No heat to one zone of home

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Old 01-11-15, 03:07 PM
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No heat to one zone of home

I have 4 zone hot water baseboard system. One zone will not go on. It is on the first floor. All other zones working perfectly. Replaced zone valve motor and also thermostat to no avail. Any ideas? Piping is pex. Crown boiler.
 

Last edited by NJT; 01-11-15 at 03:55 PM.
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Old 01-11-15, 03:11 PM
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One zone will not go on
What does this mean? The boiler doesn't fire at all when that zone calls for heat?

Or you just don't get heat in that zone?

What make/model zone valves?

Replaced zone valve motor
Just the motor itself? or the entire power head?
 
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Old 01-11-15, 03:14 PM
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Sorry I'll try to be more clear. I am a new homeowner. The boiler does not fire for this zone. The valve powerheads are all honeywell. And I replaced the complete powerhead.
 
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Old 01-11-15, 03:16 PM
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No problem, I understand... just want to make sure I understand so I don't give bad advice!

Do you by chance have a multimeter and know how to use it?

Do you have the power heads with the red and yellow leads, or the ones with terminal strips?

Honeywell makes a few different types so the exact model will be helpful.
 
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Old 01-11-15, 03:42 PM
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Here is a link to the model.https://www.google.com/search?q=hone...50780646726216.
I do not have a multimeter. I'm sure I could get my hands on one if need be.
 
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Old 01-11-15, 03:55 PM
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That link brings up a whole pant load of items...

Can't you just tell me if you have the ones with the red and yellow wires? or the ones with the terminal screws?

Without a meter there are still some things to check...

First, there is a 'manual open' lever on the power head.

When the thermostat for that zone is set to call for heat (pushed way up), if you are standing by the zone valve, can you hear the 'whirring' of it opening?

If the valve opens, the 'manual open' lever will move freely with no resistance at all.

If you push the thermostat way up, and there is resistance to moving the manual lever, it means that the valve is not opening.

This will be a start, and tell us in which direction we need to troubleshoot...
 
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Old 01-11-15, 03:59 PM
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Yes it has 2 red wires and two yellow. The lever moves freely when called for heat and has resistance when closed.
 
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Old 01-11-15, 04:12 PM
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OK then, in that case, the thermostat is working, the valve is opening, and the problem is between the red wires and the boiler.

Are your zone valves wired to a 'control' panel, such as a Taco ZVC type? Or are they wired in "rat's nest" style with individual wires running all over, like a rat's nest?
 
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Old 01-11-15, 04:13 PM
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They are rats nest style.
 
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Old 01-11-15, 04:19 PM
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OK... so the red wires from all of the zone valves should be wired in parallel, and from where they join there should be two wires leading to the boiler.

Without a meter we have to rely on VISUAL inspection.

Since the other zones are all working, and ASSuming that the new zone valve head is good, inspect every wire connection between the new zone valve red wires and where they join with the other red wires from the working zone valves.

Look for bad connection or broken wire.

Use a bright light and your strongest pair of reading glasses.

SOMETIMES those wires actually break INSIDE the insulation.
 
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Old 01-11-15, 04:20 PM
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Can you post a clear picture of the wiring? Let me see what it looks like.
 
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Old 01-11-15, 04:33 PM
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Trying to figure out how to post a pic on here. If the wiring is bad would I be able to open the valve manually and would that result in heat?
 
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Old 01-11-15, 04:45 PM
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Trying to figure out how to post a pic on here.
In the tool bar above the reply window are icons. The third from the right looks kinda like a tree in a picture frame. Click that and follow instructions.


If the wiring is bad would I be able to open the valve manually and would that result in heat?
Yes and no.

Yes, that zone would get heat when ANOTHER zone called for it.

No, manually opening a Honeywell valve will not fire the boiler.

When Honeywell valves are locked into 'manual', the first time the thermostat calls for heat on it's own the valve will UNlock and revert to automatic mode. So if you do this, set the thermostat a bit lower so it doesn't call for heat.

I meant to ask earlier... you said PEX tubing... do you have 'in-floor' heating? or is the PEX running to baseboard units along the wall?
 
