Help..New to the site. (Need help removing leaky T Flange)
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Help..New to the site. (Need help removing leaky T Flange)
I have a leaking "nipple-flange" that has been impossible to remove due to rust (I think). Any suggestions for removing the rusted pipes is appreciated. The leak is on the backside of the nipple and can't be seen in the photo but the rusty "nipple with built in flange" is right there.
Thanks
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New picture
I sprayed the union at the nipple (male) and "T" (female) with PB Blaster then I tried to get it to move with the pipe wrench but I haven't been able to get it to budge at all and the whole burner wants to move with me. Any suggestions?
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Anyone out there? My next thought is to cut the nipple off, just above the "t" union and then tap the remaining piece of nipple off of the t's thread. Then replace the nipple and flange. Should have thought of this earlier. Any thoughts? Anyone? Anyone?
Thanks
Thanks
#6
Forget trying to remove the nipple..
Take that expansion tank off and turn that whole tee off. Hold back on the nipple on the boiler side. That you do not want to remove...
Get a new tee, nipples and drain valve...
Take that expansion tank off and turn that whole tee off. Hold back on the nipple on the boiler side. That you do not want to remove...
Get a new tee, nipples and drain valve...
#7
I think I agree with Mike...
and you're going to need bigger wrenches.
While you've got the tank off, be sure to make certain that there is no water in it and that it's properly charged. That's not really the proper way to mount a tank either, should be hanging with the air valve DOWN, but I guess you can't really change that now.
Read this for more information on expansion tank:
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...sion-tank.html
and you're going to need bigger wrenches.
While you've got the tank off, be sure to make certain that there is no water in it and that it's properly charged. That's not really the proper way to mount a tank either, should be hanging with the air valve DOWN, but I guess you can't really change that now.
Read this for more information on expansion tank:
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...sion-tank.html
#8
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What is connected to the flange? I'm wondering why this is a flange connection? Depending on what it's connected to, a union or an adapter might have been in order, but a flange? Evidently this joint has been leaking for quite a long time, causing the extensive corrosion. Check for any other leaks in your system, and fix them. Leaks like that are a sign of poor maintenance.
Mike is right - remove the whole she-bang.
Mike is right - remove the whole she-bang.
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If you have a saws all you can carefully cut the nip out. Cut the nip straight across about 2 inches above the tee. Then make 2 or 3 cuts into the nip directly down into the tee. Be careful not to cut too deep into the tee. If you are watching you will see the blade come through the nip and you can stop before it damages the threads on the tee.
I would try this before replacing the tee. Worst case you have to replace it after.
I would try this before replacing the tee. Worst case you have to replace it after.
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I pulled the expansion tank off but couldn't budge the tee either. I even had the pipe wrenches snug and whacked the one on the tee to no avail. Seems locked in place. Would heating it up be a big help?
#11
You need bigger wrenches. 24" at least IMO. Possibly a breaker bar??? But you need to hold back on the boiler side nipple as not to turn it...
You can try heating some with a torch, but the wrenches should suffice...
The problem with DIY repairs like this is homeowners do not have the correct tools. To buy them would cost more then hiring a pro in some instances..
Ever price wrenches??
RIDGID 24 in. Aluminum Pipe Wrench-31105 at The Home Depot
I have a 4ft that will work.... Want to borrow it.....LOL
You can try heating some with a torch, but the wrenches should suffice...
The problem with DIY repairs like this is homeowners do not have the correct tools. To buy them would cost more then hiring a pro in some instances..
Ever price wrenches??
RIDGID 24 in. Aluminum Pipe Wrench-31105 at The Home Depot
I have a 4ft that will work.... Want to borrow it.....LOL
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Gimorrie
Don't know why this is a flange connection either, maybe because they were trying to go from steel to copper and did not have a dielectric union? Otherwise does seem to be out of place.
Don't know why this is a flange connection either, maybe because they were trying to go from steel to copper and did not have a dielectric union? Otherwise does seem to be out of place.
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dburr9,
Considering that I have a sawz-all and another cut off tool, this seems like a viable option that I will try tomorrow after seeing if I can find a couple larger pipe wrenches first. Thanks guys. I will update progress if any, later.
Considering that I have a sawz-all and another cut off tool, this seems like a viable option that I will try tomorrow after seeing if I can find a couple larger pipe wrenches first. Thanks guys. I will update progress if any, later.
#16
I cant find a pic or video, but you can use two wrenches to make a 24" or to get better leverage.
