In-Floor Heating System - Purge

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Old 01-26-14, 05:57 PM
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In-Floor Heating System - Purge

I have a simple in-floor system in out studio that has three zones, one working zone and two non-working zones. I'm assuming I need to purge the system to get the other two zones operating again.

Looking at the attached diagram, how do I purge this system, it seems straight forward, but I want to be sure I'm doing it right. Expansion tank says 60psi working pressure on the side of the tank, is that right??. Heat system runs at approx. 12-15psi.

Thanks

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Old 01-26-14, 06:13 PM
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Hello and welcome....

Is the air vent on your air release not working?

Whats the make and model of boiler?

Are we sure the pressure and temp gauge is accurate? ( There is a sticky at the top of this thread regarding the gauge and servicing the expansion tank)

To bleed close iso valve down by the release. Hook a hose to the release and open the zone you want to purge...Let water out the release a few times until no air comes out... You may need to add makeup water while you do this to keep the pressure up... ( Thats the water line valves)..

Cold boiler should have 12-15psi when you are done..

Some of the mod con boilers call for 18psi or more cold...
 
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Old 01-26-14, 06:25 PM
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Thanks for the fast response...

It is an electric boiler EMB-90 by Hennipin Electric.
Gauges are accurate & working.

Instructions sound good, close isolation value then open release..my next question would be how to isolate the zones. The warm water goes into a large brass manifold with three caps on the top. Removing the caps shows a brass nipple on top of a bolt head. The three warm lines go into the concrete, return into another brass manifold (no caps) and then to the iso valve.

Does it sound like I have to purge all three zones at the same time rather than one at a time?>

Thank you
 
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Old 01-26-14, 06:53 PM
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There might be (should be?) valves on the manifold that you could shut to do one at a time. You would need to be careful to know how much you turn it though since they are also used to balance flow between the loops. Or there might be actual zone valves on the manifold. A picture here would be worth a thousand words.

Patrick
 
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Old 01-26-14, 07:07 PM
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Instructions sound good, close isolation value then open release.
Wait a minute... We need to define your terminology... Is that release a boiler drain or a pressure relief valve...

Please take pics...
 
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Old 01-26-14, 07:12 PM
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Top Manifold shows where warm water goes in, below that is the return manifold, no caps on that one.
There is a small nipple on the top with a hex head below that. Does that turn to close off that heat zone?
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Old 01-26-14, 07:15 PM
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Pressure release above exp tank

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Old 01-26-14, 07:39 PM
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The release by the iso valve.... Show that...
 
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Old 01-26-14, 07:50 PM
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its a drain/hose attachment, iso valve is after the release

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Old 01-26-14, 08:10 PM
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I assume you bleed all the zones at the same time... I am not familiar with the manifold and adjustments.. I probably would not touch them...

Yes bleed from the hose bib you show and as I described...

Also is the cap loose on that air vent? If it leaks water it needs to be replaced...
 
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Old 01-26-14, 08:15 PM
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No leaks up there, it just looks that way...
So close the Iso Valve, and open the fill valves and open the drain...water and air should spurt out...do this until its just steady water, no air...then close drain...close fill valves...use air release to take out any left over air in the line??
 
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Old 01-26-14, 08:30 PM
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Yes...

Air vent/air release should always be open or cap loose.......
 
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Old 01-26-14, 08:39 PM
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lawrosa,

Does it seem odd that the system would be maintaining pressure with the feed valve closed and air in the system? I would think that the air working itself out of the system over time would cause a pressure drop with the feed valve closed.

Patrick
 
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Old 01-27-14, 06:48 AM
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On top of the expansion tank there is a green manifold with a air bleeder at the top. I loosen the cap on top but I'm not getting any spurts of air or air/water mix like I use to.
If I remove the cap and gently press down inside the nozzle with a Philips head screw driver I get spurs of air/water mix.
Is this air bleeder malfunctioning? Should I continue to press this down to bleed off air?
 
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