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Old 01-11-15, 04:50 PM
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Name:  img20150111_194802.jpg
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Size:  35.5 KB ok I needed to switch to the desktop site I was on mobile
 
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Old 01-11-15, 05:15 PM
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You said FOUR zones, but there are FIVE valves. How come?

Is one of them controlling a water heater?

The one in the middle is the one you replaced?

How come so many wire nuts?

I think you need to trace out those red wires...
 
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Old 01-11-15, 05:16 PM
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Often holding the wire nut & tugging somewhat on each wire will cause the bad one to pop out as long as they aren't twisted tightly together. I'd start with the red wire nut. That's an awfully big wire nut for so few small diameter wires.

Maybe it's just the lighting but that plastic pipe looks more like PB than PEX to me.
 
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Old 01-11-15, 05:22 PM
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I believe one controls the water heater. Grady what is the difference between PB and pex?
 
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Old 01-11-15, 05:25 PM
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Yes NJ the middle one is the replacement. We double checked the wiring. So I'm pretty certain there isn't a loose one.
 
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Old 01-11-15, 05:28 PM
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So I'm pretty certain there isn't a loose one.
Famous last words!

I would take each wire nut off and carefully inspect for broken wires.

I don't understand why you have so many wire nuts.

You have 5 valves, 2 red wires each.

One red wire from each zone valve in a wire nut, with one wire to the boiler.

The other red wire from each in another wire nut, with the other wire to the boiler.
 
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Old 01-11-15, 05:49 PM
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The most common trade name for PB (Polybutylene) is Quest. It is not intended for heating. There's no oxygen barrier & I don't think it is rated for the kind of temperatures used in heating. PB is almost always grey. Look at any markings on the pipe.
 
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Old 01-11-15, 06:35 PM
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Thanks guys. I'll resume by checking the wires tommorow.
 
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Old 01-16-15, 08:28 AM
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Woke up the next morning and heat was working again...possibly a freeze up?
 
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Old 01-16-15, 09:17 AM
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possibly a freeze up?
That was actually my very first reaction but then when I asked if the boiler fired up when the zone called for heat you told me it did NOT...

The boiler does not fire for this zone.
That's why I had you troubleshooting the wiring rather than looking for a freeze............

But yeah, at this point it sounds as if there could have been a freeze.
 
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Old 01-17-15, 03:18 PM
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Ugh looks like it happened again. Any tips for locating a freeze?
 
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Old 01-17-15, 03:39 PM
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This time, before we go off on a tangent that may not be correct, please observe what happens at the boiler when ONLY that one thermostat is calling for heat.

Does the circulating pump start? Does the BURNER light off?
 
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Old 01-17-15, 03:42 PM
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ROC,
Put that zone valve on manual. That way whenever any zone calls it will also flow through that zone. If it is a freeze it will eventually thaw and you will know for sure. If the heat comes right up you'll know it's something else.
Good Luck,
 
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Old 01-17-15, 04:09 PM
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Early in the thread we tested that the zone valve was opening upon a heat call. It was.

The lever moves freely when called for heat and has resistance when closed.
I think that's pretty conclusive.

So if the thermostat is opening the zone valve, what "you'll know it's something else." do you reckon it could be?
 
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Old 01-18-15, 07:24 AM
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Both circulator and and boiler seem to be operational when heat is called.
 
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Old 01-18-15, 08:50 AM
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If the boiler fires & the circulator runs on an call from ONLY that one zone, there's a strong possibility of a freeze up. As to how to find where, about all you can do is try heating any pipes on an outside wall.
 
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Old 01-18-15, 10:03 AM
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ROC, it's very important that we get ACCURATE information from you, else we will form incorrect conclusions as previously...

I'm not comfortable that we're all singing the same song...

I said:

please observe what happens at the boiler when ONLY that one thermostat is calling for heat.
You said:

Both circulator and and boiler seem to be operational when heat is called.
Grady said:

If the boiler fires & the circulator runs on an call from ONLY that one zone,
You were not specific in your reply. At the time you tested this, were ALL THE OTHER THERMOSTATS TURNED DOWN, and the WATER HEATER was not calling for heat?

You must know what occurs when ONLY THAT ONE ZONE is calling for heat BY ITSELF. No other zones can be calling at the same time or the answer will not be valid.

I don't want to waste time down a wrong road again, I'm sure you understand.
 
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