replacing tankless tapping plate gasket


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Old 06-15-14, 11:05 AM
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replacing tankless tapping plate gasket

Now that I've switched my system over to cold start (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...p-setting.html), the gasket for my (unused) tankless front plate leaks every time the boiler cools down. Replacing the gasket is step 1, but two other concerns: the liklihood of bolts breaking during extraction, and the rust/delamination my front plate has due to damage from this leak. Can't do anything about the former until it happens, but for the plate, which looks like this now:



I'm thinking it may need replacing. But, I expect this may also require replacing the tankless coil as well, i.e. it's one piece? I'd rather just get a "blank" plate with no coil, just a spot for the aquastat/temp probe. Is any of this accurate and possible?

thanks!
 
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Old 06-15-14, 11:15 AM
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A good plumbing supply store would have or get you what you need.Just a guess=a Peerless.
 
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Old 06-15-14, 11:21 AM
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Oops, yes forgot to mention that. Peerless WBV-03. Thanks
 
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Old 06-15-14, 11:34 AM
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If the boiler side is rusted up bad, a wire wheel and form a gasket in a tube helps out along with rubber gasket. New bolts also.
 
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Old 06-15-14, 11:39 AM
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Thanks, good advice.

From my reading here: Heating Help it sounds like blank plates are used. Also several recommendations in that thread not to replace with bolts but rather install studs with loctite and then put nuts on the outside. Seems like a wise idea to avoid future seized bolt problems. I guess getting the old bolts out will be the biggest challenge here.
 
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Old 06-15-14, 11:45 AM
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I would just use never seize and bolts but your call.
 
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Old 06-16-14, 05:50 AM
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Looks like I need Peerless part # 99812 for the blank plate. The OEM gasket is # 51800, but I've heard recommendations to get a better aftermarket gasket. Anyone have recommendations there?
 
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Old 06-16-14, 04:16 PM
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Ordered both parts locally today. Will attempt this job myself. Hopefully everything will go okay unless bolts break.
 
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Old 06-19-14, 07:45 PM
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Success, no leaks anymore! All bolts came out without issue. I re-tapped all holes, re-die'ed all bolts (was going to replace the bolts but the ones they gave me were 1/4" too long and mine were in great shape), applied plenty of anti-seize, and cleaned the block, new plate, and gasket with the magic no residue, fast dry formula (aka brake parts cleaner).

The thing most surprising to me is how far off the aquastat is from the boiler temp gauge. I have the aquastat high side set to stop at 135 in order for the burner to stop at ~165. Maybe I should put some thermal conducting paste in the thermostat well?

 
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Old 06-19-14, 08:04 PM
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Nice job. I had a few bulbs that broke off when that paste got rock hard.Might be the gauge is a bit off too. Got some scrape copper there now.Buy a beer.
 
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Old 06-20-14, 05:41 AM
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I wouldn't trust either the gauge OR the aquastat for accuracy. If the a'stat accuracy is off, that's not a problem usually, as long as the setting is REPEATABLE. You always want it to operate at the same temperature regardless of whether you have to 'offset' it.

Those bolts should be evenly tightened. Use a torque wrench if you have one, but if not, just make sure they are reasonably even tightness.

After a couple weeks, retorque the bolts. Do due diligence and watch for leaks over time.
 
 

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