New Install Wiring Help Needed - G115 / Logamatic 2107 / Taco SR504 / IDHW

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Old 09-01-14, 07:21 AM
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Question New Install Wiring Help Needed - G115 / Logamatic 2107 / Taco SR504 / IDHW

As always, please excuse my ignorance but I am finally finishing up this new (replacement) boiler installation and have some questions about wiring. I am still researching but please offer any guidance to point me in the right direction, thanks. I am trying to figure out how hook up the Logamatic 2107 & Taco SR504 and Boilermate indirect HW tank.

- Taco relays will be wired to 3 Gundfos circulators - DHW plus Zones/Floor 1 and 2.

- The Floors have thermostats going into the Taco to control circ pumps but what controls the DHW circ? The Taco instruction sheet has two 'xx' terminals that go to "TT on boiler" for priority DHW but I am not seeing a 'TT' on the Logamatic terminals. Thinking that is what controls it.

- The Logamatic will have a sensor input for the DHW that attaches to the water pipe.

- The Boilermate has a temp control rheostat at base of unit.

- Where does the electrical cable going to the Boilermate connect to? AC in?

Maybe I should have bought the Buderus indirect HW tank to integrate with the Logamatic but I am trying to use the existing Boilermate. The old setup was using Aquastat and Honeywell controllers for the circ pumps. I am a little confused as you can probably tell lol.


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Old 09-01-14, 08:01 AM
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Logo has no tt. Terminal 64 and 63 go to L and N on the taco relay. Which ever one is closest to ground 8th the neutral. The other one is power. As for the dhw, the logo came with a probe that goes into the well on the water heater where the aqaustat is now. That probe has a plug that goes into the logo. The circulator for the water heater gets powered from 24 and 25 in the logo. Same thing as the other one. Closest to ground is neutral. If you wire the indirect off of the switching relay it won't recover fast enough because of the outdoor reset. On the boiler mate the sensor goes under the tank in the middle of the plate. There's a well there. Take all the old wiring out you don't need it.
 
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Old 09-01-14, 11:37 AM
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Hmmm... that's not very clear, sorry to say, and perhaps somewhat incorrect.

Pickn, do you have this manual?

http://www.buderus.us/files/20100623..._06%202010.pdf

Take a look at Figure 9 on page 29. Study that and get back with any questions.

You will REMOVE the jumper from ZC to ZR in the TACO SR504 panel.
 

Last edited by NJT; 09-01-14 at 11:53 AM.
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Old 09-01-14, 11:42 AM
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A little more...

The following is incorrect.

Terminal 64 and 63 go to L and N on the taco relay. Which ever one is closest to ground 8th the neutral. The other one is power.

This following IS correct.

On the boiler mate the sensor goes under the tank in the middle of the plate. There's a well there. Take all the old wiring out you don't need it.
You don't want to strap the Logo sensor for the DHW to a pipe, it won't work properly, it needs to sense the water temperature INSIDE the tank.

You don't NEED to remove the wiring, just don't connect it to anything. You only need to install the sensor in the BoilerMate well.
 
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Old 09-01-14, 12:50 PM
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Good info guys... let me check this out and get back to you. BTW... I will hire a Buderus tech to check everything and commission this new boiler, getting close!
 
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Old 09-01-14, 02:32 PM
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I wire these probably 3 tines a week. It's correct. The logo will give power to the relay once the indirect is satisfied. OK 61 and 63 so my number was wrong.
 
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Old 09-01-14, 03:16 PM
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OK, whatever you say...

It's correct.
Not according to the install manual. Why would you not follow the manufacturers instructions?

Just sayin'...
 
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Old 09-01-14, 06:11 PM
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Boilermate sensor

I have to figure out how the DHW sensor is going to go in the Boilermate... the new sensor is not treaded. Here are pics of bottom of Boilermate and the new sensor that goes to the Log.

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Old 09-01-14, 09:19 PM
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What's the full model number of the BoilerMate? WH7L ?
 
