Oil furnace not responding correctly to thermostat.


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Old 02-26-15, 09:13 PM
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Oil furnace not responding correctly to thermostat.

This is a very old furnace and I admit I am still rather clueless about this type of heating system. I have a bunch of images but figured I'd get started just describing the problem. It's an oil furnace with baseboards throughout the house and also heats the hot water for the house, no water heater around here. Unfortunately.

Last year the furnace would not kick on despite how high the thermostat was set. It would heat hot water just fine, but cold baseboards, and resulted in frozen pipe in the very drafty kitchen which is an uninsulated add on. Once the frozen pipe was cleared the heat still wouldn't turn on to heat anything so someone else came out and replaced the recirculating pump with a TACO cartridge circulator, 007-F5.

Last week the same problem began. Hot water, no warmth, ice cold baseboards, pump making a humming/buzzing sound. Same guy came out, unfroze kitchen pipe and afterwards they were slightly warm but furnace not responding when adjusting thermostat. After a day or so they did all heat up nicely and water would go through them. All good, everything is fixed.

However, towards the end of last week on Sunday night we noticed it was really really warm in here. We keep the heat set between 62-66 depending and while it snowed last Saturday, it went up to 50 on Sunday and sunny so we figured maybe that was why. We soon realized, the furnace kept coming on like every 10-15 minutes. All the baseboards were very hot and although we lowered the thermostat to 50 at one point just to see what happens, it kept on going and was nearly 80 in here. This has NOT stopped. 25 gals was just put into the tank last week and it's about to run out now because it hasn't stopped turning on.

Is this a recirculating pump problem? Thermostat problem? The pump was just replaced last year so I don't know how it could be that. Again, the furnace is a way old Richmond boiler, probably older than 40-45 years.

My parents are both disabled seniors and simply cannot afford to buy $100 weekly nor replace this beast. Having a narrowed down idea what could be wrong might help me out a great deal.

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Old 02-26-15, 09:34 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

I moved your thread to the boiler forum and you don't have a furnace.

It's Thursday.... has this been heating like this since Sunday ?

At this point we need to find out if the circulator pump is not shutting off or if the antisiphon valve is stuck open. The valve keeps the hot water from gravity circulating when the pump isn't running.
 
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Old 02-26-15, 10:08 PM
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Ohhh ok, thank you. Like I said, I am still a bit confused about what, exactly, the heating system is and how it operates. You are correct, it has been heating like this since Sunday at some point, as if the thermostat is set to like 75 or 78 so while it doesn't stay running without stopping, it keeps going on. Normally 25 gals in normal winter temps lasts about 4 weeks give or take, not a week!!

Yes it has been cold but not that cold lol.

Both you suggested sound like common issues I read about when briefly trying to google possible problems. The pump, when the heat would NOT turn on when turning the thermostat up, was making that noise and then it stopped doing that and the baseboards were hot so I figured ok, all is well now. Guess not.

I did not watch the man do the work last week when there was a frozen pipe, is it possible he opened a valve that he should have shut or not left open as much when he turned the system back on?

I could take additional images of the valves and pipes as I am not sure what goes where.
 
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Old 02-26-15, 10:12 PM
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Additional pictures would be a big help.

If you were to stand next to the furnace with your ear near to the circulator pump..... you should be able to hear it start and stop as someone operated the thermostat. You could also put the flat end of a screwdriver against the pump and rest the handle in your ear.
 
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Old 02-26-15, 10:51 PM
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The thermostat is right at the top of the basement stairs so I was showing my mum how when you turn it up or down you hear a click at certain points. I don't hear that constant humming, now, but last week before the heat was going back on I could hear it. I will have my mother turn the thermostat while I stand there and listen. Will also get additional images, my battery was dying so I had to plug the phone in to charge for a while. What images would be most helpful?

Ok so I was right, before going down I showed her what we did earlier, when we turn the thermostat up (at this point up to about 80 before it happens) it clicks and the pump turns on. I turned it down first and went down with a screwdriver and did what you said while she turned it back up and when it clicked I heard it on, a faint humming and water inside. When she turned it down it clicked off though I could still hear the water a little.
 

