Taco SR506 - Question about why certain zone LEDs are not on as expected

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Old 02-15-14, 04:29 PM
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Taco SR506 - Question about why certain zone LEDs are not on as expected

We have a Taco SR506 switching relay where the green power indicator LED is on and the LED for zone 6 is on, however, the LEDs for zone 1 and 2 are not on as expected. Any thoughts on what the issue is and how to fix it would be appreciated.
 
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Old 02-15-14, 05:00 PM
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the green power indicator LED is on and the LED for zone 6 is on, however, the LEDs for zone 1 and 2 are not on as expected.
Green power LED should be on, I think you know that...

The zone LED will only light when a zone valve opens, so are you saying that the thermostats are calling for heat and that the zone valves aren't opening?

What is connected to zone 6 ? Do you have an indirect water heater on that 'channel', and is it calling for heat ? and is the PRIORITY switch in the ON position?

Something must have happened to make you go and look at the LEDs, tell us what that was.
 
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Old 02-15-14, 05:16 PM
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Trooper,SR506 is all circs...ZVC is for zone valves...br,the 506 has a priority switch on zone 6 usually used for an indirect fired water heater...the priority "on" setting will not allow the other zones to come on untill the priority is satisfied.
 
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Old 02-15-14, 06:22 PM
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SR506 is all circs...ZVC is for zone valves.
Yeah... duhhhhhh... I knew that! I'm not myself the past few days.

Still though, what you say, and I said, about priority, works same for either SR or ZVC and I suspect that's what he's seeing.

Do need to know why he looked at it, kinda says there's a problem that made him look.
 
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Old 02-16-14, 04:53 PM
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Thanks for the quick reply. I meant to mention originally that the water baseboard heater is not working which is why we went to take a look at the SR506. Specifically, when we set the thermostat on for heat, all we hear is a quick short click from the thermostat but the baseboard heater does not work. We checked the SR506 and see that only the zone 6 LED is on. Also, the PRIORITY switch is in the ON position. In case this information is also useful, we are using an indirect-fired water heater with a gas boiler.
 
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Old 02-16-14, 05:32 PM
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Also, I meant to mention, when the water is cold, it takes about 45 minutes to 1 hour to make it hot. That is not an issue. However, after the water gets hot to a certain temperature, you can see that the boiler is slowing down going to standby and zone 6 is still on. After a few seconds, the boiler starts and looks like it wants to heat the water again for 10 to 15 minutes and again it goes to standby. So it repeats this where it stays on standby for 2 minutes and starts to heat the water again. Because the boiler continues to go on for around every 15 minutes and we do not use up all the hot water that quickly, we turn off the power to the boiler with a switch upstairs to avoid damaging the boiler and anything else since we do not know what is wrong with it. Normally, when the water gets hot, the LED for zone 6 is supposed to go off, but it does not and the message center on the boiler says "standby" for a minute or two (so it recognizes the water is very hot already) and then it gets ready to turn on again as if the water is not hot anymore. So, the only time the zone 6 LED comes off is when there is no power.
 
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Old 02-16-14, 06:14 PM
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Sound like a faulty t stat on the indirect... Whats the make and model?

Is the water very very hot?
 
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Old 02-16-14, 06:58 PM
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Yeah, sounds like it... if indirect constantly calling and priority on, then no heat to home.

What you can do in the meantime is turn priority OFF and at least you will get heat to the home.

But that won't solve the problem of the indirect constantly calling for heat.
 
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Old 02-16-14, 07:00 PM
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But that won't solve the problem of the indirect constantly calling for heat.



Disconnect the t stat wire to the 506 going to the indirect . Only connect when you need hot water...
 
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Old 02-16-14, 07:03 PM
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Disconnect the t stat wire to the 506 going to the indirect
Yeah, that will also tell for sure if the problem is the indirect or the Taco panel itself.

If zone 6 goes off when wire is disconnected, you know it's the indirect, if it stays on, you know it's the Taco panel.
 
