new guy, probable old probem w/ honeywell r7284 wiring

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Old 01-02-15, 09:13 AM
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new guy, probable old probem w/ honeywell r7284 wiring

Nj trooper, grady, g.m. guys, u two seem to be the 'goto' guys here so i'd like to pick ur brains a little bit and thank u in advance. I have a Becket AFG oil burner with a Honeywell r7184 primary which is about 8 years old, which also does domestic hotwater so it runs year round and about once a year, since new, it goes to lockout, for the past two years it has locked out more frequently, every year i service it, clean, nozzle, filter etc, and every 3rd year i have a pro do it because i guess i kinda know my limitations, so I replaced primary with a honey r7284 with a digital display..... blah, blah, blah, nice unit, i also replaced the cad cell and the igniter, figured out that I need to hook up the limit spade and got the boiler to run now it only gets power for the display when there is a call for heat and the aquastat kicks in. works fine except there's no display when no call for heat, pushing any button or holding any down does nothing until she gets a call for heat. so i obviously (think) need a constant power source where do I get that constant power source from, the aquastat? and I also want to ask u about initial settings, what they should be, I poked around a little bit and just went by what I saw on internet. Hope this makes sense, i got the lyme brain thing going on. Thanks, -pete(ps im a little sarcastic sometimes, so read my posts with a smile......lol)
 

Last edited by NJT; 01-02-15 at 04:11 PM.
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Old 01-02-15, 10:11 AM
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hey pete -

I think you mean 7184 and 7284.
 
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Old 01-02-15, 11:18 AM
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Yes i do, lyme head typing....sorry.
 
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Old 01-02-15, 11:43 AM
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You know how I knew you got those wrong? Because I continually do it with the files I keep on all these controls; I continuously mix up the 48ís and the 84ís lol.

Iím sure the expert guys will be here to help you out. I have a real old burner control and one of these days Iím going to upgrade as you have. But I have flexible metal conduit which carries individual conductors from my Aquastat to my burner control. I was thinking that I would just get a few feet of black and a few feet of white individual conductors you can but at homedepot, and run those though the existing conduit from the Aquastat to the burner.

In the Aquastat I would then pigtail the new conductors to L1 and L2 and that would supply a continuous source of power to the new burner control. But I guess if you donít have conduit you would need to do it a different way. Iíve heard trooper describe how to do this before Ė but I just donít remember. Probably wonít be too much trouble.

Good luck!
 
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Old 01-02-15, 04:27 PM
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I edited the post and title to correct the dyslexia on the 48/84 ... which I do myself...

I’ve heard trooper describe how to do this before – but I just don’t remember
I'm glad you don't remember Dad! Cause I don't either!

about once a year, since new, it goes to lockout
What gets it going again? There must be a 'root cause' for this?

works fine except there's no display when no call for heat, pushing any button or holding any down does nothing until she gets a call for heat. so i obviously (think) need a constant power source where do I get that constant power source from, the aquastat?
So you've got B1 from the aquastat going to the LIMIT now, is that correct?

Yes, getting the constant 120VAC from aquastat is easiest. You would wire L1 to L1.

There should be flexible metal conduit from a'stat to burner. It may be a piece of BX, or MC cable, or it may be a piece of 'Greenfield' conduit with wires inside.

If it's BX or MC you can't pull another wire through, you'll have to replace. If it's Greenfield, you can pull another wire.

OR, you can get a piece of 14/3 MC cable and replace what you have.
 
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Old 01-02-15, 06:40 PM
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Ok, i gotcha, i gotta look again but dont i have a wire on L1 in controller from a'stat already? Otherwise She's a no fire (dont mind me just joking around.)Wait, i go ina basement and take a look at wut i did....... Looking at it now, i have B1 in a'stat going to L1(black color tag) and Limit(red color tag)(tailed off black (B1) from bx from a'stat). But, on original controller B1 was only to L1, when i swapped controllers, i simply labeled and plugged in tail for tail, when i got no heat and just 'stand by' displayed i looked at wiring schem and noticed limit needs wire, also from b1. Now I gets heat, no problemo, just no display until call fer heat, now, if i understand correctly, from what u are explaining, i don't need B1(a'stat) to L1(controller), all i need is B1(a'stat) to Limit(controller)and L1 ((a'stat)constant) to L1 (controller). Sorry for all the parenthesis , just want to be clear, and although technically i know i shouldn't, i could def sneak another piece of 14 gauge thru the bx, i know i shouldn't, but thats for an electrical post, lol. As for a 'root cause', trooper, ya got me, my hse is 8 years old, boiler is also, last pro heat guy who tuned it up said it was clean and green, yellow tag on boiler says 82.4 afue and his test printout showed it at an 82.2 net and a simple push of the lil red button and she used to fire right up no problemo????? Am i understanding u correctly or does B1 need to be to L1 also? Thanks for ur help trooper, Zoesdad thanks for catching my # bumbling and ur help and happy new year to u both by the way. Thanks-pete
 
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Old 01-02-15, 08:47 PM
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I think you got it right Pete, but let me restate just to be sure.

AQUASTAT to PRIMARY

B1 ----------> LIMIT

L1 ----------> L1

You need both...

The L1 to L1 keeps the control powered when there is no call for heat.

The B1 to LIMIT is what tells the control to fire up the burner.
 
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Old 01-02-15, 08:54 PM
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Thanks troop, appreciate it. Ill do that tomo. As long as heat works , wife and kids r happy. Thanks again. -pete
 
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Old 01-11-16, 02:17 PM
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NJT can you look at my thread and offer advice? http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ga...ting-down.html
 
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Old 01-11-16, 05:11 PM
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NJT is currently not on active status. I believe he's taking a hiatus.
 
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Old 01-12-16, 07:21 AM
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Basics

To operate R7284 needs 120V on L1. To start and run a burner cycle Red Limit needs 120 V and TT must be configured ON or have something the connecting TT terminals.

How these conditions are met varies from system to system. At least the R7284 display shows its status. When Red Limit does not have 120V display shows "Standby." It even shows when "TT open". It cannot display why these conditions are not met but is a big improvement over the old days of looking at a burner not running with no clues as to why.
 
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