Piping questions for hot water boiler install

I've resurrected this thread here since it seems to have languished at its original posting -- http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...arcoliner.html

I'm installing a Burnham ES2 boiler as a replacement for an ancient oil-fired unit. My questions are on the piping for a “modern” installation. I have a two-zone system with balancing valves and one circulator. There's a piping diagram of what I'm planning at

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qkgdw7yldw...stall.jpg?dl=0

that's based on the “Recommended Water Piping” diagram in the Burnham installation manual.

Questions:

1 – Air scoop on the supply side: I imagine this could be a Taco Air Scoop (with one of their air vents)?

2 – What about the air vent on the return side? Would that be a Taco Hy-Vent or similar installed in a tee or is this something entirely different?

3 – Purge valve on the supply – is this simply a 3/4” boiler drain installed in a tee?

4 – Do I need any more (or any fewer) valves and such?

Thanks,

Randall

 

Whats your preference with the ES2??? Even though I like burnham I am not a fan of this boiler...

This boiler you need a chimney liner.. ( I did not read your other thread)

 

Now you tell me …. !

I was looking for an atmospheric vent boiler, about 70K BTU, steel push nipples, American made, 85% efficiency, so that narrowed it down.

I do plan to line the chimney.

 

Im partial to slant fin... Like my old 40 yr old hydrotherm has push nipple.

http://www.slantfin.com/images/stori...entry_s_10.pdf

Also very good controls. My preference over outdoor reset... Although you can add ODR on the newer hydrostat controls..

The hydrostat controls take input from t stat to adjust temp. Not from the outdoor temp. Superior IMO..

 

That slant fin looks great (cheap too) – I'm not well read-in on all the boiler manufacturers and I had thought slant fin made boilers only with stainless and aluminum heat exchangers. I'm too old fashioned for that.

I believe ODR is just an extra-cost option on the Burnham. I kinda like the simple digital readouts and controls on this boiler since they're similar to the programmable controls on modern coffee brewers I'm familiar with. Or did you mean that the slantfin somehow adjusts the boiler water temp based on what the thermostat is calling for, in the way ODR sensors do?

This is a do-it-yourself forum after all. I'm willing to be a guinea pig for this boiler and I'll report how it turns out. If this thing can last only half as long as the Arcoliner did, I'll probably be pushing up daisies before my kids have to deal with it again.

 

Yes

Yes

Hydrostat per slant fin...

Corny vid but real people...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_oLyfdRSPE

 

They on the 3250 now ..
Read here...

http://www.hydrolevel.com/new/images...-3250-Plus.pdf

 

Interesting idea and I gather the hydrostat can be added to almost any boiler. I haven't exactly studied the manual, but if it works so well at replacing ODR, why does it offer ODR as an option? And I don't understand why the instructions imply there are more savings with more zones. Still, adjusting the boiler temp based on demand seems like a clever approach.

My immediate goal, however, is simply to have heat this winter and I'll investigate the subtler forms of boiler control next year ….

Any thoughts on the plumbing?

 

Marketing..............................................

 

Lawrosa, I'm curious about how a Hydrostat would be connected to control an ES2? The ES2 controls are all modular and there are no accessible wells for sensors.

 

IDK.. I would have to look into, but I myself would not buy or install an ES2 personally. Not sure if there are wells...

Overpriced for what it is..

I buy the boilers for the controls myself. I would not do ODR but thats me.

I currenty have my boiler set to 140F. Going on second yr. I am over radiated. I set my t stats to 68-70F and just forget about them all winter.

The hydrostat would do the same thing. keep the boiler at 140F. I would be afraid it would raise the temp during cold periods and I would maybe bypass the feature anyway..

I would go mod con before I would buy an es2.....

Again just me... So my opinion my be somewhat biased...