Flow check valve removed
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Flow check valve removed
Hi -
First time caller.
I have an older home in New England that has an updated oil heating system (buderus/riello forced hot water).
This past weekend I inadvertently broke the inline flow check valve in one of the circulators while troubleshooting a non-heating zone (main floor) in my home.
I reinstalled the taco without the valve and some time later noted that the main floor was at 74 degrees while the thermostat was at 68. From what I can see downstairs the pump is not running and the zone is not calling since set temp is below current. (I stared at the control box for a while to make sure the zone light was not coming on - it didnt for as long as I was down there)
Even with the set temp rolled down to 60, pipes/baseboard are warm and the kicker in the kitchen switches on occasionally.
My thought is that without the valve, the zone is getting flow from the other circulators or/and some sort of convection current.
My questions are around any issues or reasons why I should not or cannot leave it like this for the interim or forever.
And of course am I overlooking something that is a cause or issue.
Thanks in advance -
First time caller.
I have an older home in New England that has an updated oil heating system (buderus/riello forced hot water).
This past weekend I inadvertently broke the inline flow check valve in one of the circulators while troubleshooting a non-heating zone (main floor) in my home.
I reinstalled the taco without the valve and some time later noted that the main floor was at 74 degrees while the thermostat was at 68. From what I can see downstairs the pump is not running and the zone is not calling since set temp is below current. (I stared at the control box for a while to make sure the zone light was not coming on - it didnt for as long as I was down there)
Even with the set temp rolled down to 60, pipes/baseboard are warm and the kicker in the kitchen switches on occasionally.
My thought is that without the valve, the zone is getting flow from the other circulators or/and some sort of convection current.
My questions are around any issues or reasons why I should not or cannot leave it like this for the interim or forever.
And of course am I overlooking something that is a cause or issue.
Thanks in advance -
#2
Member
You need the flow check for reasons which are now obvious. Your getting either or bith Gravity flow and/or flow from another circulator. The toe kick in the kitchen switches on when water temperature is above a set point, which the unwanted flow is providing.
#3
Member
My thought is that without the valve, the zone is getting flow from the other circulators or/and some sort of convection current.
#4
Member
B,
The flocheck is there to stop unwanted flow into a particular zone. The force of the pump opens the flocheck and let's hot water into that zone on a call for heat.
Without the flocheck you will get gravity flow through that zone whenever anything else calls.
Your only recourse is to get another check valve for the pump or you can install a seperately one one the supply for that zone.
As far as extra fuel goes I wouldn't think so. In fact it may be less because chances are that zone will never call, being heated every time another zone calls.
It's strickly a comfort factor.
The flocheck is there to stop unwanted flow into a particular zone. The force of the pump opens the flocheck and let's hot water into that zone on a call for heat.
Without the flocheck you will get gravity flow through that zone whenever anything else calls.
Your only recourse is to get another check valve for the pump or you can install a seperately one one the supply for that zone.
As far as extra fuel goes I wouldn't think so. In fact it may be less because chances are that zone will never call, being heated every time another zone calls.
It's strickly a comfort factor.
#5
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 12,682
Received 41 Upvotes
on
39 Posts
Hi Baldguy & welcome to the forums.
Yes, you are getting 'ghost flow'. I don't know if repalcement checks are available or not but if you can find one, you need to replace it. If you don't you are going to get heat in that zone anytime the boiler is hot.
Yes, you are getting 'ghost flow'. I don't know if repalcement checks are available or not but if you can find one, you need to replace it. If you don't you are going to get heat in that zone anytime the boiler is hot.
#6
PEX - Radiant Heat - Radiant Heating - Plumbing Supplies - SupplyHouse.com
In the box on the left, click " $0 to $25 "
In the box on the left, click " $0 to $25 "
#7
Member
As far as extra fuel goes I wouldn't think so. In fact it may be less because chances are that zone will never call, being heated every time another zone calls.
It's strickly a comfort factor.
It's strickly a comfort factor.
The total Btus that need to be added to the house via fuel, over a season or other time period, is exactly equal to the heat loss from the house. If one room or zone is running at a higher temp than needed or wanted, the heat loss will be greater. Do a heat-loss calc for the zone in question.
Q.E.D.
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Thanks much for all the input.
I am more worried about 'breaking' something with the current hacked setup.
I will take a look around and see if I can figure out a heat-loss calc, but it seems like this is not necessarily going to cause additional (constant) cycles/calls to the boiler.
That is really what I was worried about, some additional wear on something that I was not aware of.
The house is horribly non-insulated, and that has been on the list for a while. Might actually occur at the end of this season.
Again, appreciate the input all around.
I am more worried about 'breaking' something with the current hacked setup.
I will take a look around and see if I can figure out a heat-loss calc, but it seems like this is not necessarily going to cause additional (constant) cycles/calls to the boiler.
That is really what I was worried about, some additional wear on something that I was not aware of.
The house is horribly non-insulated, and that has been on the list for a while. Might actually occur at the end of this season.
Again, appreciate the input all around.
#9
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
And for the curious -
It is a pretty straightforward setup.
Please forgive my first attempt at diagramming - pretty sure pumps are triangles of some sort.
All of the zones are simple loops.
Outbound is a manifold just prior to the pumps.
Return is a manifold right next to the outbound.
1 is the main floor.
2 is a sunroom on the main floor that we keep set at a lower temp and keep the door closed for the most part.
The rest are 2nd floor for bedrooms, office, bath which are kept at varying points based on calendar and time of day.
Peace -
It is a pretty straightforward setup.
Please forgive my first attempt at diagramming - pretty sure pumps are triangles of some sort.
All of the zones are simple loops.
Outbound is a manifold just prior to the pumps.
Return is a manifold right next to the outbound.
1 is the main floor.
2 is a sunroom on the main floor that we keep set at a lower temp and keep the door closed for the most part.
The rest are 2nd floor for bedrooms, office, bath which are kept at varying points based on calendar and time of day.
Peace -
#10
Member
When all the pumps are idle, there will be gravity flow through the pump w/o a check valve. When one or more of the other pumps are running, there can be reverse flow through the pump w/o a check valve.
Buy a replacement IFC and install it.
Buy a replacement IFC and install it.