Open the jaws of a wrench and put on the end of handle of the wrench your turning. Hope this makes sense...
Or as I said use a breaker bar...
Open the jaws of a wrench and put on the end of handle of the wrench your turning. Hope this makes sense...
Or as I said use a breaker bar...
#20
I see the gas line... You can put the wrench on the tee after removing the exp tank in a position that its pushed in a downward motion... Maybe you can get it where you can actually use your foot and stand on it.....
#21
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I can probably find / borrow a 24" to see if that works.
Last edited by gilmorrie; 09-19-14 at 08:04 AM.
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Progress presents new challenges
Ok folks...I cut the nipple out. About a 20 min effort and it was in my hands. However, as you can see in the new picture, I scored the threads in a few places due to my lack of patience. What is your opinion on using that t with the scored threads? Your feedback is appreciated.
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Ok...so far so good. But a new question...after reassembling and refilling the lines my system pressure gauge shows 20 psi while the expansion tank valve reads 14 psi. Is this where it should be or are adjustments needed and if so what should they read when the system in full?
#25
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Unsure what you mean, "the expansion tank valve reads 14 psi." Can you please post photos of the two gages, showing some of the vicinity where they are located.
#26
my system pressure gauge shows 20 psi while the expansion tank valve reads 14 psi
If you are measuring the air valve on the tank when it is connected to the system and the system is pressurized, you will NOT get an accurate reading on the air charge in the tank.
Read this again:
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...sion-tank.html
Also read this, regarding how inaccurate boiler pressure gauges are. Manufacturers use the cheapest crap gauges they can buy.
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...ure-gauge.html
So make sure you are comparing apples to apples.
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Glad it worked. 20 is a little high. Make sure the air vents are open and I would adjust the 1156 down a little. You need to drain the pressure out of the boiler before you check the tank. Make sure the gauge goes to 0 when you drain the pressure.
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To late to advice but the proper procedure to take rusted pipe apart is to use two hammers the big one held one side of the tee and the other hammer to strike the tee on the opposite side . By moving the hammers around and a few good solid hits the flange would screw out easily. A couple of solid hits to the face of the flange would not hurt either, make sure to wear safety glasses. This advice may help others working on black iron pipe.
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Progress Made thanks to Forum contributors.
Just wanted to let you see where I stand. No leaks after 24 hours at 23psi.
Now I need to get the psi down an I have been unsuccessful so far. I have drained the pressure out but it comes right back up once I refill the system?
and I have tried purging the 4 zones of air and would like to have your input when there is only one drain valve for all 4 zones as shown in the next picture. Thanks so much, you guys have been great!
Now I need to get the psi down an I have been unsuccessful so far. I have drained the pressure out but it comes right back up once I refill the system?
and I have tried purging the 4 zones of air and would like to have your input when there is only one drain valve for all 4 zones as shown in the next picture. Thanks so much, you guys have been great!
#34
You spin the top off with the lever.Then take the pin out.Loosen the nut a bit. You will see a threaded rod with a screw driver slot.Bring up the threads a bit for less pressure. To check you have to dump some water and let it feed to new point.Then just tighten every thing down.
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Thanks Guyold. That was easy enough.....I settled out at 15psi @ 120 degrees F (cold). My last step should be to purge the system of air, any advice on that since I have 4 zones that feed back to 1 drain valve?
#36
There should be a shut off under that drain valve...
Close it..
Lift handle on 1156 to fast fill boiler and open each zone manually one at a time..
Watch your pressure when doing this. I raise it up to say 25 psi and try to keep it there when perging..
After last zone is done close fill valve handle and set psi to 15 again as you did before.
Open everything up and run boiler.
Make sure all zones are hot...
Close it..
Lift handle on 1156 to fast fill boiler and open each zone manually one at a time..
Watch your pressure when doing this. I raise it up to say 25 psi and try to keep it there when perging..
After last zone is done close fill valve handle and set psi to 15 again as you did before.
Open everything up and run boiler.
Make sure all zones are hot...
#38
Thanks lawrosa. What if the only shutoff on the system is the valve leading into the pressure regulator?
You saying there is no shut off below this drain?
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#39
Please don't trust the pressure gauge on that boiler. They commonly read HIGH.
If your boiler gauge is reading high, you've just adjusted the pressure lower than it should be.
If your boiler gauge is reading high, you've just adjusted the pressure lower than it should be.