R8182D - Circulator issue


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Old 10-21-14, 07:44 AM
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Question R8182D - Circulator issue

Hey guys, first time home owner here. I'm having an issue with my circulator not kicking on when turning up the thermostats.

I can however force the circulator on by pushing on the circled spot with a flat head. As soon as I let off the pressure, the circulator stops and so does the heat.

Hot water works fine, valve are all open.

 
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Old 10-21-14, 09:00 AM
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There is a 24-V relay that switches on the 120V to the circulator. Trace out the control circuit with a voltmeter to see if 24V is getting to the relay coil when there is call for heat, and if not, where the voltage is being lost. If 24V is getting to the relay coil, but the relay isn't clicking in, then the relay must be bad.

Be careful not to come in contact with 120V.

P.S. What is that wire the seems to be snaked out through the flexible metal conduit at the lower right of the photo? Doesn't look kosher.
 
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Old 10-21-14, 09:40 AM
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I should have added that when I push on that spot, the relay on the right clicks, and the circulator starts up.

Thanks for the reply! I'll have to take a ride by tonight after work to check the voltage. If I have to ask, I probably shouldn't be doing it...but which is the 120v that I should be avoiding?

Not sure which wire you're referring to...I've never worked on anything like this in my life - This is all brand new to me.

http://i61. tinypic .com/w98b2f.jpg
 
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Old 10-21-14, 10:01 AM
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What is that wire the seems to be snaked out through the flexible metal conduit at the lower right of the photo?
Wire from the CAD cell, running alongside the metal cable from the burner.

If I have to ask, I probably shouldn't be doing it...but which is the 120v that I should be avoiding?
Almost all of the exposed terminals will have 120VAC on them.

If pushing on the board causes the relay to activate, there is more than likely a cracked solder connection at fault.
 
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Old 10-21-14, 10:12 AM
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P.S. What is that wire the seems to be snaked out through the flexible metal conduit at the lower right of the photo? Doesn't look kosher.
Thats a R8182 H I believe and thats is for the cad cell...


https://customer.honeywell.com/resou...0s/69-0599.pdf


Not sure which wire you're referring to...I've never worked on anything like this in my life - This is all brand new to me.
Youll be working with live voltage. You can be killed. If you are unsure you should hire a pro.

Have you ever used a multimeter before?
 
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Old 10-21-14, 10:24 AM
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I hate paying for things I think I can handle...but you're right.

I'm trying to learn - but maybe this isn't the best place to start.
 
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Old 10-21-14, 10:46 AM
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What about shutting down with the emergency shutoff switch and re-stripping the wires going to that top right zone? Is it worth a shot?
 
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Old 10-21-14, 11:55 AM
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What about a paper clip across the two T's to jump it?

Sorry for all the posts
 
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Old 10-21-14, 03:08 PM
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I believe Trooper hit the nail on the head, you have a broken solder joint on the back of the board and to fix, the board will need to be removed from metal box , find the solder joint , re solder .
 
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Old 10-23-14, 07:37 AM
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I was able to resolve the issue by making a wider range between the hi and low settings.

Tested for almost an hour. Coincidence?
 
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Old 10-23-14, 10:11 AM
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Coincidence?
Maybe...

The high and low settings must never be closer than 20F to each other, if they are too close it can play he77 with circulator operation.

BUT, it does not explain why pushing on the circuit board caused the relay to activate.
 
 

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