Dealing with my Electro zone valve controls

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Old 06-09-14, 10:02 AM
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Dealing with my Electro zone valve controls

Around January I posted about some issues with leaking over flow. Got that repaired but also noticed my zone control valve was in the open position and leaky. Also figured my pressure regulator was hosed up. So.. now time to deal with these two items.

What I have for zone controls is something called "Electro Zone" and it takes AC and steps it down to 20 volt DC (maybe 24 I dont recall). The reason for my post today is what do I need to do in order to remove this? I need to drain the system I assume? I also need to replace the pressure regulator and assume I need to drain? Anything special I need to do? Any gotchas I should worry about or look for?? Thanks!!

FYI - My plan is to open up/remove the zone control and see if I cant scrounge some replacement parts. The company went out of business somewhere near 1973 best I can tell so I really need to get creative. Barring that, I will need advice on how to install new ones, whats best, those types of things. I figured these been on there for something like 44 years without having an issue. Maybe rebuild would be better than new.
 
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Old 06-09-14, 10:23 AM
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I'm not the forum pro here but I don't recognize those valves. Can you shoot and post a picture for us ?

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
 
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Old 06-09-14, 11:48 AM
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I am not able to post image. The button is greyed out. But here is the old thread from the winter. It has the info and images there.

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...iler-area.html
 
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Old 06-09-14, 12:02 PM
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I extracted this pic from that thread. I haven't found any replacement parts avaiable for them.
Maybe the forum pro, Trooper, has an idea. Otherwise you may end up having to change them.

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Old 06-09-14, 12:27 PM
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The process for this is to drain so water does not spill all over I assume? I can drain out pressure relief or that is a bad idea?
 
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Old 06-09-14, 02:18 PM
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You would need to shut the water supply to the system and drain it. It appears that there are also drain fittings on the bottoms of those valves too. There is usually a drain valve located in the system for draining it. Sometimes there is a valve on the boiler itself.
 
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Old 06-11-14, 12:38 PM
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Ripped into this finally. Got the pressure regulator off and one fitting was filled with crudd. Should be fine putting it back on.

The zone valve is a different story. Not what I was expecting. I am not sure how this works but looks very simple. Not able to post image. Can a moderator enable me to post images?

Essentially this thing is almost like copper windings but looks and feels like heavy duty paper. A large cylinder shape with a hole in the middle. I thought there would be a motor in there. No such luck..

Someone kindly reply when I can post images. Thanks.

Edit: some reason when editing I can post images.
 
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Last edited by Dan.NY; 06-11-14 at 01:03 PM.
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Old 06-11-14, 06:40 PM
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When you are going to be adding pics..... go the bottom of the screen and click on "Go Advanced" then you add the pics in that editor.

That's a coil of wire and when placed over it's appropriate holder and powered...... it becomes a powerful electro magnet and draws the plunger in to open the valve.

The newer style zone valves are an actual motor.
 
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Old 06-17-14, 06:13 AM
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Does anyone have any idea where I may get a replacement coil or if its possible to fix this coil? I am hesitant to start taking it apart. I suspect there is a break in the windings somewhere and it I could find that I could solder it up and be in good shape. ANy input from the pros on this one?? Thank You all!!!

OH also.. when going about finding a replacement, what to ask? I see there are different ratings, etc. I do not know about this. I dont think I will find a replacement, but hoping to find something similar from a different manufacturer.
 
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Old 06-17-14, 11:59 AM
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After some investigating I found a place locally that might rewind/repair for me. Ill investigate that but in the meantime I figured before I condemn this coil I should troubleshoot to make sure. Any pointers?? Ill be checking back here. thanks.
 
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Old 06-17-14, 03:24 PM
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Personally, I would replace the zone valves. By the time you pay somebody to rewind them, you would likely be money ahead.

The blue-green deposits around the valves is a sure tell-tale sign of leakage.
 
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Old 06-17-14, 04:51 PM
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Did you check the coil with an ohmmeter for continuity ?

I wouldn't spend the money to rewind them either. I'd replace the valve with a combination where the motor is replaceable.
 
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Old 06-17-14, 05:08 PM
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Dan, quit messing with those antiques and replace with modern zone valves.
 
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Old 06-18-14, 05:09 AM
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Thanks for the responses. I should be able to get the coil rewound for 150.00 . Only one coil is messed up. I also cannot simply replace one coil. This system is DC not AC. I also would need to sweat copper, which would be a new thing for me. Not impossible, but not the easiest route. Its not clear to me if I can have 3 new valves and the electrical piece installed for 150.00. Can anyone comment about the prices? If so maybe Ill spring for new.

Yes, they are antiques but they have worked well for 44 years without anyone messing with them. I spoke to a tech like some of you guys on here and he told me he puts in honeywell almost exclusively as the motors are easy to replace. He said he has steady work and replaces them about every 2 years. Is this accurate or a bunch of garbage? I thought it would be better to keep something that does not need replacing every 2 years.

I have not ohmed it yet. That test slipped my mind. Thanks for jogging my memory. I did read 24 volts going out of the electrical box so figured it was likely the coil. Ill OHM tonight.

About the leaking and green color. Usually, in non furnace applications, when I see this I slather on some blue RTV sealant around the leak point. In this case I would remove/unscrew the bottom piece that is likely leaking, slather the RTV, close up and call it a day. Even though you guys are saying replace, does this sound like a good idea, if I keep the antiques? Or is this not going to work?

Thanks guys. I do appreciate the advice and info.
 
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Old 06-18-14, 08:57 AM
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Nuts - Zone valves don't need replacing every two years or at any other fixed interval. I think you are just futzing around. Fix it right.

No, fixing water leaks with silicon RTV is not correct.
 
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Old 08-19-14, 11:38 AM
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I finally have everything in order to move forward. I was able to track down new gaksets, which seem to fit correctly. Also got my volt meter on the coil and ohm'ed it. Coil is fine. Had to replace a drain valve and a few other things (my pressure regulator thread). took me a while to get here.

I am going to refill with water tonight and see if anything leaks. Hopefully not, then turn on the zones and start taking some readings. I know you guys all wanted me to replace the valves, but I cant and need to move forward with what I have.

Two things..
1) Since the system is empty of water, I need to bleed air out correct? What is the process for this? Turn on the drain valves on the different zones until no more air comes out?

2) WHat next with the defective zone. power going into it, but not opening properly. What to check next??


Thanks for any help.
 
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Old 08-19-14, 11:25 PM
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2) WHat next with the defective zone. power going into it, but not opening properly. What to check next??
Dan..... didn't we cover this already ????
You are basically on your own trying to rebuild/repair the old valve.
 
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Old 08-20-14, 06:39 AM
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Valve itself is OK. No need to do anything with the coil. Either signal going in or something coming out. Since this is the case, I figured someone may have some words of wisdom as to what else I could look at. Thanks to all who replied already.

Can someone give me an idea of the process of bleeding air out? Or is it simply open the valves until water comes out? Thanks.
 
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