Peerless Boiler Water Valve Leaking
#1
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Peerless Boiler Water Valve Leaking
I have a 20 year old Peerless boiler that has a slow leak in the bottom most water valve (Circled in the first picture and also a close up picture below). I am a novice with boilers at best, but is this simply a job where I close off the yellow zone valves (also in the pictures), drain the system from that valve and unscrew the old valve/replace with a new one? Or is this a more complicated task that I should be calling a tech for. Additionally, if this is just a simple task as I described above, does anyone know what size valve I would need for this? Any help is much appreciated - if you need additional pictures just ask and I will post them asap.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...iew_Circle.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...Close_UP_1.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...Close_UP_2.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2.../Full_VIew.jpg
Thank you very much for the help!
K
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...iew_Circle.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...Close_UP_1.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...Close_UP_2.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2.../Full_VIew.jpg
Thank you very much for the help!
K
#3
Agreed, ditto.............
After you put the cap on it, you may find it 'seeping' from the valve stem on top. If this happens, just slightly snug that nut under the handle until it stops. Only SNUG! Don't let your 'inner gorilla' loose on that packing nut, you only need to squeeze the flexible packing a bit tighter around the stem.
It just doesn't make sense to shut down and drain the entire boiler to replace the valve. You end up making so much more work for yourself trying to get all the air out of the system afterward that it's just not worth it.
Put it on a list of items to change if for some reason the boiler MUST be drained for some other service in the future.
From the pics, for reference, it APPEARS to be a 3/4" NPT thread. If you do end up replacing it in the future, use a 1/4 turn BALL VALVE type boiler drain.
After you put the cap on it, you may find it 'seeping' from the valve stem on top. If this happens, just slightly snug that nut under the handle until it stops. Only SNUG! Don't let your 'inner gorilla' loose on that packing nut, you only need to squeeze the flexible packing a bit tighter around the stem.
It just doesn't make sense to shut down and drain the entire boiler to replace the valve. You end up making so much more work for yourself trying to get all the air out of the system afterward that it's just not worth it.
Put it on a list of items to change if for some reason the boiler MUST be drained for some other service in the future.
From the pics, for reference, it APPEARS to be a 3/4" NPT thread. If you do end up replacing it in the future, use a 1/4 turn BALL VALVE type boiler drain.