Oil burner swapped out now boiler runs like crap

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  #81  
Old 09-19-14, 03:59 PM
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I thought so but thanks for your professional input....again!

I had to order up a few nozzles and spare electrode kits, from Patriot. I change the electrodes, when I change pout the nozzle and filter annually. Patriot is my new 'go to' company for all my needs related to heating/plumbing. There help was invaluable trust me. Once I get around to installing this new burner I'll post back with my results.
 
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  #82  
Old 09-19-14, 04:14 PM
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I get years and years out of a set of electrodes! They can usually be 'dressed' with a file.

The new burner with the Genisys control probably has 'interrupted' ignition, meaning after about 15 seconds the spark is turned off. Electrodes last a LOT longer that way!

A little more about the T T on the primary control. Certain systems, typically oil fired HOT AIR furnaces will make use of those terminals. Hot WATER systems, almost never.
 
  #83  
Old 10-04-14, 07:45 AM
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Red face Its alive!

OK, The new burner gun is installed. It is a Beckett B71210 MDLAFLL chassis with a HLX70B tube and assembly and 5149=80 flange and gasket. I am running a DELAVAN .75 GAL 60 degree solid spray nozzle. The burner gun is controlled by a GeniSys 7505 controller and the boiler controls the zone valves so the Tw-Tr contact gets a jumper wire.

The wiring was simple also Power to L1 Neutral to L2. But, I had some misgivings about the RED wire on the limit option. It needs 120 volts also. So after thinking a bit about this I simply twisted it together with the L1 lead to get power and BAM! This bad boy fired right up.

For the initial set up I kind of relied on my memory (that can be dangerous ) and thought the original burner air setting was about 3 3/4 on the dial. So, for the initial firing that is where I started. After it was running for about five minutes, I did an initial smoke test on it. The damn thing was spot on!

By this time I was completely spent energy-wise so I did not look for a slightly sooty output then adjust back to a clean running mode. I did not do any draft testing either. It has been running for two full days. I am getting just a tiny bit of soot but I need to remove the piping and clean it again. And, you have to remember this isn't a gas burner and the fuel we now get is crap.

I would like to publically acknowledge Patriot Supply for their great line of goods and support. I would like to single out Mr. Joe Moody in particular of Patriot Supply for being the professional that he is. I trust him and that is the best thing I can say about him when I think about it.

I would also like to thank anyone who offered any advice concerning my little dilemma and that goes double for you NJ Trooper.

LESSON LEARNED: DO NOT use any replacement part(s) that was not initially designed for the equipment it will be attached to unless you know how to modify it so that it will work properly. AND it is cheaper to stay with what you got if it is repairable.

I also hope this thread helps someone else. This DIY site is the best!
 
  #84  
Old 10-04-14, 10:23 AM
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The wiring was simple also Power to L1 Neutral to L2. But, I had some misgivings about the RED wire on the limit option. It needs 120 volts also. So after thinking a bit about this I simply twisted it together with the L1 lead to get power and BAM! This bad boy fired right up.
If you've got the LIMIT wire tied to L1 HOT, how is the burner being controlled on high limit?

Isn't the RED wire supposed to go to the B1 terminal in the aquastat?

You MAY have created a dangerous situation if I'm understanding your description of how you wired it correctly.
 
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Old 10-04-14, 11:09 AM
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By the Honewell controller on the boiler. That is where the hot leg and neutral comes from off of the the B1 and B2 burner controls. It controls the GeniSys units power, via what the high/low aquastats tell the Honeywell controller to do as far as water temps and preset tell it to do are concerned. My two zones also 'report' to the Honeywell controller also.
 
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Old 10-04-14, 11:39 AM
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That is where the hot leg and neutral comes from off of the the B1 and B2 burner controls.

Just to be clear, you can't really call the B1 terminal the "HOT LEG" ... yes, it IS a HOT, but it is not ALWAYS hot. B1 is a SWITCHED HOT from the high limit control.


OK, well, you said you tied it to the L1 which typically is ALWAYS HOT, and NOT under control of the high limit in the aquastat...

If you have the LIMIT wire connected to the B1 terminal, ALONG WITH a wire to the L1 terminal on the Genesis controller, then you are not taking full advantage of all the features that are possible with the Genesys controller.

