Hydrotherm HC 165-pilot light won't stay lit


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Old 02-26-15, 12:10 AM
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Hydrotherm HC 165-pilot light won't stay lit

Gee my house is freezing!
my pilot light on my boiler went out. When I lit the pilot. I hold the button in for at least a minute but it doesn't stay lit. I have a old Hydrotherm HC 165 boiler are parts still available for this dinosaur? Or is there a fix for this problem?
 
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Old 02-26-15, 05:37 AM
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Hello... Most likely it has a power pile. Sounds like that may be your issues,,,

Hope you fixed it already though...

Its not a normal thermocouple.. Looks like this.( Look for two wires at gas valve)

G01A-502 - White Rodgers G01A-502 - 750 Mv Power Pile Generator w/ 36" Leads w/ armor sleeve
 
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Old 02-26-15, 06:09 AM
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I was looking for the thermocouple last night! Okay it's not a normal looking thermocouple.
Yes the power pile generator looks like what is on my boiler.
I going to get one now. I pray it works. meanwhile how difficult will it be to install?
thanks.
 
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Old 02-26-15, 04:21 PM
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I installed the pile generator. The pilot light still doesn't stay on after depressing the button. What else could cause this to happen?
 
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Old 02-26-15, 05:11 PM
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Is the pilot fully engulfed in the power pile?? Is the pilot strong?

Ummm Maybe the gas valve itself...

Check that and post back..
 
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Old 02-26-15, 05:31 PM
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the pilot looks strong to me.
The pilot is fully engulfed in the power pile.

I will double check to make sure.
I don't know if this is considered a good test but I took a torch and lit it on the power pile while the pilot was lit for about a minute and the pilot still went out after I released the button. My gas valve is a honeywell VS820A1088. I was hoping that would not be the problem the cost for this model is a steep.
 
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Old 02-26-15, 05:49 PM
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VS820A1088 - Honeywell VS820A1088 - Standard PowerPile Millivolt Combination Gas Valve - 3/4" NPT x 3/4" NPT

Under $200 or so... IF that's the problem... but then unless you're feeling skilled enough to change the gas valve, you'll also have to pay someone to do that.


Do you own and know how to use a multimeter?
 
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Old 02-26-15, 06:08 PM
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NJ Trooper: I own a multimeter and I know a little about how to use it. Hey I been so busy with this problem with no heat that I forgot to post that I had success installing the replacement power heads. They seem to be working properly. I don't think installing zone valves would have anything with me not having a pilot light right?
 
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Old 02-26-15, 06:13 PM
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I don't think installing zone valves would have anything with me not having a pilot light right?
No, it shouldn't...

Does your meter have a MILLIVOLT scale?

Can you hook the meter to the thermopile leads?

When you're holding the button and the pilot is lit, read the voltage coming from the pile. It should be up near 700 MILLIVOLTS.
 
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Old 02-26-15, 09:06 PM
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If I did it correct it reading like 701-703 MILLVOLTS.
 
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Old 02-27-15, 06:14 AM
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If correct, it means that you are getting enough voltage from the pile...

Dunno? Gas valve maybe? Mike knows about these HydroTherms... he'll probably be by to advise.
 
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Old 02-27-15, 07:16 AM
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Well this was a brand new pile I tested and the old one is reading about the same. I went head and ordered the new gas valve. I keep you posted on the progress.
 
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Old 02-27-15, 05:45 PM
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I changed the gas valve but the pilot still is not staying lit. I was testing the terminals on the gas valve with a multimeter I am not reading anything. Are terminals suppose to show some current?
 
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Old 02-27-15, 07:28 PM
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hmmmm rock... I have to think about it... Maybe trooper can help me here... I know the wireing is very sensitive in the MV systems... There are two wires that run to the back of your boiler. These run inside the jacket to the gas valve. Often these connect to the t stat or relay/aquastat...

Can you take pics?


Are wires connected to this rear terminal area??? You will see it if you look...

On a side note... How long can you go with no heat???? is anyone living in the home>????
 
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Old 02-27-15, 08:19 PM
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Yes I do see the 2 wires (black and white) in back of the boiler.

I will try to get some pictures up tonight or tomorrow.

I will see if I can hold out a little longer now that we eliminated the thermo pile and the gas valve. I think we are getting close to figuring this out.

I am the only one here for now. If there was kids.animals. etc I would have no choice but to pay a professional to figure it out.

the wires that go to the gas valve are showing no readings. I don't know but I was thinking that it should some constant current.
 
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Old 02-28-15, 07:47 AM
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Here are some pictures.

I took a shot of the old gas gauge because it has 4 terminals 2 TH and PP. The new one has only 3 terminals. 1TH and 1PP and the 3rd terminal has TH/PP. Not sure on how to wire to the new gas terminal.
 
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Old 02-28-15, 10:42 AM
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I think first step is to have the gas valve terminals wired correctly then test to see if it works before I proceed anymore troubleshooting. Anyone can help me on the wiring? The terminals are marked TH, PP and TH/PP
 
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Old 02-28-15, 10:56 AM
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First, have you PROPERLY LEAK TESTED the gas connections to the valve?

