After this brutally cold winter, we've had some warmer weather the past few days. I came home from work yesterday to find a wet spot (18" diameter) on the floor. I figured it might be the backflow preventer failing again so I closed the supply valve for it. Today I came home, and I noticed the leak in the same spot, directly beneath a quarter-turn boiler drain (put my finger inside it and it felt wet). Then I looked beneath my circulators and there two more small spots. One is from another q/t b/d and the other is from one of the Webstone circulator isolator valves. In the three years I've been here I've never had a leaky valve. Now 3 start leaking? How? [IMG]http://i566.photobucket.com/albums/ss101/slade8200/Boiler/IMG_1459_zpsaeiflxwa.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i566.photobucket.com/albums/ss101/slade8200/Boiler/forforum2_zpsa10d63a2.jpg[/IMG]

With the spring weather approaching, my boiler has begun to act up again in terms of very loud banging noises. After some investigation I have discovered this is only happening when the boiler is cold (i.e. has been off for several hours). When the thermostat first calls for heat, the boiler comes on but the pump does not. It is during this period that the banging is occurring, once the pump activates all is well again. Just as a quick side note, at the beginning of winter I re-plumbed the system when I moved into the house. The system has a compression style tank, and someone had put a bunch of automatic bleeders in the piping. I removed these and installed a new water separator at the outlet of the boiler and plumbed it directly to the expansion tank above. This solved all of the continuous noises I was having during regular operation. In fact, the system has worked flawlessly and quietly until now. Digging into the wiring a little, the heart of the control is a White-Rodgers relay that I cannot seem to find a part number on. The boiler is activated by this control box and the pump is run off an aquastat mounted on the outlet of the boiler. I'm thinking if I wire the pump so it runs directly off the thermostat, then I won't have this latency period between the boiler coming on and the pump beginning to circulate. Is this a bad idea for any reason? In reference to the wiring diagram for the White-Rodgers unit (see picture in link below), it appears I can connect the pump across terminals 3 & 4 to be activated by the thermostat. Is it okay to do this? Currently, 'L' terminal is jumpered to 3, to which all hots except the pump are connected. The neutrals connect to the other (lower) 'L' terminal and 4 is not connected to anything. The boiler runs off terminals 1 & 2. Obviously, if I wire the pump this way, it will turn off when the thermostat stops calling for heat. It would be nice to have the pump continue to circulate until the temperature in the pipes begins to decrease below a certain value. I know this is do-able with a temperature limit switch, but I'm not familiar with the terminology to find the hardware I need. Would this be the recommended way of doing things? If so, can someone recommend an inexpensive hardware solution. BTW, the system uses a single pump and has 4 zone valves. There is an extra zone with no valve that I have yet to figure out where it actually runs. Pictures here: [url=http://s42.photobucket.com/user/ice4me/library/Hydronic%20System/Hyrdonic%20Wiring]Hyrdonic Wiring Photos by ice4me | Photobucket[/url]