Looking for Hot Water from Domestic Coil


Old 02-16-14, 04:42 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2014
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Looking for Hot Water from Domestic Coil

I have a Peerless Oil Fired Furnace Series WBV with a domestic hot water coil part number X1019R. The furnace is about 6 years old, the coil is about 3 years old. The Honey well controls are set at 160 degress low limit, 180 degress high limit. The mixing valve is a ball valve, there is no specific setting just set by "feel". When the mixing valve is opened just the slightest amount at best there is luke warm water. The pipe coming from the coil is hot, until it reaches the "T" where the cold water mixes in. No matter how long hot water is run, the pipe above the "T" never gets warm. With the valve is closed there is hot water but volume is low do to flow restricter on coil. A couple plumbers have looked at set-up and all say there is nothing wrong. If that is so why don't I have hot water??? Any help or suggestion are greatly appreciated.
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Old 02-16-14, 07:32 AM
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 80
First of all, if you don't have hot water, then "there's nothing wrong" is code-speak for "I don't care enough to diagnose." Clearly, there is something wrong.

Did this just start? Have you had decent hot water/volume over the last few years? Has anything changed in your setup? With the mixing valve closed (ie. "unmixed hot water"), do you know what the temp is coming from the tap?

Assuming you are getting water out of the coil at a reasonable temp (TBD), and you get lukewarm water when the mixing valve is opened just a little bit, it would seem to me that you have too little (or not hot enough) hot water mixing with too much cold water. In other words, the volume of hot water is being overwhelmed with the volume of cold water.

NJT will certainly ask for photos, so break out your camera!
Old 02-16-14, 08:45 AM
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Yeah... pictures might be helpful...

A BALL VALVE? I didn't know that Bozo's license was still active? Gosh, I hope that you didn't do that! That would be awkward, wouldn't it?

Ball valves should never be used for 'throttling' purposes. They are nearly impossible to adjust properly. Their design dictates that 90% of the throttling occurs in about 10% of the valve opening. Since you are only dealing with 90 of handle movement to start with, it means that you have about 10 of EFFECTIVE handle travel to deal with. It is VERY difficult to move the handle a half a degree...

That said, I agree with CD... the guys you called either haven't got a clue or just don't want to do what needs to be done.

There is a process whereby valves are installed on the piping either side of the coil to isolate it from the home. There are two other drain valves installed on the coil side of the isolation valves to enable an acid solution to be pumped through the coil and dissolve the mineral deposits that form on the inside of the coil that limits both flow and heat transfer.

Or, the coil can be replaced. $$$

Or, you can install a real water heater.

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