Boiler zonevalve and thermostat


  #41  
Old 10-29-14, 04:14 PM
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Looks like I had it bassackwards, story of my life:

Flo-Control Valves are vertical lift check valves that function when the system pump starts. Flo-Control Valves are designed with a handle that when turned fully counterclockwise will permit gravity circulation. This is useful in emergency situations whenever electrical power is lost and only partial heating is possible.

During system filling and purging it may be helpful to Manually open the Flo-Control Valve to aid in air removal. Do, this by turning the handle counterclockwise to the fully open position.
IMPORTANT: If handle is left in the manual open position, uncontrolled heating of room radiation will occur. If after power outage or system air venting the manual flow feature was used, make sure the Flo-Control is returned to automatic operation.
 
  #42  
Old 10-29-14, 04:38 PM
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  #43  
Old 10-29-14, 05:21 PM
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I followed the old thermostat wires from the boiler to the basement ceiling and I see that they are wirenutted together with a different wire. This wire then goes off to the t'stat.

The pattern seems consistent, I can turn up the t'stat causing the burner to start, and turn down the t'stat causing the burner to stop. However, if I leave the t'stat after it kicks off the burner it does not turn off the burner even if the temperature increases above what the t'stat is set at. The burner only stops when it reaches the high limit. Also, it appears that the circulator pump keeps going and going.

Could this have something to do with the red and white wire being connected to the wrong terminals. What will happen, worst case, if I swap the red and white wire?
 
  #44  
Old 10-29-14, 06:06 PM
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Could this have something to do with the red and white wire being connected to the wrong terminals. What will happen, worst case, if I swap the red and white wire?
No, I don't think so. You said it's just a regular old style 2 wire T87, right? Polarity doesn't matter at all with those.

Are they the type with the mercury vial inside? (please dispose of responsibly! Mercury does not belong in a landfill!)

It sounds as if you won't need much justification for those new thermostats now!
 
  #45  
Old 10-29-14, 06:16 PM
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Yeah I agree. Perhaps it is time for new thermostats. These are the ones with the mercury vial inside.

I did do the same measurements as I did on the old RA89, on that one I only had 14VAC across the terminals on the SR502-4 I have 28VAC across all terminals except for when it is active then it is 0VAC.

The described behavior is for both zones. I believe the wiring is correct. I have power coming in to a dedicated switch. From there I power the a'stat and the new SR502-4 panel. Both of the pumps are hooked up to the SR502 and each thermostat is connected to the respective zone and the endswitch is connected to TT on the a'stat
 
  #46  
Old 10-29-14, 06:20 PM
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The described behavior is for both zones
BOTH ? thermostats are doing this?

I thought only one of them...

This changes my thinking a little bit, but I'm not sure what it means exactly.

I believe those thermostats have an 'anticipator' dial inside, don't they?

It should be labeled as 'shorter' <---> 'longer'.

Where is it set?

I have 28VAC across all terminals except for when it is active then it is 0VAC
Exactly right...
 
  #47  
Old 10-29-14, 06:28 PM
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Yes both of them.

It did have an 'anticipator' dial. Here is a picture

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_T...ew?usp=sharing
 
  #48  
Old 10-29-14, 06:44 PM
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Try pushing the anticipator down to .2 , maybe even .15 and see what happens.

This should cause the thermostat to open sooner (shorter cycle length)
 
  #49  
Old 10-29-14, 06:58 PM
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It turned off after running for a couple of minutes. wahoo. It is still hot as hell but perhaps if I let it cool down overnight, I can do some fresh tests tomorrow. I must have turned it down past .15, I am not exactly sure, but it turned off. The temperature is still a bit higher than the t'stat but this I hopefully can fine tune.
 
  #50  
Old 10-29-14, 07:09 PM
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Yeah, let it all settle down...

like I said, they also need to be perfectly level. Do yours have the built in 'bubble level' in them?
 
  #51  
Old 10-29-14, 07:15 PM
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Nope no level. They've been hanging on the wall as long as I can remember. No knowing if the installer had them level from the beginning but they have not moved as far as I know, always been in the same spot
 
  #52  
Old 10-31-14, 04:12 AM
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I pushed the anticipator dial all the way down on both t'stats, and things have improved significantly. The heat call comes in and the burner starts, and the t'stat shuts it down when the temperature is reached. The burner also stops before hitting the max temperature setting of the a'stat. After our conversation on the a'stat, and the fact that I moved the circulator to the Taco SR, I put the red and white wire back and just pulled the blue wire and put a wirenut on.

It's interesting to me that changing the relay from the old RA89 and moving the circulator off the a'stat, had me making such a significant (I think) change to the t'stats.

As far as cutting the pipes, were you able to see the new photos I uploaded in post 42? I was not able to edit my old post 29.
 
  #53  
Old 10-31-14, 08:32 AM
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It's interesting to me that changing the relay from the old RA89 and moving the circulator off the a'stat, had me making such a significant (I think) change to the t'stats.
It all has to do with the amount of current that different devices pass through the thermostat. The new panel is obviously significantly less current, thus the need to adjust the anticipator for the new current.

As far as cutting the pipes, were you able to see the new photos I uploaded in post 42? I was not able to edit my old post 29.
Yes, I believe I could view those... but wanted to wait to get the other issue sorted out first. I'll take a look at them this evening / over the weekend.
 
 

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