Oil burner works for water, but not for thermostats, please help


  #41  
Old 02-09-14, 10:40 AM
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OK, I'll try it. Thanks again for all your help.
 
  #42  
Old 02-17-14, 05:27 PM
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Clicking/buzzing in stread of flame

Hi. I had installed the new aquastat control, and it works ok. But I tried to bleed one zone as it seemed air was in the line. When I try to turn the system back on it buzzes and clicks. What should I do?
 
  #43  
Old 02-17-14, 05:51 PM
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It sounds like your circulator relay in your aquastat is clicking on and off. Take cover off aquastat and turn t-stat up and see if that's what's going on. If you have a meter and know how to use it check B1 & B2 for 110v. Check C1 & C2 for power also. That's your circ. terminals. You should have power to both of those.

Shut off power and make sure all connections are good and tight.

If all that fails, jump TT in the aquastsat bypassing the t-stat circuit and see what happens. If still nothing it's in the aquastat somewhere.

Good Luck,
 
  #44  
Old 02-17-14, 06:04 PM
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hi again Spott. The buzzing is coming from the Beckett Genisys Primary control. Is there something I can do to bypass it for now so I have heat tonight?
 
  #45  
Old 02-17-14, 06:27 PM
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Is it the control, any message, are you sure it's not the motor itself. There is a reset button on the motor also.
To bypass that control you would have to take all your line voltage wires that are tied to it and run them direct off a plug and then you still wouldn't have any safety in case something happened.
Are all your connections tight in there.

How about taking B1 &B2 off the aquastat and run off a plug and see if its the aquastat terminals or the primary. Maybe the terminals on the aquastat are bad.
 
  #46  
Old 02-17-14, 06:34 PM
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The message seems to be a cross. I think a little water may have splashed on it as I was using a bucket to drain the water in to, below the primary control. The cross symbol just stayed on and it kept buzzing when I pressed it for 15 seconds. I guess I'm going to turn it off and drain the lines to keep them from freezing tonight unless there is any thing else that you can recommend?
 
  #47  
Old 02-17-14, 06:41 PM
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Unfortunately if it is gone there's nothing safe that can be done as far as I know.
 
  #48  
Old 02-17-14, 06:42 PM
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The cross, or t also seems blurred, that's why I think water may have gotten in to it.
 
  #49  
Old 02-17-14, 06:52 PM
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If I let the control buzz/click for a while (hoping it kicks in) would that be dangerous, or hurt anything else? I've been turning it off after a few seconds, 15-20 sec.s was longest while I was pressing the reset.
 
  #50  
Old 02-17-14, 06:55 PM
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Glen,
I was looking at all the trouble messages and I couldn't even find that one, so yes, I think your right.
 
  #51  
Old 02-17-14, 07:03 PM
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I just turned it on again, it didn't buzz or do anything. I tried the reset and it worked. I guess I got lucky.
 
  #52  
Old 02-17-14, 07:11 PM
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Thanks for looking in to it. Now I'm going to wait until it turns off on it's own and see if it comes back on with out a problem. I might get a new one to have it on stand by, just in case. Thanks again.
 
  #53  
Old 05-27-14, 07:24 AM
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Setting for hot water?

Hello. My new aquastat has been has been working, but the water does not get hot unless the heat is turned up and now that the warm weather is here in NY, I don't need the heat, but do need hot water. I, of course, misplaced the aquastat manual. Could you help me and tell me what settings I should try ( I have it at 180/150 with 20 diff on both) or what else I should do?
 
  #54  
Old 05-27-14, 08:33 AM
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Hi Glen

Here is a link to the manual. Page 5 under Adjust Settings tells you how to change the various settings. I guess that you are noticing that on average the hot water is cooler on demand now that the boiler is cycling around the low limit since the heating season is over.

https://customer.honeywell.com/resou...69-1720EFS.pdf

I definitely notice that in the warmer weather on average you get colder water from the tankless coil. But I guess you could play with the low limit and low limit differential changing them a little at a time until you get the water temperature you want.

(On my L7724U I have the low limit set to 155, and even at that temp hot water is marginally acceptable. Those tankless coils sure stink! LOL)

Maybe the experts can help here.

Good luck!
 
  #55  
Old 05-27-14, 08:34 AM
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Being too lazy to read back the thread...

Can you tell us again what model aquastat you are using?

[later edit] never mind, I see that you have the L7224U, is that correct?
 

Last edited by NJT; 05-27-14 at 03:22 PM.
  #56  
Old 06-11-14, 07:43 AM
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Hi NJ Trooper. Sorry for late response, computer/internet problems Anyway thanks for finding the model # :-) I still have a problem with my hot water. It seems no matter what settings I try, the water in the shower is only hot for a short time in the morning, then when it does get hot, it gets cold soon after. I didn't have this problem before I changed to the electronic astat, why would that change have this affect on my water temp? Thanks again for any help you can give.
 