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Old 09-02-14, 05:49 AM
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It should just pull out.
With this control there's a million different things you can set it up for. When I install these I set it up like I explained. It works very well.
 
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Old 09-03-14, 10:24 AM
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Indirect woes

hey Guys, my Boilermate is a model WH-7 sn: BM005476BZ. I moved into the house in 2001 and it was already installed so I do not know how old it is. I am not sure if I can put in a well compatible with the Buderus probe.

I don't have any water issues (soft) but honestly due to the age of the tank I am thinking I might be better off to get a new Indirect that is compatible with my new Buderus Logamatic. Current tank is a 40-gal (never ran out) and wondering if the new Buderus S32 (32 gal) would be suitable replacement.
 
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Old 09-03-14, 01:41 PM
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It's compatible. All you do is pull out the copper probe and slide the buderus probe in. Sometimes the buderus probe is tough and you might have to give it a good sanding to get it to go. Once it's in you just plug it into the logo. If it doesn't reach you can splice therm wire in to extend it. Do no use any of the amtrol controls.
 
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Old 09-03-14, 03:22 PM
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thanks Dburr... I will check it out. I guess I am having 2nd thoughts about replacing the old Boilermate. I am not sure when that model came out but is at least 15 years old. The house is 28 and it was added sometime after the original boiler, so it could be 20 years old.
 
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Old 09-04-14, 03:00 PM
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I'm a fan of running this stuff into the ground. Amtrol makes a good indirect. Why spend the money on a new one if you can get another 10 years out of the existing. I don't know if this applies to non contractors but the coil inside has a lifetime warranty. So if it does go you can replace it for the cost of a few couplings.
 
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Old 09-06-14, 11:52 AM
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I'd like to add a bit about why it may NOT be OK to run the AC from 61 and 63 into the main AC input of the Taco panel, not for argument, but for the benefit of future readers.

I've spoken to Taco engineers...

The power that runs the pumps does NOT come from the ZC terminal. It comes from the main AC input to the 504 panel.

Terminal 63 on the Logamatic is limited to FIVE AMPS draw.

DEPENDING ON THE CURRENT DRAW OF THE PUMPS BEING USED it would be possible to OVERLOAD the Logamatic and cause damage to it if terminal 63 is used to feed the main AC input of the 504 panel.

The ZC terminal of the Taco panel does NOT feed power to the pumps, it only switches a relay coil, and can not damage the Logamatic panel no matter how many pumps are running.

In general though, running Taco 007 pumps as an example, which draw less than 1 amp each, there should not be a problem because even if all four pumps were running at the same time, you are still drawing less than 4 amps.

Problems would occur if the pumps used drew more than 5 amps total, or if there were 5, 6, or more zones.

Always follow manufacturers instructions, because like it or not, the Engineers at those companies make their recommendations for a reason.
 
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Old 09-06-14, 03:09 PM
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Getting closer

Thank you Trooper. I still have a few questions concerning how the DHW show be wired up between the Log & Taco & Grunfos circ.

I do have my Taco wired to the AC input terminals, coming from my emergency / service switch. That switch powers my Taco & Log. (The Log provides AC to the burner.)

That diagram that you mention on page 29 of the applications manual does state terminal 63 is limited to 5 amps, like you mention. I am not sure why fig 9 only shows the one connection from 63 (Hot) going to ZC on the Taco. That confuses me, does 61 (Neutral) go to ZR then or just run one wire? I assume I will use 12ga wiring for this connection, correct? (BX armor)

^ So once we figure out how to wire the Log to the Taco, which terminals on the Taco should go the the DHW circ pump? Currently I have Zone 1 relay wired to 1st floor thermostat and Zone 2 relay relay wired to 2nd floor thermostat. Do I power the DHW pump off the Zone 4 Priority terminals marked or do I wire to the ones marked Primary?


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Old 09-06-14, 03:29 PM
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As far as the dhw circ goes, it gets powered from 24 25 not the relay. If you go off of the relay the water will be heated with the out door reset. If you go off the logo it over rides the reset for fast recovery.
 

