Burners not Firing on Boiler?

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  #41  
Old 02-14-14, 10:19 PM
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I changed the gauge but the expansion tank I just refilled with air. I hear something click when the boiler kicks on, I guess next time I go to turn it on I'll record it with my phone so you guys can hear what it sounds like.

Also, We have a gas fireplace that heats the upstairs pretty decently so its not like we're without heat.
 
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  #42  
Old 02-15-14, 08:21 AM
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The circulator should start when the boiler come on. If the pump is gone the boiler will shut off on limit. See what the temp is when the boiler shuts off.
With R & G jump put the metal end of a screwdriver on the pump and the other end to your ear and see if you can hear it run. If nothing then your pump is probably gone.

As I mentioned to you before and lawrosa just echoed you might want to have someone come in to get you going. It seems like a lot but its routine for a pro, and the you can take it from there. And while he's there, by now you must have a million questions for him, you can pick his brain.

Just a thought. If not we'll keep at it.
If you have the time & patience, hopefully we'll have the answers.

Good Luck,
 
  #43  
Old 02-15-14, 05:04 PM
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Okay the pump does make noise and i can feel it and hear it, and it gets very warm.

Heres my other problem. When trying to bleed one zone it works fine, but when I try the other very little water comes out, it basically dribles out. I'm pretty sure the zone valve is good because when I turn the boiler on and manually open the zone valves both pipes above the zone valves get hot, so it is allowing water to pass when the boilers on....

(I have no idea why yesterday when the boiler kicked on the pipes above the zone valves stayed cool, but today they get hot?

Also I can take a video because this is strange. When the boilers on the temp stays the same basically has when the boilers off. But when the boiler shutsoff it jumps way up. Any ideas?
 
  #44  
Old 02-15-14, 05:18 PM
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If you used the same procedure when bleeding both zones and one dribbles you may have a frozen pipe somewhere.
On the one that dribbles out urn your t-stat down and disconnect #1 wire on the zone valve and put it on manual.
This way when the other zone calls for heart water will run through both zones until the other zone thaws, if you can't find the frozen pipe if that's what it is.

As far as the temp rising in the boiler when it shuts off, it may be residual heat.
 
  #45  
Old 02-15-14, 05:27 PM
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So what should I check for that causes the boiler to shut off?
 
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Old 02-15-14, 07:41 PM
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NJ Trooper, any thoughts?
 
  #47  
Old 02-15-14, 07:47 PM
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Your not telling us the temp readings when it kicks off.. It may just be making temperature.
Lack of circulation?
Aquastat settings need to be checked?
Zone valve wiring maybe incorrect?
Transformer replacement?
air bound"
gauge working and proper water pressure?
Is there water in it?


etc, etc , etc...
 
  #48  
Old 02-15-14, 08:13 PM
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Okay wehn I get home I'll get you the information you asked for.

But just so you know the Zone valve isnt even wired at the moment haha so it can't be that. And I'm pretty sure theres water in the boiler.
 
  #49  
Old 02-16-14, 09:17 AM
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NJ Trooper, any thoughts?
Yes... and if they differ from the other guys I'll say so.
 
  #50  
Old 02-17-14, 04:21 AM
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Okay something I just noticed...

None of the pipes above the boiler seem to get warm/hot at all unless i turn the fast fill valve on and have it build pressure (Im guessing the pump might not be working and the increase in pressure is forcing some of the hot water up the pipes, but not around the zones?)

Anyway, heres a video showing how the temp rises and everything.

But first a play by play-

At 10 seconds you can hear the boiler burners kick on.

At 2 minutes the temp finally starts to rise (dont know if thats a normal time)

Now somewhere after 3 minutes I think the temp rises pretty rapidly.

At 4:58 you can hear the boiler shutoff and its temp is at 140-150?

Then after the boiler shutsoff it jumps all the way to 170? Is that normal?

You can see for yourselfs, again thanks for the help. Gh - YouTube
 
  #51  
Old 02-17-14, 07:35 AM
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By the looks of the video there's no circulation. You're either air bound or the pump isn't working. If you think it's the pump, change it before you proceed further.
Add water to get the water moving is adding insult to injury. You're only adding more air to the system preventing circulation.
 
