I need some advice/help. Going to remove a zone, so i can build a pantry.

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Old 09-08-14, 03:35 PM
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I need some advice/help. Going to remove a zone, so i can build a pantry.

here's what i know so far.

the base board heater is not at the end, it's between two other baseboard heaters. There are 3 baseboard heaters on the line from the boiler and back. they are A) bathroom B) kitchen 1 and C) Kitchen 2.

I want to remove base board heater B. here are my known steps

  1. allow boiler/water to cool
  2. turn off water supply to zone
  3. drain zone with spigot
  4. cut pipe at start of B heater
  5. cut pipe at end of B heater
  6. insert new piping between A and C
  7. close drain spigot
  8. open valve to allow water back into zone
  9. I assume i have to then 'bleed' zone to get rid of water, and i assume i just do this like brake lines, just open drain spigot, till no air is heard coming out.


My questions are
  1. what am i missing?
  2. what tools do i need to put the new copper piping in between A and C? I have a reciprocating saw to remove the pipes.
  3. what parts will i need (pipe, corners, some sort of sealant?

Again, my biggest concern is what tools do i need to re-install the copper piping?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 09-08-14, 03:40 PM
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Hi Teressa,

My first question is how much baseboard are you cutting out ? How many feet ?

Next, aren't you concerned that you won't have enough heat in the kitchen after you remove a section of baseboard?

How many square feet is the kitchen?

How much baseboard are you leaving on " kitchen 2 " ?

We'll go on after this because there is more to say, but want to make sure your plan isn't going to leave you with a cold room.
 
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Old 09-08-14, 04:00 PM
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i'm removing about 6 feet. the kitchen/dining room is 18'x25'. One of the 18' walls already has heaters, with another 3 feet(21 feet total). We had a heating company come out and do a survey. They said we would be fine losing the 6 feet.
 
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Old 09-08-14, 04:47 PM
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OK... I guess...

If the room is about 18x25 that's 450 square feet... at a 'ballpark' guess at heat needed in that room at 25 BTUH / SQ FT that comes to 11,250 BTUH required.

You HAVE (before removing the 6') almost 15,000 BTUH of baseboard in there now, so yes, it does seem a bit over what you need.

Your heat loss MIGHT BE a bit higher than that though, let's say you need 30 BTUH / SQ FT , that comes to 13,500 required. After removing the 6' you will have about 11,500 installed.

So it could possibly be 'borderline'. Being a kitchen, you will probably be OK.

So, as long as you're OK with it then.................


turn off water supply to zone
Yes, but you need to have valves on BOTH the supply side AND the return side. Remember it's a 'loop', so if you shut only one end, the water will still come up the other side.

drain zone with spigot
If you do in fact have valves that you can close on both ends of the loop to isolate it, then yes, but you only need to drain enough water to get the level below the pipes you are working on. It's always best to drain as little water as possible.

I assume i have to then 'bleed' zone to get rid of water, and i assume i just do this like brake lines, just open drain spigot, till no air is heard coming out.
I think you meant " bleed zone to get rid of AIR " ... but there's a little more to it than that. A little bit more complicated.


My questions are

what tools do i need to put the new copper piping in between A and C? I have a reciprocating saw to remove the pipes.

what parts will i need (pipe, corners, some sort of sealant?
Ummmm... no, you don't really want to use a recip saw for that. You won't get a clean cut for one thing, and you could end up shaking the pipes so badly that you crack a solder joint.

You should consider using a TUBING CUTTER for the pipes. They make models that fit in tight spaces if it's going to be a close fit.

We can't tell you what parts you need without seeing the job, but if you are removing a straight section, all you might need are a piece of pipe and a pair of COUPLINGS.

You will need to learn how to SWEAT SOLDER copper pipes, and that will require a TORCH to do so.

There are fittings that can be used which are called SHARK BITE which require no soldering.

It takes a fair amount of skill to properly solder pipes... not something that is easily taught on the forum. Try YouTube and Google for instructions on how to do that.
 
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