boiler inlet valve overflow leaking (w. pic)

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  #1  
Old 09-23-14, 08:32 AM
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boiler inlet valve overflow leaking (w. pic)

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Size:  16.0 KBso, i had to let some water into my boiler pipes (as the PSI was low) . I opened the inlet valve and then opened the pressur evalve so the water could flow in. I closed the inlet valve compeltely shut but the overflow is now leaking. The inlet valve it welded so would be a cost to replace. Any suggestions : (should i just cap the overflow valve; or will this let additonal water into the pipes?)

I included pic below
 
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  #2  
Old 09-23-14, 08:48 AM
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The unit that is leaking is the back flow preventer, its job is to prevent boiler water backing up into the domestic drinking water. This can happen if the domestic water pressure becomes lower then the boiler water pressure. It is usually code that a working back flow preventer be installed.
 
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Old 09-23-14, 09:15 AM
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Replace the backflow preventer. It has unions, and is easy to replace.

The "inlet valve," is soldered (not "welded) and shouldn't need to be replaced.
 
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Old 09-23-14, 09:27 AM
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and then opened the pressure valve so the water could flow in.
That should not of been touched. It fills automatically to 12 psi or so..

If its not letting water in the boiler when the main valve is open then it may be faulty...

Is there a valve after the pressure valve? That one should be closed, not the main valve. That may be the issue..
 
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Old 09-23-14, 09:44 AM
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Size:  29.7 KBThanks for the excellent advice, it is really apprecaited.

The reason i opened the pressure valve when letting the water into the boiler was because when i open the main lever, ( to let the domestic water in) , it seemed to be going in slow...so i just opned it (to check what it would do) . It seemed to let the water in alot faster...but honestly, i didn't know the pressure valve shouldn't have been opened. Was just an iggnorant move from someone that didn't know any better (me ).


as for what saves said::
"This can happen if the domestic water pressure becomes lower then the boiler water pressure. It is usually code that a working back flow preventer be installed""

...could it be leaking because i let too much water into the system?? The pressure seemed to have been around 13 when cool and around 20 or so when running. I could be wrong on this and can double check if needed.

If it is because i let to much water into the system, should i just let it seep out (unti lit stops)

so, does it seem like it is working (by releasing the water) or does it seem like it needs to be replaced ?

Any further insight would be welcome.

Thank you all once again in advance.
 
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Old 09-23-14, 10:36 AM
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..but honestly, i didn't know the pressure valve shouldn't have been opened. Was just an iggnorant move from someone that didn't know any better (me ).

It could be opened if it has a handle on it. In the first pic it looked like just a nut with an adjuster. I still cant tell in the new pic either...

If it was an older style with just a nur and ajuster rod then you would need to set it back so the boiler fills 12-15psi automatically..

...could it be leaking because i let too much water into the system?? The pressure seemed to have been around 13 when cool and around 20 or so when running. I could be wrong on this and can double check if needed.
Thats fine... The backflow preventer will prevent boiler water from getting into your drinking water. Bad things can happen to your health if so. So if say your manin was turned off to the home and you had 0 psi on the house side, the boiler still has 13 psi and will push back into the house water.

If the backflow leaks its doing its job.. You do not want to plug that port..

If it dont stop leaking usually you have to replace..

Open the main valve to the boiler and leave it open. Then drain some water out of the boiler. Then if the fill valve has a handle force some water in it to 12 psi.. Leave main open and wait and see if backflow stops leaking..

Also is there a valve after the pressure valve?
 
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Old 09-23-14, 11:28 AM
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..but honestly, i didn't know the pressure valve shouldn't have been opened. Was just an iggnorant move from someone that didn't know any better (me ).
It could be opened if it has a handle on it. In the first pic it looked like just a nut with an adjuster. I still cant tell in the new pic either...

If it was an older style with just a nur and ajuster rod then you would need to set it back so the boiler fills 12-15psi automatically..
The Pressure valve has a handle on it ( I opened it, filled up the boiler, and closed it again). Seems that was ok for me to do

.
..could it be leaking because i let too much water into the system?? The pressure seemed to have been around 13 when cool and around 20 or so when running. I could be wrong on this and can double check if needed.
Thats fine... The backflow preventer will prevent boiler water from getting into your drinking water. Bad things can happen to your health if so. So if say your main was turned off to the home and you had 0 psi on the house side, the boiler still has 13 psi and will push back into the house water.

If the backflow leaks its doing its job.. You do not want to plug that port..


Open the main valve to the boiler and leave it open. Then drain some water out of the boiler. Then if the fill valve has a handle force some water in it to 12 psi.. Leave main open and wait and see if backflow stops leaking..