  #52  
Old 02-17-14, 03:43 PM
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Well now heres another problem. When I try to bleed the lines one zone water dribbles out then nothing and the other it came rushing out for maybe 15-20 seconds then nothing else came....any ideas ?
 
  #53  
Old 02-17-14, 05:12 PM
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If you've got pressure going in and nothing coming out it sounds like frozen pipe syndrome. You might not want to wait 2 yrs. until you fire this thing up once you get it going.

This is giving you 2 yrs. of grief just getting it back on line.

On the brighter side, look at all the knowledge you're gaining and we're half way through February. There's a light at the end of the tunnel.

Good Luck,
 
  #54  
Old 02-17-14, 06:28 PM
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There's a light at the end of the tunnel.
That's the train Spott! RUN!
 
  #55  
Old 02-17-14, 08:51 PM
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So I guess we'll see where I'm at in a month/month and a half haha. If it doesnt work when its warm enough for the pipes to have unfroze ill be back! haha.

Anyway, when that time comes i'll let you all know what happened, thanks for all the help you guys been.
 
  #56  
Old 02-18-14, 08:04 AM
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Duffy,
We'll see you in the spring,

Be Well,
 
  #57  
Old 02-18-14, 08:22 PM
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Okay guys, good and bad news.

I was able to bleed the lines today because it was a bit warmer. (however I made a mistake and only did a 5 gallon bucket from each zone...have to do more tomorrow)

After I bleed the lines the boiler stayed on for a good half hour! It circulated to both zones, but I found somthing odd. In one of the zones only some of the base boards got heat. So I went down to look and saw the same zone that was only partially getting heat had these

See how there above one zone? It seems to me that it allows you to allow/not allow water to certain parts of the zones, amd I correct in thinking this? So I'm guess I want to open both of them? (remember how I said my sisters EX messed with a bunch of stuff, wouldn't suprize me if he monkeyed with these also.

Has soon has I turned one the boiler shut off about 20 seconds later so they do somthing haha
 
  #58  
Old 02-18-14, 08:37 PM
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They are just stops. The flat should be parallel with the direction of flow. Or position the flats vertical...

Horizontal is closed...
 
  #59  
Old 02-18-14, 08:42 PM
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Without seeing anything more it looks like those are your shutoffs for the 2 zones. They should both be open.(going same way as pipe).
 
  #60  
Old 02-19-14, 07:05 PM
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Okay guys....yet5 another question haha.

When I bleed the lines (no matter how much I seem to do) I keep getting bupples constantly like this from each zone IMG 0378 - YouTube

Is there just a lot of air because of how long it sat for? Or is there another cause?

When I bleed the lines I keep the PSI above 20 but try for 25 and only do one zone at a time. (Also I don't know if it matters but I dont have city water, I have a well)

Also, When I fire the boiler up the water going through the pipes makes this noise IMG 0379 - YouTube Is that normal or is that air in the pipes?
 
  #61  
Old 02-19-14, 08:31 PM
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Where you bleeding from?

Take better all around pics of your system,...
 
  #62  
Old 02-19-14, 11:51 PM
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Thanks be the lord! I let the boiler run for about 5 hours straight because some of the baseboards wernt getting heat and i thought it might be a frozen pipe somewhere. I woke up just now am thought it was a little warm and its was my beautiful 72 degrees with all the baseboard getting there heat haha!

I still want to bleed the lines properly tho just to be safe so I will post pics later.

You guys have all been a great help through this, especially Spott, NJ Trooper, lawrosa and RDSTEAM

There was also another Mod who I PM'ed a few times but cant remember his name, sorry
 
  #63  
Old 02-20-14, 10:56 AM
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Duffy,
It's been a long road but it must be nice to wake up and not have to scrape the windows.

Be Well,
 
  #64  
Old 02-28-14, 11:56 AM
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Okay I've been tinkering with this for a few days after I got the parts I needed and I need help...again.

I replaced the transformer and it is sending the 24HAC (think thats what you call it) but I still have to open the zone valves manually to get heat. I'm 90% sure I wired them correctly because I did one wire at a time while unwiring the old ones...so it woulf of been hard for me to screw that up haha. Any ideas?
 
  #65  
Old 02-28-14, 01:38 PM
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haha,
How did you wire them and what do you have. Pics would be good.
If I remember, didn't you say someone messed up the wiring to begin with. I hope you didn't follow his wiring.
 
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