Because the power will drop to the L1 power input on the Genesis control when the high limit is reached, the burner motor power off delay won't work...

To be able to take full advantage of all the Genesis features, one would need an ALWAYS HOT wire going to L1, and only the LIMIT wire going to the B1 terminal in the aquastat.
 
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Old 10-04-14, 11:44 AM
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GOTCHYA! Thanks yet again.
 
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Old 10-08-14, 01:41 PM
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Smile Update

Today I looked into the wiring and made your suggested changes.
First off I had the L2 line on the GeniSys controller wired to the B2 contact on my Honeywell Boiler. That wire will stay the same.

Then I had the black wire on the GeniSys wired to B1 of the Honeywell AND the red high limit wire of the GeniSys also wired to that B1 contact.

Your suggestion was that to leave the red hi limit wire on the Honeywell B1 contact, and wire the L1 of the GeniSys to a constant source of voltage in the Honeywell. There is that contact and a neutral contact at the very beginning of the Honeywell board. This is the source power from my electrical panel. I did that. Things didn't go as expected.

Wired that way, the boiler fired up immediately with a pop or puff back if you will, and ran until the temps were met, then shut off EXCEPT for the fan. After 45 seconds that fan was still running so something wasn't right.

So, I wired it back up the way it was. The white wire stayed as it was and the GeniSys Limit and L1 to the Honeywell B1 contact, and fired her back up.

The exhaust fan comes on first for about 15 seconds, just like it did before, then the boiler fires up nice and smooth, runs, then shuts down after it is up to temps.

Keep in mind that this Honeywell controller is a 1993 version and maybe that makes the difference?
 
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Old 10-08-14, 03:09 PM
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Wired that way, the boiler fired up immediately with a pop or puff back if you will, and ran until the temps were met, then shut off EXCEPT for the fan. After 45 seconds that fan was still running so something wasn't right.
What you did was correct...

Constant source of power to the L1 terminal of the Genesis, high limit switched source of power from the B1 terminal to the LIMIT terminal of the Genesis.

After 45 seconds that fan was still running so something wasn't right
If that " fan " you are referring to was the blower motor, then that WAS correct. That's the 'post purge' I mentioned... I might have called it 'motor off delay'.

It's purpose is to purge the combustion chamber, heat exchanger, and flue/chimney of the residual flue gas after the burner shuts down. It ALSO cools off the burner head and the nozzle and helps to prevent nozzle 'after drip'.

The thermostat must have been calling for heat at the time that you powered it back on.

I would try it again if I were you, but make sure thermostat is not calling for heat when you power the boiler back up. Turn boiler on, wait for controls to 'initialize', and THEN turn thermostat up.

Burner should fire after blower runs 15 sec or so, and blower should run 45 sec or so after burner shuts down. That's normal.
 
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Old 10-08-14, 03:20 PM
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I will look at it again ASAP and get back to you! Thanks again.
 
  #91  
Old 10-10-14, 09:54 AM
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OK, I did some thinking on your suggestion and right now it this boiler fires after 15 seconds of the fan running. It fires up smoothly and runs fine. Then when it shuts down it does the same with no fan running to cool off the boiler. I actually think that makes no sense since it just ran to get hot!

In any event the B1 circuit and the high limit circuit seem to be one and the same in this Honeywell controller. Remember that this Honeywell controller is a 1993 version. I am inclined to leave it connected like I originally had it with the high limit and the B1 screw.

I attached two pictures;

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  #92  
Old 10-11-14, 08:58 AM
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hi just -

...this boiler fires after 15 seconds of the fan running. It fires up smoothly and runs fine. Then when it shuts down it does the same with no fan running...

Iím only up to cup 4 so Iím not yet up to speed today lol, but it sounds like you are saying the fan is running but it also is not running at the same time.
 
  #93  
Old 10-11-14, 10:17 AM
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when it shuts down it does the same with no fan running to cool off the boiler. I actually think that makes no sense since it just ran to get hot!
Running the blower for 45 seconds after a run has more benefit than not. There won't be any appreciable cooling of the boiler itself as a result of that. The benefit of purging exhaust fumes from the boiler will mean less 'stink' in the home after it runs, and it will keep the nozzle and end cone of the burner cleaner because the nozzle won't 'after drip' due to the fact that it's been cooled down after the run.

Of course it's your choice! All I can do is present the alternatives...
 
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