Help..New to the site. (Need help removing leaky T Flange)

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Old 09-18-14, 10:16 AM
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Help..New to the site. (Need help removing leaky T Flange)

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I have a leaking "nipple-flange" that has been impossible to remove due to rust (I think). Any suggestions for removing the rusted pipes is appreciated. The leak is on the backside of the nipple and can't be seen in the photo but the rusty "nipple with built in flange" is right there.

Thanks
 
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Old 09-18-14, 10:46 AM
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New picture

I sprayed the union at the nipple (male) and "T" (female) with PB Blaster then I tried to get it to move with the pipe wrench but I haven't been able to get it to budge at all and the whole burner wants to move with me. Any suggestions?

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Old 09-18-14, 01:59 PM
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Anyone out there? My next thought is to cut the nipple off, just above the "t" union and then tap the remaining piece of nipple off of the t's thread. Then replace the nipple and flange. Should have thought of this earlier. Any thoughts? Anyone? Anyone?

Thanks
 
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Old 09-18-14, 02:02 PM
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All volunteers here plumbers may be in later.
 
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Old 09-18-14, 02:46 PM
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Thanks pugsi...as kids today say, "my bad"
 
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Old 09-18-14, 03:05 PM
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Forget trying to remove the nipple..

Take that expansion tank off and turn that whole tee off. Hold back on the nipple on the boiler side. That you do not want to remove...

Get a new tee, nipples and drain valve...
 
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Old 09-18-14, 03:43 PM
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I think I agree with Mike...

and you're going to need bigger wrenches.

While you've got the tank off, be sure to make certain that there is no water in it and that it's properly charged. That's not really the proper way to mount a tank either, should be hanging with the air valve DOWN, but I guess you can't really change that now.

Read this for more information on expansion tank:

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...sion-tank.html
 
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Old 09-18-14, 05:12 PM
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What is connected to the flange? I'm wondering why this is a flange connection? Depending on what it's connected to, a union or an adapter might have been in order, but a flange? Evidently this joint has been leaking for quite a long time, causing the extensive corrosion. Check for any other leaks in your system, and fix them. Leaks like that are a sign of poor maintenance.

Mike is right - remove the whole she-bang.
 
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Old 09-18-14, 05:36 PM
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If you have a saws all you can carefully cut the nip out. Cut the nip straight across about 2 inches above the tee. Then make 2 or 3 cuts into the nip directly down into the tee. Be careful not to cut too deep into the tee. If you are watching you will see the blade come through the nip and you can stop before it damages the threads on the tee.
I would try this before replacing the tee. Worst case you have to replace it after.
 
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Old 09-18-14, 07:49 PM
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I pulled the expansion tank off but couldn't budge the tee either. I even had the pipe wrenches snug and whacked the one on the tee to no avail. Seems locked in place. Would heating it up be a big help?
 
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Old 09-18-14, 07:58 PM
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You need bigger wrenches. 24" at least IMO. Possibly a breaker bar??? But you need to hold back on the boiler side nipple as not to turn it...

You can try heating some with a torch, but the wrenches should suffice...

The problem with DIY repairs like this is homeowners do not have the correct tools. To buy them would cost more then hiring a pro in some instances..

Ever price wrenches??

RIDGID 24 in. Aluminum Pipe Wrench-31105 at The Home Depot

I have a 4ft that will work.... Want to borrow it.....LOL
 
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Old 09-18-14, 08:04 PM
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NJT,
Very helpful info. I will refer to this info. upon reassembly
 
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Old 09-18-14, 08:11 PM
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Lawrosa,
You are right. It always seems to come down to having the right tools. I can probably find / borrow a 24" to see if that works.
 
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Old 09-18-14, 08:16 PM
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Gimorrie
Don't know why this is a flange connection either, maybe because they were trying to go from steel to copper and did not have a dielectric union? Otherwise does seem to be out of place.
 
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Old 09-18-14, 08:20 PM
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dburr9,
Considering that I have a sawz-all and another cut off tool, this seems like a viable option that I will try tomorrow after seeing if I can find a couple larger pipe wrenches first. Thanks guys. I will update progress if any, later.
 
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Old 09-18-14, 08:23 PM
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I cant find a pic or video, but you can use two wrenches to make a 24" or to get better leverage.

Open the jaws of a wrench and put on the end of handle of the wrench your turning. Hope this makes sense...

Or as I said use a breaker bar...
 
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Old 09-18-14, 08:24 PM
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Don't know why this is a flange connection either, maybe because they were trying to go from steel to copper and did not have a dielectric union?

The circulator was there at one time Im sure....
 
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Old 09-18-14, 08:27 PM
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Lawrosa,
I appreciate your advice. The pictures I posted don't show the gas line that is obstructing my ability to just go nuts with the leverage.
 
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Old 09-18-14, 08:35 PM
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I will see if I can rig up a cheater bar to get more torque
 
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Old 09-18-14, 08:45 PM
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I see the gas line... You can put the wrench on the tee after removing the exp tank in a position that its pushed in a downward motion... Maybe you can get it where you can actually use your foot and stand on it.....
 
