Baseboard length?

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Old 12-13-14, 12:39 AM
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Baseboard length?

I’m almost finished with converting my old den into a bedroom with bathroom for my father-in-law. It was a 15x20 den, now a 15x14 open area (room) and a 6x7 bathroom all 8’ ceiling. The room is very well insulated and air sealed including ceiling (R-15 wall R-60 ceiling). The whole area is on an uninsulated slab (not a priority when built in ’72). Sidewalk and concrete patio are directly up against the 2 exterior walls so even getting some insulation on outside of slab as a break is not currently in the scenario. The 20’ is northwest facing, the 15’ is southwest and has the entrance door.

The bathroom is setup so vanity and back of toilet are on outside wall, 34x48 shower on interior wall. Bathroom will be tile floor. I have and will install the ” cork insulating mat and a 60”x30” radiant mat from warmyourfloors.com between the tile and cork to help ward off the chilly floor scenario in there. I was planning on putting 3’ of HO slantfin baseboard on the side wall next to toilet which is where I can drill through joist for heat supply/return pipes into the basement of house. I can put 2-3’ behind toilet between wall and vanity but don’t know if that will cause excess sweating from tank etc. There is one new construction Anderson DH above the toilet. There is also a 110cfm fan/light in the room.

The main room will be carpet over padding. I was going to put 13’ of HO Slantfin baseboard on the northwest exterior wall. I’m using the HO as it has the convenient spot to run the return loop inside the housing. If I make that only 8’ it will give him a bit more room for furniture to wall (probably dresser). If for some reason the room is too cold I could always extend the loop including up to 10’ down the southwest exterior wall.
The room has its own thermostat and Taco circulator supplied from a Peerless WBV-04. Zone is setup with isolation flanges with drains so if any work needs to be done it is easy to drain. Of course I’d rather do it once during install.
His 10x10 room currently has a CONSTANT heat source (42” flat panel TV) when he is in there as he lives for TV. It stays on when he is sleeping and can’t sleep without it (so he says). At 70 years old you can’t tell him different. In his current bedroom I actually have 1” ridgid foam zip tied to top and bottom of the HW baseboard element for the 10’ as his room was too hot and he was leaving window open on single digit days. Now it stays pretty consistent comfortable temperature. He prefers 68-70 degrees daytime maybe 66 when sleeping.

The yellow in picture is where it will definitely go. Pink of course also possible (and then all way down to entrance if needed). I’d rather leave as much wall space open for the bed and other furniture if possible.

Trying to link photobucket (or from laptop) keeps giving me error messages saying invalid file?

http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/w...psfbed159f.jpg

Location is Suffolk county, Long Island, New York.
 
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Old 12-13-14, 10:31 AM
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I'm thinking that you will need about 10K BTUH of emitters...........

So calculate the footage that you need with the output of the bb that you will use.

I can put 2-3’ behind toilet between wall and vanity but don’t know if that will cause excess sweating from tank etc.
If anything, the heat behind the toilet will reduce sweating.

Did you ever get a support strap on that expansion tank?
 
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Old 12-13-14, 03:57 PM
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Did you ever get a support strap on that expansion tank?
It's not mounted there any more but still could use a different support strap. I might just do a threaded rod version from ceiling. Boiler was turned 90 degrees, Superstor replaced thankless coil, 2 more zones added (and room for at least one more), now cold start, tigerloop replaced return line, repair "patch" replaced into ceiling, nice to be able to swing door open and clean it, company called and did instrument tests 0-12-350 85% efficient according to notes left.

http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps3e3ae0b3.jpg

http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/w...psfa30ec1b.jpg

I'm still going to do some more clean up of piping that I don't like. It was a "quick" 2-3 day right before last Thanksgiving when we had 3 warmer days in 60's. Had to fire it back up as it went back to 30's. The extra water supply were for temporary electric water heater, planned outside faucet, supply to new room etc. Not exactly where I want them now that some other stuff changed.

So 8'-10' in the "room" and 3'-5' in the bathroom. The HO slant fin is rated at 840 btu/foot at 180 degrees. Do I supply from bathroom running through all convected sections OR start in plain loop pipe and let it get to farthest point hot and cool off some as it comes back into bathroom? Will 5' be too much in the bathroom? I could 2' under tank since you say it might reduce sweating and cut side to 1 or 2 feet.
 

Last edited by sequoiasoon; 12-13-14 at 04:12 PM.
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Old 12-13-14, 04:43 PM
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AWESOME! You done yer homework I see!

I do kinda remember you reworking that a while back.

What's the digital display on the burner ? Elapsed time?

So 8'-10' in the "room" and 3'-5' in the bathroom.
Sounds right... I would figure on 800 or even 780 output on the baseboard just to account for the fact that those ratings are on super clean brand new materials.

You'll lose a little over time due to the inevitable dust accumulation.

I figured a bit on the high side for the heat loss, 35 BTUH / SF due to the uninsulated slab below, but reality is that it probably won't be that high.

Do I supply from bathroom running through all convected sections OR start in plain loop pipe and let it get to farthest point hot and cool off some as it comes back into bathroom?
I would run the hottest to the bathroom first.

Will 5' be too much in the bathroom?
You probably won't need more than 3' of the HO stuff in there, but if you put a little more and the bathroom door is left open, the extra will spill into the room.
 
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Old 12-17-14, 10:39 PM
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What's the digital display on the burner ? Elapsed time?
Fargo Controls Hour Meter. hooked up to oil solenoid. It starts counting when solenoid opens, stops when it shuts. I had one on the old house with "flat" tank that the guage was off. I do COD oil so when hour meter got to 160 (1.25 nozzle) it was time to order. Tank only had 230 gallons usable so that got my 200-ish fill up everytime (and within 2-3 gallons). Has convenient RESET button on it so you can do that when you get oil. No numbers to jot down or remember. This one is a 1 gallon nozzle.

I haven't gotten rid of inground tank yet so this one is matching my run time usage to the stick check to verify level what is in the tank. If they don't match.....(see photo shop of isuzu trooper in big hole).

Thoughts on replacement tanks? Basement is basically finished so putting new tank down there would $uck. Stairway narrow access with turn, MAYBE do a Roth tank if put in basement. Outside has room, would be on south east corner of house behind fence, decently hidden, able to build "shelter" for it. Close to chimney Burner area in basement. Roth Tank with hood?

Possible garage installation but would be about 60ft of supply line from tank running on top of termite guard concrete past door sill plate (bury it?).

Roth tank under basement stairs? Supply issue as it's middle of house. Fill line option would be behind the house as Slabs are in the way to front. 225ft from driveway/road to where fill might be.
 
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