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Old 02-18-14, 06:17 PM
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Thank you both for your responses. Sorry for the lack of knowledge here. I can see the wire inside the thermostat that is on the SuperStor Indirect-Fired Water Heater. Can I disconnect the thermostat wire (from the Honeywell Thermostat Model # L4080B 1295)? I can see the wires going to the thermostat on the indirect. Due to my lack of knowledge, I don't know which one of the wires inside the 506 is for the indirect. Also, the water is at least 190F because it looks like the thermostat on the indirect is around 190. Thanks again for your help.
 
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Old 02-18-14, 06:55 PM
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I don't know which one of the wires inside the 506 is for the indirect.
Wouldn't it be zone 6 ? But yes, you can disconnect one of the wires on the aquastat on the indirect tank.

the water is at least 190F because it looks like the thermostat on the indirect is around 190.
I think you're lucky nobody has ended up in the emergency room!
 
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Old 02-18-14, 06:58 PM
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By the way, what IS the setting on the L4080 aquastat on the indirect?

While you are at it, what is the setting of the temperature dial on the boiler itself?
 
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Old 03-21-14, 04:17 PM
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Sorry for the delayed response.

The boiler does not seem to have a problem because when we turn off zone 6, the heater works. So, we believe the L4080 aquastat on the Superstor tank which is connected to zone 6 is not working correctly. Also, when we got the boiler a few years ago we did not replace the Superstor tank. In any case, the L4080 aquastat is set to 180 degrees.

When we put the priority switch off, zone 6 was working, but when we disconnected the wire to zone 6, zone 6 stopped and then the heat started.

We really thank both of you for all your help, time and quick responses as we have been able to use the heater again after a very long time with your help.

By the way, for the L4080 aquastat, should that be easy for us to replace ourselves? Also, would you know where we can purchase a new one?

Thanks again.
 
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Old 03-21-14, 04:35 PM
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BR, don't be a stranger! Stop back and get your answers... we probably could have solved this issue weeks ago.

First things first... TURN DOWN THE 4080 ON THE INDIRECT TO NO HIGHER THAN 140F!... there is NO REASON WHATSOEVER for it to be that high! Seriously... someone can end up in the burn unit of the emergency room with water that hot!

It's VERY possible that having that set so high is the root of your entire problem. If you have the indirect temperature set that high, it's very likely that it WILL constantly call for heat because the boiler can not get hot enough to get the indirect that hot. An indirect aquastat should NEVER be set any higher than 20 degrees below the HIGH LIMIT setting of the boiler.

The bottom line is that nothing may be 'broken' at all.

Turn the 4080 down to 140, hook up the wires again and try it. I think you will be surprised.

Please tell us what the temperature settings are on the BOILER as well.
 
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Old 03-22-14, 04:24 PM
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Thanks for the quick response. The 4080 was adjusted to 140F and we connected the wires back together. However, so far, only the zone 6 light is on where the wire is connected to that. So right now we have hot water but no heat. Also, the temperature on the boiler is 180F. So, it shows that the central heat is set to 180F and the domestic water is also set to 180F.

Thanks
 
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Old 03-22-14, 04:37 PM
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Turn the 4080 all the way down now... if zone 6 does not go off then you have either a bad 4080 or a short circuit in the wires between the zone 6 terminals on the Taco and the 4080.

You can do a simple test to determine if it's the 4080 or the wires by disconnecting them at the 4080 end, leaving them connected to zone 6 in the Taco...

Once you're sure it's not the wires and you do in fact have a bad 4080, then you know you need to replace that.
 
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Old 03-22-14, 04:40 PM
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I meant to add this as part of my last posting too. That is, when zone 6 is working the boiler keeps showing the temperature going up and down a few times and then it goes to stand by for a few seconds and then starts repeating going up and down and going back to stand by for about 5 to 6 minutes. Then it starts working until the water gets hot for about 45 minutes, then after 45 minutes to one hour when the water gets hot it goes to stand by for a couple minutes and starts demanding hot water again so we have to turn it off ourselves.

Also, temperatures I gave for the boiler are from the message board on the boiler which also shows the "Setpoint" as 180F. However, how can we tell what the HIGH LIMIT setting is on the boiler?

Thanks again
 
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Old 03-22-14, 04:54 PM
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Thank you very much for your latest quick response. We did turn the 4080 all the way down but zone 6 did not go off. So, we did as you said and disconnected the wire on the 4080 end and then zone 6 went off and zone 1 came on which is for the heater. So, just to make sure, does this mean the 4080 is bad?

