How to eliminate a tankless water heater external to the boiler?

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Old 03-01-14, 05:50 AM
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How to eliminate a tankless water heater external to the boiler?

Hello all,
I moved into a new a house last year and now have a slew of new problems . My hot water is from an external tankless coil off my (ancient) oil fired boiler.

I hate it! When it's working, it's fine, but more often than not we have ice cold showers. I realize that it can probably be fixed, but I'm also not a fan of running the boiler year round for hot water. I would like to eliminate the tankless and install an electric hot water heater - perhaps a hybrid.

Anyway, I would like to know how to eliminate the coil. I don't mean to physically remove it from (outside) the boiler, but I want to free it from the domestic water. Can I just cut the water lines from it? Do I need to change/eliminate a controller?

Pics to follow.
 
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Old 03-01-14, 07:03 AM
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Old 03-01-14, 07:07 AM
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Whats you ability to replace that boiler before we suggest anything???
 
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Old 03-01-14, 07:26 AM
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That will hopefully be done over the summer - but I still don't want a tankless coil. And I'd like to take a hot shower before then
 
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Old 03-01-14, 07:31 AM
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possibly we can adjust the settings for you..

Open this black box and take a pic. And tell us what settings are in there...

Warning High voltage so look but dont touch. You can be killed...


 
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Old 03-01-14, 07:34 AM
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Also what does the pressure and temp gauge read on the boiler?

Take a few more pics. Pics of the circulator and what not..

Also what type of heat emmitters in the home? Cast iron? Copper finned tube baseboard?
 
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Old 03-01-14, 07:49 AM
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photobucket won't load at the moment, but it's set to 140. I'll add the pic when I can.

However, even if this thing could save me $10,000 a year - I don't want it.
 
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Old 03-01-14, 08:02 AM
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Understand you just want rid of it, but let's explore something that might get you a hot shower...

In the above pic, have you done anything with that valve that has the black knob? That's a tempering valve that prevents scalding water from entering the domestic hot system. That valve might be not working or adjusted wrongly. Tell us what you've tried with that, if anything.

You can install a stand-alone electric sure... basically you would cut the domestic piping from the 'ever-hot' water heater and leave those connections UNSEALED. You can slip caps over the pipe ends, but do NOT solder them on.

The boiler will still fire up on it's own though, so you will have some control wiring to work on.

Until we know everything about that wiring, we can't suggest changes to that.
 
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Old 03-01-14, 08:05 AM
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When you run the hot water, is the pipe coming from the TOP connection of the tank to the MIDDLE connection of the tempering valve HOT?

Is the pipe coming out of the TOP connection of the tempering valve COLD?
 
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Old 03-01-14, 08:08 AM
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It's a single zone mono-flo system feeding copper finned tube in wall convectors.





 
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Old 03-01-14, 08:21 AM
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I have not changed any settings on anything. Sometimes we get a perfectly fine hot shower, but it's hit or miss. I've tried turning the thermostat down just before a shower. I've tried raising the temp a degree and waiting for the boiler to shut down (a pain in the arse). Doesn't matter - sometimes hot water and sometimes colder than arctic water during an ice age.

I should mention also, that the shower is the most remote from the boiler. And, even when I do have hot water, if someone runs the dishwasher, or runs the sink water for a bit, then the shower suffers.

I haven't checked the pipe temps to answer whether they're hot or cold. My wife just finished a hot shower a few minutes ago (she had turned down the thermostat beforehand). The top pipe from the coil is warm/hot, while the output from the tempering valve is warm (not hot enough that I can't hold it indefinitely).

It seems that if there is hot water and there is a call for heat, that the heat take priority and no more hot water.
 

Last edited by wolfcry911; 03-01-14 at 08:40 AM.
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