Last edited by NJT; 09-06-14 at 04:49 PM.
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Old 09-06-14, 03:45 PM
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ahh, 24 & 25 on the Log, just like diagram!

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Old 09-06-14, 03:52 PM
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If you run straight power into the relay you won't have priority hot water. That is the only difference. I'm just telling get you from experience.
 
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Old 09-06-14, 03:58 PM
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Why does the Log even need to connect to the Taco if the Taco already has AC input and the Log is running the DHW circ? Oh... i think you answered it.. to shut the other zones off when DHW is energized.

[NJT answers: Yes, that is correct]
 

Last edited by NJT; 09-06-14 at 04:25 PM.
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Old 09-06-14, 04:23 PM
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does 61 (Neutral) go to ZR then or just run one wire?
NO!!!!!!!!!!

You only need the one wire.

I assume I will use 12ga wiring for this connection, correct? (BX armor)
You could use 14ga, there isn't much current there, but yes, use the MC cable (it's not BX by the way, MC is the stuff with the full size green insulated ground wire).

And by the way, you will be connecting the green wires to ground, right?


If you run straight power into the relay you won't have priority hot water.
How so? If you connect the DHW sensor to the Loga panel, and the pump to the DHW pump terminals on the Loga, it will work as it should.
 

Last edited by NJT; 09-06-14 at 04:50 PM.
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Old 09-06-14, 05:13 PM
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I don't know if this applies to non contractors but the coil inside has a lifetime warranty.

FYI that went out with the dark ages.... Its been 6 yr tank and exchanger for some time now..

http://www.amtrol.com/media/pdfs/warranty.pdf

To the OP. The boiler-mates are junk IMO... If its that old replace ASAP..

IMO go with a superstor contender... ssc 35

Read the specs... Can be had for around $700...

SuperStor Contender Indirect Water Heater

Oh and sorry Im late for the party....

FYI anything related to boiler wiring... Your in the best hands with Trooper....
 

Last edited by lawrosa; 09-11-14 at 07:55 PM.
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Old 09-11-14, 07:50 PM
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Many thanks

I should be all set now... thanks guys! I have a Buderus service company that has agreed to commission this puppy soon; I'll let you know how it turns out and post a few pics.

Best Regards
 
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Old 12-28-15, 06:50 PM
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Long Overdue Thanks ~ New Buderus is working Great !

Hey guys... this is about a year + overdue but life passes us by. My homeowner installed Buderus installation went well thanks to NJ Trooper and others on this site - your help and guidance throughout the process of me installing a new boiler was invaluable. And no, I had never done one before.

I think it was end of Sept 2014 when the boiler was commissioned. So after I filled the system I had a half dozen minor leaks... mostly around teflon coated fittings. I say minor but of course when you have to take things apart it is not so minor, more of a PITA. I got those fixed and I had several more that appeared and I took care of those too. One black pipe fitting was leaking also.

I bought oil from a local company and had them come out to commission the boiler. The are on the authorized Buderus list so I figured I could trust them to at least know something. The only thing this guy did was put the fuel fittings on each end of my new line, replaced the old filter at the tank and flipped the switch. It fired right up and has been working great ever since and saving me money. It is amazing how much difference it was over the 30-year old Well McClain. The service guy was pretty blown away by the neat installation and offered me a job lol, no kidding. But I have one so I politely declined.

Anyways... thank you!!!

PS: there should be a pic of it here in attachment
 
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Old 12-29-15, 09:35 AM
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Have you calculated how much oil you have saved?
What was your old boiler?
 
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Old 12-30-15, 06:20 AM
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DJD - I have not and don't think I can with any accuracy because I supplemented with wood pellets. And of course this year so far there has not been much demand for heat but I am NOT doing wood pellets this year and only doing oil. My old well McClain was huffing and puffing and seals blew out. My point is the new boiler does not run very much at all. In Sept 2014 I put 200 Gals in to fill it and then March 2015 another 150 Gals. I just put in 150 Gals which will take me to Spring
 
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