Proceed no further if you have not!

Next, there should have been instructions with wiring diagram ( figure 4 ? ) included with the new valve.
 
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Old 02-28-15, 10:56 AM
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R,
One tstat air goes on TH, one power pile wire goes on PP. The remaining 2 wires go on the third terminal.
If you just hook up the 2 PP wires for now the pilot should stay lit.
 
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Old 02-28-15, 10:59 AM
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Here is a diagram.. Your connections are diiferent here..

From top to bottom on gas valve as shown in pic.

Top down

th/pg
pg
th

 
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Old 02-28-15, 11:02 AM
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The wires that go to that back board are your t stat wires.

Actually your t stat goes into the gray Honeywell relay box. Then from there go to that board.

Those wires should come out down inside the jacket of the boiler and come out near the gas valve...

So treat those two wires as your t stat...

Wire as I stated below.

Power pile to pg and to th/pg
High limit to th
One wire from back board to th/pg
Other wire from back board gets wire nutted with other end of high limit..
 
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Old 02-28-15, 01:04 PM
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lawrosa your wiring was right on point.

I am backup and running.

I check and there doesn't seem to be any leaks thanks for your concern NJ trooper.

Thanks to everyone with there input.

I am just going to take a break now and let the house heat up! it's been without heat for a few days now.

I will be back for more help latter. Thanks.
 
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Old 02-28-15, 01:53 PM
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I check and there doesn't seem to be any leaks thanks for your concern NJ trooper.
Rock, just to ease that concern a bit more, would you please explain HOW you checked for gas leaks?

You really can't say that there don't SEEM to be any leaks, you have to be able to confidently, and from a position of authority, say "There ARE NO LEAKS"!
 

Last edited by NJT; 02-28-15 at 02:53 PM.
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Old 02-28-15, 02:30 PM
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lawrosa your wiring was right on point.

I am backup and running.

Great news... Im glad to have helped...
 
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Old 02-28-15, 04:36 PM
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Trooper I tested with soap and water and no bubbles. I also going to order a gas leak detector this weekend for testing the gas valve and also the rest of the gas pipes. Would one of does detectors in the $30 range do the job?
 
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Old 02-28-15, 05:04 PM
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Would one of does detectors in the $30 range do the job?
Honestly, I have no idea how good they are.
 
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Old 02-28-15, 05:38 PM
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I thought I was out the freezer. Now the boiler won't cut back on. I noticed at first it was taking a longer than normal for it to kick back on now it won't come back on. If I shut down for a while it will come back on but after it runs and cut off it doesn't come back on itself. I noticed this problem a while back before. An idea what could cause that to happen? I think I going to need a new boiler Iwas trying to hold out till the summer time.
 
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Old 02-28-15, 06:10 PM
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Try adjusting the aquastat up and down... make sure to set at 180F cut off...

Often you need to move the wheel up and down a few times. Or it may be shot... They are cheap enough to replace...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]47340[/ATTACH]
 
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Old 03-01-15, 07:40 AM
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I tried adjusting the aquastat up and down but with no success. I did notice while move it up and down at around 220 the boiler kicked in. I then moved it back at 180. If my eyes didn't fail me it look like the model number is L4080b-11052. I can't seem to locate this model maybe because the old one is a dinosaur. Do I need to replace it with the exact model? or is there a replacement? Most of the supply stores are closed today (Sunday) So it would be great if I can locate one today and get a early start in the morning. On a side note before all of these problems I did notice every once in a while the same problem occurring but after cutting the system off for a couple of minutes things pretty much went back to normal.
 
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Old 03-01-15, 12:02 PM
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Old 03-01-15, 12:42 PM
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Okay thanks. I will pick this up in the morning. Is this preset? or if I have to adjust it what settings should I set it for?
 
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Old 03-03-15, 09:37 AM
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Everything is connected the boiler seems to be running normal but now I an only getting heat from one zone (the basement) My zones on the 2nd and 3rd floor are not giving heat. I check the zone valves and I have them manually opened. I am trying to bleed the zones but with no success so far.
 

Last edited by rock13979; 03-03-15 at 11:49 AM.
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Old 03-03-15, 05:09 PM
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What's the pressure gauge on the boiler reading now?

Can you show us some closer pics with a bit better lighting so we can see what valves you have to be able to help you get those other zones heating?
 
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Old 03-03-15, 06:27 PM
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Thanks for responding Trooper.
I got the heat working. I was purging the system backwards.
I keep the pressure around 18 to 20 being that this is a 4 story house and it's cold.
 
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Old 03-03-15, 08:05 PM
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FOUR stories? 18-20 may be enough when the system is COLD, is that what you mean? It surely must be higher than that when the system is HOT, yes?
 
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Old 03-04-15, 01:26 AM
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What was trying to say is when the temperature is cold outside like below freezing I find raising the pressure at 18 to 20 helps the heat to reach the top floors.
 
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Old 03-04-15, 09:31 AM
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What I'm saying is that you most likely need that pressure ALL the time, not just when it's cold outside.
 
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Old 03-04-15, 09:51 AM
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Okay thanks for the advice.
 
 

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