Standalone or inderect hwh


  #41  
Old 07-12-14, 03:23 PM
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I didn't expect big savings, its dependability I'm concerned. every year I sweep up about a 1/4 cup of rust. I can get help take my time and do a self install before winter. If it dies in the winter the local installer will have their way with me. I went thru this 8 years ago when the flange in the back leaked and three separate plumber told me I needed a new boiler that summer I fixed it . hasn't leaked since .
 
  #42  
Old 07-12-14, 03:39 PM
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and three separate plumber told me I needed a new boiler
Typical sales pitch......... Find out where the rust is from... Where are you sweeping it from?
 
  #43  
Old 07-12-14, 04:11 PM
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Some from the case most seems to from under burners. > is there a reason to believe a new boiler would be less dependable. I don't mind spending money to gain peace of mind
 
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Old 07-12-14, 04:38 PM
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If you have condensation issues for what ever reason the new boiler will do the same thing in no time...


You need to find out..

A cleaning and a boiler bypass will fix the issue but you need to find out why..

You said you had 160f boiler temps... How do you know the gauge was right? They are often off and/or fail.. Possibly you only had 130f water...???

All in all if cost to repair that outweigh a new boiler somewhat it may be best to not throw money at it...

But myself would like to know exact issues and causes before I replace. This way you can address this with the new install..




I don't mind spending money to gain peace of mind

Also I have no problem spending other peoples money.. There is a nice bridge in Brooklyn for ya!!!
 
  #45  
Old 07-12-14, 05:13 PM
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I believe the most serious issues have been resolved. the first was fixed 15 years ago when I vented the drier outside instead of in the boiler room. A year or two later I added vents to the outside so it would draw fresh air instead damp air from the crawl space or attic. over the last 5 years we addressed the lack of attic ventilation, most of the crawlspaces', redid all the walls abutting the boiler room . This year was going to be addressing the chimney and heating system. Mini split ac for the kitchen. And a automatic standby generator. The generators out (those people are just plain nuts with the install cost since sandy) it would be cheaper to fly the fridge to the north poll if the power goes out the pay what they want.

the lower temp on the boiler was my attempt to keep the pressure down if that was wrong then its my fault
the flow valves all work as of 4 years ago when I replaced the when I added the third zone. kitchen was hot as hell once we went from r-13 ceilings to r-30++
 
  #46  
Old 07-12-14, 05:18 PM
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You said you had 160f boiler temps... How do you know the gauge was right? They are often off and/or fail.. Possibly you only had 130f water...???
non contact thermometer I,m not saying the gauge is exact but its in the ball park
 
  #47  
Old 07-12-14, 07:09 PM
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And a automatic standby generator. The generators out (those people are just plain nuts with the install cost since sandy)

A portable gen and transfer switch could be done for less then $500........


attempt to keep the pressure down if that was wrong then its my fault
Failure of exp tank... But looks like you have a new one??? So you may have had someone out... Need to keep 12psi air in the tank. Check it every year. there is a procedure... Trooper will guide you better or read the sticky's at the top of this forum...
 
  #48  
Old 07-13-14, 05:24 AM
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I replaced the expansion tank 7 years ago . I checked it last night added 2 lbs air.
Is the fact that it is installed upside down effect its function or is that only important for testing.
I will take the covers off the boiler and clean it I'll post pics on Condition maybe you could advise further.
 
  #49  
Old 07-13-14, 07:21 AM
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I replaced the expansion tank 7 years ago . I checked it last night added 2 lbs air.
7 years? and you say you only had to add 2 PSI?

No, not at all likely.

Did you follow the step by step procedure EXACTLY?

An upside down tank will mostly affect the longevity, but I've seen upside down live a long time. It's not THAT big an issue.
 
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Old 07-13-14, 08:27 AM
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Guess I got a good one
Yes followed instructions and use a good quality gauge
 
  #51  
Old 07-13-14, 09:09 AM
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You took all pressure off the boiler when you tested correct? You would need to isolate the zones and drain the boiler so there is 0 psi. If not you are probably just reading the pressure in the boiler from the fill valve...
 
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Old 07-13-14, 09:39 AM
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Guess I got a good one
No such thing really. Just like a kids toy balloon deflates because the air inside permeates through the 'skin', so does the air permeate through the 'bladder' inside the tank.
 
  #53  
Old 07-13-14, 04:11 PM
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took the top off here's picsName:  boilerin1.jpg
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  #54  
Old 07-13-14, 04:15 PM
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could not remove front without first removing gauName:  boilerin8.jpg
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  #55  
Old 07-13-14, 04:22 PM
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You have to remove the strips between sections an brush... Mine has similar..They were most efficient of the day those boilers with the top baffle...... 75% at least...
 
  #56  
Old 07-13-14, 04:39 PM
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I guess you don't think this is a lot of rust.
Any advice on removing aquastat and gauge without breaking them.
 
  #57  
Old 07-13-14, 04:48 PM
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Don't look too bad, remove the strips and brush...


[ATTACH=CONFIG]34726[/ATTACH]

Whats wrong with aquastat? gauge turn out carefully. Should not break...
 
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  #58  
Old 07-14-14, 05:04 AM
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So I take it you believe its still got years of service left.
I wanted to remove the aquastat and gauge so I can take off the front cover.
One of my fears with the age and rustyness of the boiler is that the aquastat would go and would be too rusty to remove without breaking it.
How should the cover slates be positioned after cleaning should they fully cover the opening or should there be a gap?
 
  #59  
Old 07-14-14, 07:26 AM
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Remove the burners before you brush.. Let us know if those plates even come off. You lift them and just move them over. Brush then put back in original position.

The aquastat sensor should be in a well, so nothing to break...
 
 

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