Need help wiring Honeywell zone valves

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  #1  
Old 02-20-15, 05:16 PM
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Need help wiring Honeywell zone valves

Hello I just recently moved to a new house. The old owner have installed 4 Honeywell V8043E1012 zone valves to a Hydro therm HC 165 gas boiler. For some unknown reason he had all 4 zone valves connected to only one thermostat controlling the whole house. I want to wire them properly having a separate thermostat for each zone. The wiring the previous owner did is a nightmare. I have undid the wiring and attempting to rewire first one zone to make sure it works. after connecting I can see and hear the zone motor running but I can't get the boiler to turn on when it calls for heat. there are 4 wires on the zone valve 2 yellow and 2 red. I connected One yellow wire to the transformer common and the other one goes to the t-stat. Then I connected the transformer hot to the other side of the t-stat to complete the circuit. I am not to sure about what to do do with the 2 red wires. any input will be appreciated. Thanks in advance
 
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Old 02-21-15, 05:51 PM
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Rock,here is a link that should help you ,check out page 6, also pay attention to the number of valves on one transformer.
http://s3.supplyhouse.com/manuals/13..._PROD_FILE.pdf
Geo
 
  #3  
Old 02-22-15, 02:18 AM
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Welcome to the forums.

I moved you over here to the boiler forum due to your zone valves.

The red wires are a normally open switch contact that closes when the valve is activated.
You'll be connecting all of the red lines in parallel then to the TT terminals of your aquastat.

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Old 02-22-15, 10:35 AM
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Where PJ's diagram shows "To Circulator or another valve" can also go to the T T terminals of the boiler.

This is more typical than running a circulator actually.

All the red wires are connected in parallel from each valve and to the T T terminals.

What aquastat is installed on your boiler?
 
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Old 02-22-15, 01:10 PM
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What aquastat is installed on your boiler?
All I can tell is it is a honeywell. I don't see any model number. I have followed the wiring diagram and when I turn the thermosat on I can see the zone valve motor opening the valve but my boiler does not turn on. I believe the terminals I put the red wires on are the tt terminals.When I connect the thermosat directly to these terminals the boiler comes on and the thermostat works.
 
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Old 02-22-15, 04:58 PM
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Do you have a Multi meter? If so check for continuity between 1 set of red wires at the valve during a call for heat from the Tstat that circuit should close.
Geo
 
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Old 02-23-15, 09:44 AM
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I tested the red wires with a multimeter and there is no reading. I had time to do a short test with the next zone valve and I am getting a reading with the multimeter I connected it to the boiler and the boiler now turns on and off with the thermostat. Is the first zone valve shot? Like I said before the valve does open and close when i turn it off and on. Can those red end wires be troubleshooted? or will I have to replace the zone valve? What about replacing only the motor? Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 02-23-15, 10:35 AM
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If the Red wires don't close then the switch is probably bad,check the manual I posted earlier on page 2 I believe, there maybe a limit switch that could be out of adjustment,not sure I am not that familiar with the Honeywell valves.
Geo
 
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Old 02-23-15, 11:01 AM
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What about replacing only the motor?
If the valve is opening and closing, the motor is fine.

will I have to replace the zone valve?
If the endswitch is bad, only the power head will need replaced, not the whole valve body.
 
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Old 02-23-15, 01:22 PM
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Hi NJ, there appears to be an end switch in that valve,is it adjustable or replaceable ?
Just curious.
Geo
 
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Old 02-23-15, 03:00 PM
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tonight or tomorrow morning I will troubleshoot the red end wires again Maybe if i am luck it might be a loose connection or sort. If it is a bad end switch how hard will it be to replace the power head?
 
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Old 02-23-15, 03:34 PM
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is it adjustable or replaceable ?
Some ppl have reported being able to bend something inside the head to get the cam to 'push it real good'.

Honeywell for a short time was selling the endwitch as a replacement part but last I saw that had been discontinued. It would be a PITA to change though because as I recall, it involved drilling out some rivets and replacing the switch using nut and screw.

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell...tch-for-Valves

If it is a bad end switch how hard will it be to replace the power head?
It depends on whether you have the 'new' or the 'old' style valves.

