Steam boiler problems after upgrade to gas from oil


  #41  
Old 12-27-14, 09:18 AM
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The mains should be coming off to the left of the riser between the riser and condensate return.
I get it now too... in other words:

Any condensate that does occur in the header, and any that comes down the main will have to flow OPPOSITE the steam flow. It won't want to do that, the steam will keep pushing the condensate toward the mains risers. The condensate that does occur in that header will cause the steam to collapse further to condensate... i.e. WET STEAM.

Either the equalizer needs to be on the other side of the risers, or the riser from the boiler to the header needs to be on the other side.

I still think that in addition to redoing the main header yet again, the horizontal section should be disassembled to make sure that the tee dropping off the main and the horizontal section is clear.
 

Last edited by NJT; 12-27-14 at 09:35 AM.
  #42  
Old 12-27-14, 02:39 PM
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You would think the contractors would know this stuff.....
 
  #43  
Old 12-27-14, 02:58 PM
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You would... if you haven't seen it as many times as some of us have!
 
  #44  
Old 12-27-14, 05:16 PM
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Check the piping schematic in the manual and make sure that's what you have. Near boiler piping is critical.
24" from the normal water line of the boiler to the header. That is minimum. The larger the RISER the better with steam. The EQUALIZER should be 11/2" pipe size minimum and should be the last thing to come off the header.
Remove your RISER from where it is and feed at the end where the cap is.
Your HARTFORD LOOP should be 2" below the normal water line.
There are reasons for these measurements and must be followed. My guess is that all your problems stem from bad near boiler piping.
The boiler worked without that copper pipe before and will work again if the piping is corrected I believe.
 
  #45  
Old 12-27-14, 06:49 PM
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Just to recap everything, here's what they need to do:

Return the boiler riser and header to 2-1/2" as clearly called for in the installation manual. They can keep the 'dropped header' but I don't think it's necessary.

Manual says 1-1/4" is OK for equalizer size.

Repipe the header so that the equalizer comes off the same side as the main risers.

The Hartford Loop connection must be between 2" and 4" below the water line. It appears to be too low.

Get rid of that copper piece of doo-doo. If the header is piped properly, it isn't needed. Copper should NEVER be used above the water line of a steam boiler.

INSULATE ALL of the piping!
 
  #46  
Old 12-27-14, 07:44 PM
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I'm about to forward the owner this thread!!!
 
  #47  
Old 12-28-14, 09:29 AM
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He'll laugh at it... tell you that you can't believe what you read on the internet... he knows better, he's been doing this for 150 years... etc, etc...

Just to back up what we're saying, go to Google, type in "Steam boiler piping" and click "Images" and try to find ONE photo (other than the ones of your system that may show up, and any others that are not working properly) that has the equalizer pipe on the same side of the header as the boiler riser, opposite the system risers. You won't find one...

Then, check ANY steam boiler install manual, including the Peerless, and you will see that every single one shows the equalizer at the end of the header, AFTER the system risers.
 
  #48  
Old 12-28-14, 05:33 PM
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What's the best way to insulate the elbows? The stuff we bought is in straight pieces.
 
  #49  
Old 12-28-14, 05:54 PM
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They make insulation pieces for fittings also...

Fiberglass Pipe Insulation and Accessories

Keep shopping though, I think State is high $$$
 
 

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