Boiler issues with a Beckett A/F/G burner


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Old 01-09-15, 08:03 AM
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Boiler issues with a Beckett A/F/G burner

I have had a long time of issues with this boiler. It is an old cast iron boiler with a Beckett A/F/G burner. Right now it seems that the boiler fires up and burns up to the high limit temperature that the aquastat is set to, but then the boiler does not recycle, it simply stops and does not fire back on.

Parts I have replaced:
Entire burner unit, including blower motor, intermittent ignitor, cad sensor, oil filter, etc.
Oil filter at tank, entire fuel line
Aquastat (used from Ebay)
Low water cut off system
etc..

I don't know much about these, I have been learning as I go. What I do know is I have replaced every part on the machine except for the oil tank itself and the circulators. The aquastat I cannot be 100% sure it is good as I got it used, but the tech did assure it works, and I tested the L1L2/B1B2 terminals at one point and got a full 120vAC reading.

When the boiler runs its initial cycle, hot water does not make it to the zones. The cycle lasted 10-15 mins. Basically it gets up to the high temp and stops without firing up again.

The thermostat has been tripped for testing and it is the same issue. I have several intermittent ignitors I have experimented with, as well as CAD sensors and those components do not seem to be the issue.
 
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Old 01-09-15, 08:35 AM
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Does the burner attempt to run (cycle) and trip the oil primary control because it doesn't ignite or does absolutely nothing happen?

How do you get it to run it's single cycle again? Power on, off? Reset t-stat?
 
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Old 01-09-15, 08:44 AM
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Are you certain that the circulator is being activated ?
 
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Old 01-09-15, 09:53 AM
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One circulator?are there zone valves ?
Geo
 
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Old 01-09-15, 12:25 PM
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There are 4 circulators, and boy am I hoping they are ok condition because they are in the piping. The system is set up for regular hot water and forced hot water. Because of that there are two thermostats, one for the forced water for heat and another for hot water on tap.

As far as the circulators go, they seem to be working, but without getting water at the zones I cannot be certain. The circulators are hard wired into the house wiring too.

There are a couple of different pressure releases and I have cracked them and found water so I do not think there is any air lock.

As far as I can tell, at the recycle point it does absolutly nothing. There are a couple of us working on it and I did not get to witness the issue this past time, but we will be working on it again tonight.

To refire the boiler the entire unit has to be powered down with the switch, then after powering on the system we hit the reset on the intermittent ignitor for ignition.
 
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Old 01-09-15, 12:33 PM
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I will also add that we only use this unit for hot water on tap, we use wood stoves for heat. This is why the thermostats are either tripped or off is because we only power on the machine for hot showers.
 
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Old 01-09-15, 12:47 PM
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The holding tank gets warm when the boiler runs, is that a sign the circulators are working?
 
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Old 01-09-15, 02:09 PM
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How long has this been going on,has anything changed before you started changing out parts?
Geo
 
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Old 01-09-15, 02:52 PM
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I have some things I could say to that, Geo. I have been fighting with this thing for quite some time. Enough so that the sole reason I have not hired a pro is because it has in fact gotten the better of me and I would like to win the fight.

When issues first started it would have issues running, usually igniting errors and would some times back fire. After stopping the use of it for a while I replaced the oil filter at the tank, the fuel line, the CAD sensor, and the intermittent ignitor. After doing this it would fire up no issue and then it would over heat far past the limits on the aquastat, eventually shutting itself down into a lock down type of mode where I could not fire it until hours later once it cooled down.

After running on others theories, I tested some of the terminals on the aquastat and someone mentioned the low water cut off. So I replaced that with no results. So then I got back into the aquastat and thought maybe it needed replacing so I found one used and installed it. I still had the over heating issue which showed it was not an error in the aquastat or the low water cut off.

So I removed the blower motor and found it was junk. So I replaced the blower motor and since then it would fire up, run for a few seconds, then stop and not power back on. Frustrated I put it down for a couple weeks until I found a regularly serviced beckett A/F/G burner replacement for mine. One thing I noticed right off the back is that the intermittent ignitor was a different model, but the specs were the same as far as the timing etc. I had theories that this component has been bad because I read online that the specific Honeywell ignitor I have is one that is often sold defective, and I have tried and purchased several that were previously opened.

After picking up the burner unit (complete) I hooked it up to the boiler and that is where I am at now. It started up and ran a solid cycle, heating up to the temp that the high limit was set to, but then it went down and never turned back on to recycle.

So overall I have almost 3 burners worth of parts. The original issues were intermittent and it slowly died.
 
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Old 01-09-15, 03:05 PM
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Did the burner shut down because the safety relay was activated and the reset button needs to be pushed to get it to restart the burner.
 
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Old 01-09-15, 10:57 PM
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No it is not tripped, it just simply does not fire back on.
 
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Old 01-10-15, 06:56 AM
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Do you have a draft problem?you mention 4 circulators,it's hard to believe all 4 would be inoperable ,can you determine for sure that they are working maybe check to see if shaft is actually turning or by using a clamp on amp meter.
This being an older boiler is there a stack switch on the flue ?what model aqua stat?
Just curious if you open the hot water taps and fire the boiler will it run longer?
One suggestion from the Beckett website is to camp out in front of the burner with the inspection door open and see what exactly is going on during a call for heat,ie sputter of flame,check out what the control LED's are doing.
Geo
 

Last edited by Geochurchi; 01-10-15 at 07:18 AM.
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Old 01-10-15, 02:59 PM
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When you expect the burner to fire do you have voltage on B1 ?
 
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Old 01-10-15, 06:38 PM
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I have gotten readings on the B1/B2 once before, and as far as I can tell the blower motor is new and working, but I have not checked at the point of recycle, the first time I checked it was turning on for the first time.

If there were a draft issue, could it cause these side effects? I was just getting ready to research a component on it called a "RC calibrated draft control". I have not investigated this part and there could be something going on there.

I have a second thermostat we are going to try and do some of the tests suggested. I may be able to test the circulators.
 
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Old 01-10-15, 07:09 PM
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I assume you mean the oil burner motor is new and working , which drives the fuel pump to supply #2 oil to the nozzle at 100psi minimum pressure , were the electrodes produce a spark to begin the heating process.
 
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Old 01-10-15, 08:41 PM
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Yes. The blower motor for the burner unit was replaced once, then recently I replaced the entire burner unit including a blower motor. My issues are outside of the fuel supply and the burner unit, it has to be somewhere along the aquastat, circulators, or something else I know nothing about.
 
 

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