Changing Pressure reducing valve

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  #1  
Old 02-11-15, 08:12 AM
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Changing Pressure reducing valve

Hello guys,

I have a pressure valve in the bassement that is providign watter to the furnice heater. What i found out is that its broken as its not supplying any watter to the heater. I ended up flushing the heater and only half a bucket of watter came out, which made me look at the watter supply valve.

In any case i have purchased a new valve and i am trying to determine what is needed to replace it.

Here is my current valve that needs to be


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More close up:

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Here is the new one:
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I have couple of questions,

I can shot the water on both side of the valve. How difficult would this be to remove current valve, as you can see there is some compound there that was applied previously.

Will i need to solder the new valve on to the pipes, i am hoping i can just screw the new valve on to the pipe and apply the pipe joint compound.

Is there anything else that i might need for this job other then the valve and join compound?

Thanks for your help.
 
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Old 02-11-15, 08:33 AM
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Hi Guitar-

Iím no expert (Iím sure they will be here shortly) but that looks like a union to me in the top picture, to the right, before the ball valve with the yellow handle. If that is the case I think you would just open that union and then you would be able to spin off the reducing valve Ė I think. You wouldnít need to solder anything.

But I bet the experts here will ask how you are sure the valve is bad.

Good luck!
 
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Old 02-11-15, 08:47 AM
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See the bottom port on the pressure reducing valve's body marked "strainer"? My hunch is the strainer is clogged. Isolate the pressure reducing valve, remove the plug and strainer, and clean the strainer. You should be back in business.
 
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Old 02-12-15, 09:33 AM
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zoesdad,

So if you take a look at the picture here, you are saying i should unscrew the valve first where the blue arrow is pointing?

I was thinking on unscrewing where red arrows are pointing and scrwing the new vale back at the same points.

I am also hoping i dont have to cut the pipe, and can just attache the new valve and screw it to the points where red arrow points.

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  #5  
Old 02-12-15, 10:24 AM
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G,
First, you must be able to isolate that valve from the system or you'll have to drain the boiler.
As Gil said, on the bottom of the supply valve there is a nut with a strainer attached that may be clogged and can be cleaned.
If you want to change the valve you can first, loosen that union( blue arrow). With 2 wrenches that union comes apart.
Once apart that will give you access to unscrew the valve from the other side. Take that valve with the union end still attached and from an easier location unwind the other pipe. Screw the pipe into the new valve, making sure the arrow on the valve is going in the right direction and using pipe dope on the threads.
Install the valve with attached pipe onto the other pipe, tighten union. Open shutoff, feed and test.
Always use 2 wrenches when working with pipe.
 
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Old 02-12-15, 05:34 PM
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G-

If it has to be replaced what I was thinking is exactly as spott describes the process in post #5. But I guess it looks like the strainer should be cleaned and that might eliminate the need for replacement.

But if you have to replace the valve you wonít need to cut pipe. That is what the union is for on that section of your piping, so you can remove things without cutting pipe. Iím not a plumbing expert either (lol), but it seems like a lot of plumbers use tape AND pipe dope on threads. When I first heard that I thought it was a joke, I thought you use one OR the other. But that is true. So on threads Iíve been using Teflon tape with some RectorSeal #5 (gooey yellow mustard like stuff) on top of the tape and tighten the joint up good Ė and after many joints no leaks!

Donít know whether the other guys here would agree with that method. Another thing is that if you do open up the union you will see two very smooth surfaces that mate together when the union is tightened and make the joint waterproof. You donít use anything on those surfaces.

But if taking care of the strainer does the trick you wonít have to do anything else.

Good luck!
 
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Old 02-12-15, 05:51 PM
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I was thinking on unscrewing where red arrows are pointing and scrwing the new vale back at the same points.
But if you try that, you would be UNscrewing one side, while the other side would have to be made TIGHTER.

In order to do what you are thinking, the pitch of the threads would have to be reversed on either end, and that ain't the case...

They guys are correct, you need to loose the blue arrow union first.
 
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Old 02-13-15, 07:23 AM
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Thanks guys,

That is why i am here asking questions. I will proceed with unscrewing union where blue arrow points and go from there.
 
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Old 02-13-15, 07:40 AM
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Have you tried cleaning the screen that has been mentioned?

Do that first, if you are lucky you won't even need to change the valve.
 
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