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Old 09-19-14, 06:58 AM
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I can probably find / borrow a 24" to see if that works.
I think you may need two. Maybe you can get by with one large wrench and jam a smaller one up against the floor, a wall, or another pipe.
 

Last edited by gilmorrie; 09-19-14 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 09-19-14, 10:04 AM
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Progress presents new challenges

Ok folks...I cut the nipple out. About a 20 min effort and it was in my hands. However, as you can see in the new picture, I scored the threads in a few places due to my lack of patience. What is your opinion on using that t with the scored threads? Your feedback is appreciated.

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Old 09-19-14, 10:16 AM
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What is your opinion on using that t with the scored threads?
It will probably leak................
 
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Old 09-20-14, 05:24 PM
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Ok...so far so good. But a new question...after reassembling and refilling the lines my system pressure gauge shows 20 psi while the expansion tank valve reads 14 psi. Is this where it should be or are adjustments needed and if so what should they read when the system in full?
 
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Old 09-20-14, 05:35 PM
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Unsure what you mean, "the expansion tank valve reads 14 psi." Can you please post photos of the two gages, showing some of the vicinity where they are located.
 
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Old 09-20-14, 06:20 PM
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my system pressure gauge shows 20 psi while the expansion tank valve reads 14 psi
Just to reiterate...

If you are measuring the air valve on the tank when it is connected to the system and the system is pressurized, you will NOT get an accurate reading on the air charge in the tank.

Read this again:

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...sion-tank.html

Also read this, regarding how inaccurate boiler pressure gauges are. Manufacturers use the cheapest crap gauges they can buy.

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...ure-gauge.html

So make sure you are comparing apples to apples.
 
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Old 09-22-14, 01:16 PM
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Glad it worked. 20 is a little high. Make sure the air vents are open and I would adjust the 1156 down a little. You need to drain the pressure out of the boiler before you check the tank. Make sure the gauge goes to 0 when you drain the pressure.
 
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Old 09-22-14, 01:41 PM
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To late to advice but the proper procedure to take rusted pipe apart is to use two hammers the big one held one side of the tee and the other hammer to strike the tee on the opposite side . By moving the hammers around and a few good solid hits the flange would screw out easily. A couple of solid hits to the face of the flange would not hurt either, make sure to wear safety glasses. This advice may help others working on black iron pipe.
 
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Old 09-22-14, 10:32 PM
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Never too late. I appreciate the response. If that t leaks I just might need to use your advice
 
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Old 09-22-14, 10:35 PM
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adjust the 1156 down a little.
I am not sure what you mean by 1156?
 
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Old 09-22-14, 10:46 PM
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Progress Made thanks to Forum contributors.

Just wanted to let you see where I stand. No leaks after 24 hours at 23psi.

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Now I need to get the psi down an I have been unsuccessful so far. I have drained the pressure out but it comes right back up once I refill the system?

and I have tried purging the 4 zones of air and would like to have your input when there is only one drain valve for all 4 zones as shown in the next picture. Thanks so much, you guys have been great!

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Old 09-22-14, 10:54 PM
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1156 is a Watts water feeder,bronze in color.Green ones are Taco,red B+G.and so on.Most have adj. on them so you can dial in the pressure somewhat. Nice no leaks.
 
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Old 09-22-14, 11:18 PM
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Thanks Guyold,
I have an SB1156F but can't see how to adjust it?

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Old 09-22-14, 11:39 PM
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You spin the top off with the lever.Then take the pin out.Loosen the nut a bit. You will see a threaded rod with a screw driver slot.Bring up the threads a bit for less pressure. To check you have to dump some water and let it feed to new point.Then just tighten every thing down.
 
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Old 09-23-14, 10:07 AM
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Thanks Guyold. That was easy enough.....I settled out at 15psi @ 120 degrees F (cold). My last step should be to purge the system of air, any advice on that since I have 4 zones that feed back to 1 drain valve?
 
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Old 09-23-14, 10:22 AM
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There should be a shut off under that drain valve...

Close it..

Lift handle on 1156 to fast fill boiler and open each zone manually one at a time..

Watch your pressure when doing this. I raise it up to say 25 psi and try to keep it there when perging..

After last zone is done close fill valve handle and set psi to 15 again as you did before.

Open everything up and run boiler.

Make sure all zones are hot...
 
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Old 09-23-14, 02:38 PM
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Thanks lawrosa. What if the only shutoff on the system is the valve leading into the pressure regulator?
 
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Old 09-23-14, 02:54 PM
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Thanks lawrosa. What if the only shutoff on the system is the valve leading into the pressure regulator?
Two different shut offs. One is for water fill. The one Im talking about stops flow in the heating loop..

You saying there is no shut off below this drain?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]38792[/ATTACH]
 
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Old 09-23-14, 04:55 PM
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Please don't trust the pressure gauge on that boiler. They commonly read HIGH.

If your boiler gauge is reading high, you've just adjusted the pressure lower than it should be.
 
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Old 09-23-14, 06:40 PM
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NJ Trooper,
What do you mean by "that boiler"? If you can't trust the pressure guage what should you do?
 
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