R8182D - Circulator issue
#1
10-21-14, 07:44 AM
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R8182D - Circulator issue
Hey guys, first time home owner here. I'm having an issue with my circulator not kicking on when turning up the thermostats.
I can however force the circulator on by pushing on the circled spot with a flat head. As soon as I let off the pressure, the circulator stops and so does the heat.
Hot water works fine, valve are all open.
I can however force the circulator on by pushing on the circled spot with a flat head. As soon as I let off the pressure, the circulator stops and so does the heat.
Hot water works fine, valve are all open.
#2
10-21-14, 09:00 AM
There is a 24-V relay that switches on the 120V to the circulator. Trace out the control circuit with a voltmeter to see if 24V is getting to the relay coil when there is call for heat, and if not, where the voltage is being lost. If 24V is getting to the relay coil, but the relay isn't clicking in, then the relay must be bad.
Be careful not to come in contact with 120V.
P.S. What is that wire the seems to be snaked out through the flexible metal conduit at the lower right of the photo? Doesn't look kosher.
Be careful not to come in contact with 120V.
P.S. What is that wire the seems to be snaked out through the flexible metal conduit at the lower right of the photo? Doesn't look kosher.
#3
10-21-14, 09:40 AM
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I should have added that when I push on that spot, the relay on the right clicks, and the circulator starts up.
Thanks for the reply! I'll have to take a ride by tonight after work to check the voltage. If I have to ask, I probably shouldn't be doing it...but which is the 120v that I should be avoiding?
Not sure which wire you're referring to...I've never worked on anything like this in my life - This is all brand new to me.
http://i61. tinypic .com/w98b2f.jpg
Thanks for the reply! I'll have to take a ride by tonight after work to check the voltage. If I have to ask, I probably shouldn't be doing it...but which is the 120v that I should be avoiding?
Not sure which wire you're referring to...I've never worked on anything like this in my life - This is all brand new to me.
http://i61. tinypic .com/w98b2f.jpg
#4
10-21-14, 10:01 AM
What is that wire the seems to be snaked out through the flexible metal conduit at the lower right of the photo?
If I have to ask, I probably shouldn't be doing it...but which is the 120v that I should be avoiding?
If pushing on the board causes the relay to activate, there is more than likely a cracked solder connection at fault.
#5
10-21-14, 10:12 AM
Super Moderator
P.S. What is that wire the seems to be snaked out through the flexible metal conduit at the lower right of the photo? Doesn't look kosher.
https://customer.honeywell.com/resou...0s/69-0599.pdf
Not sure which wire you're referring to...I've never worked on anything like this in my life - This is all brand new to me.
Have you ever used a multimeter before?
#6
10-21-14, 10:24 AM
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I hate paying for things I think I can handle...but you're right.
I'm trying to learn - but maybe this isn't the best place to start.
I'm trying to learn - but maybe this isn't the best place to start.
#7
10-21-14, 10:46 AM
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What about shutting down with the emergency shutoff switch and re-stripping the wires going to that top right zone? Is it worth a shot?
#9
10-21-14, 03:08 PM
I believe Trooper hit the nail on the head, you have a broken solder joint on the back of the board and to fix, the board will need to be removed from metal box , find the solder joint , re solder .
#10
10-23-14, 07:37 AM
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I was able to resolve the issue by making a wider range between the hi and low settings.
Tested for almost an hour. Coincidence?
Tested for almost an hour. Coincidence?
#11
10-23-14, 10:11 AM
Coincidence?
The high and low settings must never be closer than 20F to each other, if they are too close it can play he77 with circulator operation.
BUT, it does not explain why pushing on the circuit board caused the relay to activate.
