Hello, I have an oil boiler with baseboard hot water and four heating zones system. Recently, I have three technicians from same company to come to fix the boiler related problems. The first technician was called to replace a leaking mixing valve and he also did a tune up. Several days later, I found some water come out from the pressure relief valve. The second technician was called to investigate, he realized the first one set the Triple Aquastat L8124A,C high at 220, and he dialed it back to set High at 180, Low at 160, Diff at 10. But I still get water from pressure relief valve, the third technician was called in and now he thinks the Aquastat is not working correctly.. Because even with adjusted setting, the temperature/pressure gauge measuring the boiler water read the temperature as high as 210F and pressure as high as 30psi. The pressure will go down quickly if I run hot water. Once the boiler is on, it dosen’t stop at 180F, instead it stops at around 210F. Do you agree with his conclusion? Could it be that when the second technician dial back the set point to 180, he never let the water temperature went below 180F and messed up the Aquastat? Would it help if I turn off the boiler and let the water temperature go below 180 and then turn it back on? Thank you in advance for your advice. Cindy

Hi everyone, My wife and I recently purchased a new home and I have some questions related to the boiler and the new indirect hot water heater. The home is roughly a 1,300 sqft ranch with a full unfinished basement, and it is serviced my a WeilMcLain series 68 oil fired boiler. I assume that the boiler was installed in or around 1992. The HW was provided by a Rheem electric hot water. The house had two heating zones, one for the upstairs living area, and one for the basement. When we had the home inspection completed, the inspector noted that the electric HW heater was from 1985 and it was in need of replacement. He also noted that the actual plumbing at the boiler was mostly incorrect, including the basement zone that "only was piped for return". The house also has very hard water, so most of the fittings were corroded. As part of the negotiations, the sellers agreed to correct the problems. The plumber that they hired installed a new WeilMcLain indirect HW heater Aqua Plus 55. The plumber also installed new plumbing at the boiler to correct the problems there, an Argo priority zone control device, three new zone vales, a new air device, and a Watts RBFF. My question relates to the new indirect HW heater. It seems that whenever you use hot water, even if it is just to wash your hands, the boiler kicks on. I was under the impression that the boiler would not kick on until you exhausted the storage amount of water in the tank? At this point it seems that using the coil in the boiler would have been a better option, since the boiler kicks on anyway when you need hot water. The indirect seems to be a terrible waste of oil, am I wrong? The final questions relates to the aquastat and boiler temperature, where should it be kept to maintain "hot" hot water and still cut down on oil consumption? I know that with a boiler of this age, I really can't nor do I want to have it cold start. In the current winter season, the aquastat is set for 160 High and 140 Low. Where should I keep it in the summer? Would it be beneficial to change to aquastat to a different model more appropriate model for an indirect? Thank for your help! Zack[ATTACH]43807[/ATTACH][ATTACH]43808[/ATTACH][ATTACH]43809[/ATTACH][ATTACH]43810[/ATTACH][ATTACH]43811[/ATTACH]