  #57  
Old 06-11-14, 10:04 AM
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What settings are you using for the

HIGH

HIGH DIFF

LOW

LOW DIFF

?
 
  #58  
Old 06-11-14, 07:38 PM
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I have it at 180/150 with 20 diff on both again. I have tried a few different settings with no luck, but I don't really know which way I should go with the settings to help me.
 
  #59  
Old 06-18-14, 04:07 AM
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Hi again NJ Trooper, I'm still getting cold water, lucky it's so hot out, lol. But could you tell me which direction I should go with the settings to try to get hotter water please?
 
  #60  
Old 06-19-14, 06:08 PM
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Hi Zoesdad. BTW thank you too for your help. I just read back the thread, and I had thought your response had come from NJ Trooper. Any way, could you recommend which settings I should try to get the hot water to work?
 
  #61  
Old 06-20-14, 12:02 PM
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Hi Glenn

Sure thing! Anything I know I learned on this forum (IMHO the best forum around. Just look at the number of people who come back with a success report. Whew! And the experts arent snooty! lol)

All I think I know is that in the summer when there is no call for heat the boiler will cycle around the low limit on the aquastat. That is, when the water temp drops below the low limit minus the low limit-differential the burner then fires to raise the water temp.

When the water temp then rises up to the low limit the burner shuts off. When the water temp cools down again the cycle repeats. I think thats about it.

The slower the water goes through the coil the hotter it will get. If it goes through the coil too fast it wont be very hot at all. So I guess you can get hotter water by raising the low limit and the low limit diff or using the water at a slower rate. I guess a slower rate isnt an option for you. I started to use the shower in my house that has one of those low-flow shower heads and what a difference. The water is plenty hot enough.

I have the L7224 also and the tankless coil. Right now my low limit =155 and my low limit diff= 15 (just double checked, why 15? I have no idea why I picked that. lol). I know I should start to adjust the low limit down because using the low flow shower head seems to have helped a lot. Using the high-flow shower head at 155/15 was just about adequate for a hot shower, thats why I have it so high.

You say that the 8124 you replaced had the low limit set at 160. Same here, I just checked my old 8124 and the previous owners had it set to 160. Thats really high but until I started to use the low-flow shower head I was thinking of actually setting my low limit up to 160 from its 155 setting! I assume the previous owners kept adjusting up until they were satisfied with the hot water or maybe the service/oil guy set it up to 160 to sell more oil? (Im a cynic. lol)

All I can think of is to adjust your low limit up to 160 and try it at that temp for a while. I guess if you reduce the low limit diff that would help also. But all of that at the expense of burning more oil as you well know.

There is a procedure to flush out the coil which should make the heat transfer more efficient. Maybe your coil (and mine) has buildup which requires such a high temp to get any decent hot water? There may be some old threads here that address the flush procedure and its effectiveness. But Im not giving mine a bath one of these days Im just getting rid of it. (I heard oil is going up again Im afraid to look at the price. lol)

I dont see how changing the aquastat could be causing your problem? Maybe its just that the 5 degrees difference in the low limit is just very noticeable to you? I think thats possible. Or maybe the low limit diff on the 8124 was smaller. I think that would make a difference also I think.lol

The other thing is that the differential on the 8124 is not used the same way as on the L7224. I think on the 8124 the low limit differential can be set so the burner cuts off a certain amount above the low limit, whereas I believe the L7224 cuts off right when it gets up to the low limit. I think that would make a difference also in the average temp of your hot water. NJ Trooper explains this better than Honeywell but this is from the 8124 manual:

At any differential setting greater than 10F (6C), the R-B
make temperature and R-W break temperature will remain the
same (control setting minus 10F (6C). The R-B break and
R-W make temperature will be the set point temperature plus
the difference between the differential setting and 10F (6C).

EXAMPLE:Set point of 140F (60C) differential set at 25F
(14C). On a temperature rise, R-B will break and R-W will
make at 155F (68C). On a temperature fall, R-B will make
and R-W will break at 130F (54C).
end of ramble lol

p.s. forgot to say my old 8124 had high limit =180 low limit = 160 and diff= 12
 
  #62  
Old 06-21-14, 05:29 AM
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Thanks zoesdad, I think your explanation is great and I will try your recommendations now. I may have tried the settings you said and changed them without giving enough of a chance before trying other settings and then got confused and didn't know to go up or down from there. Thanks again. I will let you know how it goes
 
  #63  
Old 06-21-14, 06:16 AM
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Sorry I've been busy with projects and don't have much time to participate lately...

Let's 'define' the issue a bit.

With the settings you have, in the absence of a central heat call, the boiler should be firing up and keeping itself hot around the LOW setpoint (+/- the diff).

Is it doing that?

I don't recall, and am too lazy to read the whole thread again, if you said you have a TEMPERING VALVE on the outlet of the hot water coil.

Do you?

Presuming that the boiler is in fact firing up at the low limit, if you feel the pipe coming out of the coil in the boiler, is that HOT when you are using hot water?
 
 

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