Issue... baseboard pipes

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Old 02-27-14, 07:07 PM
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Issue... baseboard pipes

I own a condo with baseboard heat. Recently noticed the heat wasn't circulating through any pipes. I was the only unit owner with an issue so I had a plumber examine things and he replaced a zone valve head (its a taco 571-2). Seemed like an easy enough thing to replace. It just twisted off and had two wires attached. Anyways my problem of no pipes getting hot was solved by this... For a while.

Its been about a week and a half, and what I'm seeing is the pipe that zone valve is on gets plenty hot still, but pipe on the adjacent wall only gets lukewarm and the pipe in my bedroom doesn't get warm at all. If I go to the zone valve and push down the manual lever, only then do all the pipes get hot. I think something must be going wrong with the vlve or tstat.

Is it worth my money and time away from work to get the plumber back in to examine the valve itself, or is it possible the head is already damaged again? If its just the head I can probably replace it myself now that I've seen it done.

About my setup... Boiler is in the boiler room... No access to it . All I know is it is a new (installed Oct 2013) high efficiency boiler. Tstat is a Honeywell rth2410. Two red wires connected to it at the rh and w terminals. Valve is a Taco 571-2 with a brand new head.

Any insight appreciated!
 
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Old 02-27-14, 07:14 PM
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Do you own a multimeter?

Does the plumber have one?

Do either of you know how to use it?

When the thermostat is calling for heat, you should measure 24VAC between terminals 1 and 2 of the zone valve. If you do NOT, the zone valve won't open. The transformer that supplies this voltage may be in your condo somewhere... or could be in the boiler room.

You HAVE changed the batteries in the thermostat, right?
 
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Old 02-27-14, 07:57 PM
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Hi there! Thanks for replying. I don't own a multimeter but can easily get my hands on one (font regularly need to usebone). I can't speak for the plumber but I can use it. I think the plumber did some roundabout analysis by feeling the pipe for warmth to either side of the valve. I believe the transformer is adjacent to my breaker panel. I'll check the voltage on the valve terminals... batteries are fresh. I'll advise on the voltage reading. Anything else I should validate besides voltage? If the voltage checks out... does that indicate a valve issue? Thanks for your time.
 
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Old 02-27-14, 08:07 PM
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(font regularly need to usebone)
That sounds kinda personal!!

If the voltage checks out... does that indicate a valve issue?
Well, let's say that it could, not an absolute, at least not yet.

There is no wire on terminal 3 of the valve I believe, not in this application, correct?

If with the thermostat calling for heat you find low or no voltage between 1 and 2 then go to that transformer and measure the voltage on the terminals there.
 
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Old 02-28-14, 03:12 PM
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Remember to set the multimeter to VAC, or volts AC.
Tstat terminals should read 24VAC when not calling for heat, and about 0VAC when calling for heat.

Low voltage side of transformer should always read about 24vac give or take. As trooper said, turn the tstat on so it is calling for heat and see if the transformer is still supplying about 24vac when loaded down. The other side of that transformer will be at 120vac, so be careful you don't electrocute yourself!
 
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Old 03-04-14, 07:13 PM
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Hi all,

So I borrowed a multimeter. I'm reading 25.3 vac at the transformer secondary, and at the tstat (with the faceplate off). Terminal 1&2 of the zone valve reads 22.8 vac while tstat calls for heat and 0 when not called for. I didn't check the primary on the transformer... Didn't want to take it out of the wall since the secondary voltage was about right.

Also, since the last post the issue deteriorated. I was at least getting heat in the pipe the zone valve is on via the tstat. That pipe now get nothing via tstat as well. Only way to get heat is the manual switch on the zone valve. Seems my set up chewed through a valve head in less than three weeks.

Is 22.8 vac enough voltage for the valve head to do the job, or is the voltage difference between the tstat and zone valve enough to cause an issue? Should i continue exploring electrical issues as the cause? Thanks all!
 
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