I think I am following. Do I need to wait for the system to cool down before doing this (don’t want to add cold water to hot),


Also is there a valve after the pressure valve?
I don’t see a valve after the pressure valve). There is some type of valve (or type of something) where the water comes into the boiler line, I attached a pic, but not sure what it isName:  what type of valve.jpg
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Last edited by lawrosa; 09-23-14 at 12:53 PM. Reason: added quotes for clarity
  #8  
Old 09-23-14, 12:49 PM
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I think I am following. Do I need to wait for the system to cool down before doing this (donít want to add cold water to hot),
Not really. Where the feed is will not affect anything..Its piped into the main zone line.. Just bleed off some water.

Im trying to get you to possibly clear debris in the backflow preventor..

If it clears and stops leaking leave the yellow valve open.. Its a big debate to open or close..

I leave open... I do this with mine and homeowners. It lessens call backs for low psi/no heat calls.
 
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Old 09-23-14, 12:52 PM
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I donít see a valve after the pressure valve). There is some type of valve (or type of something) where the water comes into the boiler line, I attached a pic, but not sure what it is
Thats your automatic air removal device..


If you cant stop backflow from leaking and need to replace, you will need yo drain the boiler to replace... While its drained it would be in your best interest to add a valve after the pressure valve, and check air charge in expansion tank...
 
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Old 09-24-14, 06:57 AM
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so i triedlast night to flush the line out and it slowed up the drip but did not stop it, seems i'm going to need to replace the BFP. Had a few questions if i may.

on the side of my blioer ( i will attach pic tonight if needed) i have 2 drainage valves. Once is coming out of the boiler itslef (and has a pressure-type release valve on the top of it) . The other is the turn-type( like in on a lawn faucet) that would be used to emptry the water out of the zoned pipes.

When i replace the BFP, do i need to just empty the boiler, or do i need to drain the zoned pipes as well?
Is there a way to release the pressure ( so i can remove the BFP without water coming out of the pressure release valve (coming from the boiler) without having to empty the water?

I did empty the boiler watwer last night (and let new warter in ) to try to flush the BFP out and the water was brown (and them cleared up after a few seconds).

Any tips or thoughts are apprecaited.

Thank you
 
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Old 09-24-14, 07:23 AM
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Don't worry about the brown water - it's normal and unavoidable, and don't flush the system just to eliminate the brown; clear water will quickly turn brown again. Harmless. Unnecessary, routine flushing introduces a slug of oxygen, which is harmful, which is why there is an air eliminator.

Forget fooling with the pressure relief valve. You'll need to open the boiler drain (like a hose faucet) until the pressure gauge reads zero. You will probably have to further drain the water below the elevation of the backflow preventer.

While the pressure is down to zero, check the air charge in the expansion tank with a tire gauge, and pump it up to 12 psi with a bike pump. This has to be done with the system depressurized.
 
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Old 09-24-14, 08:04 AM
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sounds good, thanks for the info.

One question that comes to mind, once i open the drain valve and get the pressure down to zeo, how do i go about further draining the water below the elevation of the backflow preventer?
 
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Old 09-24-14, 09:12 AM
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how do i go about further draining the water below the elevation of the backflow preventer?
You won't need to.

Nor do you want to.

There is a check valve in the 1156 valve that should allow you to close the water supply in, drop the boiler to zero psi, and change the valve without draining the boiler.
 
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Old 09-24-14, 09:32 AM
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Changed my mind. After getting the pressure down to zero, and the inlet ball valve is shut, the pressure reducing valve should hold any leakage to a minimum when you loosen the union nuts on the backflow preventer. The Watts pressure reducing valve's spring-loaded diaphram will shut the seat, and acts as a built-in check valve.
 
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Old 09-24-14, 10:04 AM
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so, my question is how do i drop the PSI to zero without emptying the boiler? (and how do i get it back to 12 once the BFP is replaced)
 
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Old 09-24-14, 10:46 AM
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Just drain water from the boiler drain valve until the boiler gauge shows about 0 or less than few psi. You want to get within a couple of psi so you can check the air pressure in the expansion tank. The boiler should be cooled down before opening the boiler drain.

When you are through, open the input shutoff valve and lift the fast-fill lever on the pressure reducing valve, while keeping a close eye on the boiler pressure gauge to avoid over-pressurizing the system. Check for leaks in any joints you opened. Start the circulator pump, and bleed air from bleeder valves at heat emitters, as required.
 
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Old 09-24-14, 10:54 AM
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Try to isolate the zones when you do this. I see valves at the cirulators.. Shut them. Then look on the return side for valves too to shut off...

But as was stated you only need to reduce psi to 0................
 
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