The OLD style has FOUR screws holding it to the valve body. This type requires either being able to isolate the valve from the system by valves on either side of it, or draining the system. Then, there is a $12 adapter kit that basically rebuilds the valve guts and allows the use of the 'new' style head. From then on, you won't have to drain again...

The NEW style is held on by TWO screws and has to 'locating pins'. These are a 5 minute job to change, no draining required.

40003916-026 - Honeywell 40003916-026 - Replacement Head for V8043E Zone Valves

The adapter kit:

40003918-006 - Honeywell 40003918-006 - 2 Way Powerhead Conversion Kit (Water)
 
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Old 02-23-15, 05:21 PM
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Everything is this house i brought is old so I am pretty sure it has the old style valves. if I determine that the end switch is bad I will pickup the powerhead conversion kit. Also
The transformer that's installed does not show which screw is common or hot. I don't know if the label came off during the years are what. Is there anyway to determine which screw is the common and hot?
 
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Old 02-23-15, 05:51 PM
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Is there anyway to determine which screw is the common and hot?
There really is no common or hot. The transformer secondary is isolated from the primary, so either one could be called either name.

I've got an errand to run, I'll come back later... but in the mean time I wanted to mention:

For some unknown reason he had all 4 zone valves connected to only one thermostat controlling the whole house.
Depending on exactly what the guy did, how he connected the one thermostat, it's possible that he has stressed the thermostat. If he has the current from all four valves running through the thermostat, you should know they aren't rated for that and it could be damaged...

BUT, there are ways to wire multiple valves such that the thermostat only 'sees' the load of one valve.

He may have had them 'leap frogged' so that the thermostat opens one valve, that valve opens the second, and so on... until the final valve opening operates the boiler.

Were any of the red wires originally connected to any of the yellow wires by chance?
 
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Old 02-23-15, 06:32 PM
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No it doesn't seem to be any wires red wires connected to any of the yellow.

These valves might be the new style valves I only see 2 screws.

I will start early tomorrow morning and disconnect all the zone valves. I will test each one to see if they are working and begin to reconnect each one correct. I will post back tomorrow with my results. Thanks for everyone's help.
 
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Old 02-23-15, 07:04 PM
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Here is a diagram showing 2 valves that might assist you getting that going. Just imagine two more valves wired the same way.

 
  #17  
Old 02-24-15, 11:43 AM
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I tested all 4 zone valves this morning. 2 is working and 2 are not. The ones that are not working both have a problem with the end switches. there is no continuity in the red wires. In one the motor seems to be working properly and in the other I hear a strange noise and there is no much resistance when I pull the switch. I was able to get to the back where the plate is to get to the head. There are 4 screws so I must have the older type valves. I am ready to order a motor and 2 two Way Powerhead Conversion Kits. Am i correct on the parts I might need to get these valves repaired?
 
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Old 02-24-15, 03:15 PM
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If you have two with bad endswitches, don't you need to order two complete power heads?

Just changing a motor isn't going to fix the endswitches.
 
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Old 02-24-15, 03:31 PM
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If you have two with bad endswitches, don't you need to order two complete power heads?
Are you saying the $12 powerhead conversion kit wont fix the bad end switches? and I need to buy 2 Replacement Heads for V8043E Zone Valves that you mentioned If so I misunderstood you therefore the correct parts I need is 2 complete power heads and 2 power head conversions if I what to make them compatible with the newer version power heads?
 
  #20  
Old 02-24-15, 03:39 PM
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Lol I must be tired from working on these valves. I probably won't need the conversion kit. the new complete power heads are the newer version correct? I'm placing the order now.
 
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Old 02-24-15, 03:41 PM
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Are you saying the $12 powerhead conversion kit wont fix the bad end switches?
That is correct. The conversion kit will only allow you to use the new power heads.

I probably won't need the conversion kit.
If there are FOUR screws holding on the old power heads, YES, then you DO need the kit.

Keep in mind that you will have to DRAIN the system, or otherwise ISOLATE the valves in order to install the conversion kits.

Can you post some pics of your system? We might be able to help further if we could see what you're working on.
 
  #22  
Old 02-24-15, 04:12 PM
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Okay I order 2 complete heads and 2 conversion kits.

I will work on posting some pictures
 
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