Thanks
 
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Old 03-22-14, 05:35 PM
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Yes, I agree it's pretty conclusive at this point that the 4080 is bad.

I believe that with that type of aquastat control that you DO need to DRAIN the water heater before changing the control.
 
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Old 03-22-14, 05:37 PM
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from the message board on the boiler which also shows the "Setpoint" as 180F. However, how can we tell what the HIGH LIMIT setting is on the boiler?
Sorry I missed this question.

The 'setpoint' is the same as the 'high limit', and 180 is appropriate.
 
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Old 03-22-14, 05:56 PM
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Thanks again very much for your quick responses and for confirming the 4080 is bad. However, do you mind if I ask why the water heater has to be drained? Also, would you be able to recommend where we can get a replacement or do you recommend we get another type of aquastat that would be better and still compatible? If so, would you know where we can purchase that too?
 
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Old 03-22-14, 06:45 PM
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However, do you mind if I ask why the water heater has to be drained?
Don't mind at all! The 4080 is typically installed directly into a tapping on the water heater and not into what we call an 'immersion well', which is a sealed tube that the sensing element goes into.

HOWEVER............... Looking at the manuals for the SuperStor SSU models of water heater, it appears that there may in fact be an immersion well that the temperature control is installed into.

(in fact, the more I think about it, the more I suspect that it IS IN FACT installed in an immersion well and should be very easy to change)

I can't tell you any further without seeing it... would you be able to take a clear photograph that shows how the control is installed into the water heater?

would you be able to recommend where we can get a replacement or do you recommend we get another type of aquastat that would be better and still compatible? If so, would you know where we can purchase that too?
I've bought stuff from these guys before:

Honeywell Aquastat Control L4080B1295. Honeywell Aquastats L4080B1295
 
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Old 03-23-14, 05:00 PM
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Thanks again for your response and to the link to the site for ordering a new L4080. Also, we were able to take some pictures of the L4080 and the water heater and those are included here: https://drive.google.com/folderview?...G8&usp=sharing. We also took the screw off the right side of the L4080 so you can see a closeup view of the connection to the water heater. In that photo, you will see there is a skinny piece of metal that is partially blue-green in color which is connected to the water heater. Do you know how we can disconnect that? If there is a way to disconnect that, then would it still be necessary to drain the water heater?

By the way, on a separate note, would it be possible for us to install a separate regular gas hot water heater that does not need to work with the boiler? We want to see if we can help increase the lifetime of the boiler by only using it on the cold days when heat is needed and then only using the separately installed gas hot water heater whenever we need hot water. So we would not need to use the boiler as much. If you can let us know what you think about that too we would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks again for all your help.
 

Last edited by br2001; 03-23-14 at 05:15 PM.
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Old 03-24-14, 05:48 AM
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In that photo, you will see there is a skinny piece of metal that is partially blue-green in color which is connected to the water heater. Do you know how we can disconnect that?
You do not need to drain the water heater to change this aquastat control, but there is a problem it would seem.

That skinny piece of metal is known as a 'capillary tube' and on the end of that tube, down in the well is the 'sensing bulb'.

That tube and sensing bulb should slide out of the well with little to no resistance.

The fact that there is 'blue-green' corrosion on that tube and you apparently are unable to pull the bulb from the well tells us that 'something' is going on down inside that well that has caused corrosion and the bulb to get stuck in the well.

You could try spraying some penetrating lubricant down inside the well to see if it will loosen the stuck bulb.

If you can't get the bulb out you will be forced to have to drain the water heater and replace the immersion well in addition to the control.
 
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Old 03-24-14, 05:19 PM
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Thanks for the quick response again. As for the well and the sensing bulb, do you have a picture(s) or diagrams that show those parts labeled? Sorry for the lack of knowledge. Thanks again.
 
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Old 03-24-14, 05:42 PM
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All the wells are the same part # as I see on the ss site... # PMW-3SENP-1 ss well.

I found a diagram of the solar superstore that shows the part on page 24.. #11 in the diagram,, Part is about $70 bucks...

http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0LEV...UowcSeQysPREk-
 
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