Last edited by handybean; 02-26-15 at 10:55 PM. Reason: Additional details
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Old 02-26-15, 11:31 PM
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But you heard the hum stop..... correct ? That means that the pump and controls are working normally.

Take a picture or two or three of the plumbing right above the boiler. When we see what we 're looking for you could always take another picture.
 
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Old 02-27-15, 01:44 AM
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I will. It's pretty late so I'm sure you will be signing off til later but I'll upload the images. Normally I just know from experience, if it's say 64 in here and I turn the thermostat up slightly over that, it will turn on. If I turn it below that, it will shut off. So good that the pump seems to be working, difficult to imagine what else it could be outside of incorrect signals going to the system from the thermostat. It really seems like a matter of mis-communication between the temp and furnace. I keep rehashing the same point but it's very frustrating. Here are some more images from further away, tried to get a full-on view so you can see what comes from where.

And yes... that is a radiator hose from a car you see hanging down towards a bin. Last year we had a problem where there was scolding hot water spewing from the boiler all over the basement floor so that's why my dad put the bin there and the hose, to direct it into the bin. Luckily that stopped but what a mess. He'd have to keep going down to check it and cart off bins and buckets of murky hot water to dump. So far this year (knock wood) it has not done this, but he keeps it there just in case.

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Old 02-27-15, 01:56 AM
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When you end the call for heat..... the pump stops circulating. As the radiators/baseboards cool off upstairs...... that cooler water falls to the basement and the hot boiler water rises. It's called thermo siphoning. The red item circled in the picture below is what stops that water movement when the pump is not running.

Trooper, the forum pro, will stop by and advise on the best course of action.

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Old 02-27-15, 03:29 AM
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Just throwing this in there while waiting for next course of action. It took a while to find this again but figured I'd just to share what I had read a couple nights ago online regarding the thermostat cause both kinda sound like they might be the issue. In the event it should be either of the following two issues we are dealing with:

Furnace Turns On and Off Frequently ("short cycling")
Possible Causes

Dirty thermostat components
Heat anticipator not set correctly.


Possible Repairs

Remove thermostat cover and gently clean components especially the bimetallic coil and the switch contact surfaces if the thermostat does not have a mercury switch.
To adjust the heat anticipator, please see Heat Anticipator Adjustment.

Heat Either Does Not Reach or Exceeds the Set Temperature
Possible Causes

Thermostat mounted crooked.
Heat anticipator not set correctly.


Possible Repairs

Remove cover of thermostat and loosen screws holding unit to wall. Level the thermostat. Re-tighten screws and replace cover.
To adjust the heat anticipator, please see Heat Anticipator Adjustment.
From Causes, Cures For Common Oil Furnace Problems
 
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Old 02-27-15, 06:10 AM
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That Tstat could be put in a museum,but if it is out of level or dirty that would cause your temperature's to be out of spec's with regards to your settings, but it does seem to be controlling the boiler ie. starting and stopping.
A basic electronic programable Tsat might be a good replacement,battery powered.
Geo
 
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Old 02-27-15, 12:57 PM
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H,
If you are not nervous about electricity turn the boiler off with the service switch on the boiler.
Take the cover off the gray Honeywell aquastat on the front of the boiler.
Up in the corner you will see your tstat wire going to two terminals marked TT.
remove either one of those wires temporarily and that will disconnect the tstat from the control.
Turn boiler back on. With this wire removed it will not let your pump run but the boiler will operate for hot water.
If you continue to get heat upstairs it will be because of the flocheck (circled valve) has either been opened manually or is defective.
It shouldn't take to long to find out. If that's your problem every time the boiler calls for hot water it's leaking by that valve and sending hot water upstairs. This is why the boiler keeps cycling.
Good Luck,
 
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Old 02-27-15, 04:34 PM
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Don't forget..... this boiler also has a tankless coil in it for domestic hot water.
 
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Old 02-27-15, 04:42 PM
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P,
Read the whole previous post. I believe it was addressed.
 
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Old 02-27-15, 05:06 PM
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I'm with Pete on this one.

I believe that from what I've read (the whole thread) that your FLOW-CHECK valve is either manually opened by the service guy and forgot to close again, OR the weighted disc is stuck open.

That's the red thing that Pete circled in post #8

Does the handle on the top of that valve turn? Or is it corroded such that you can't turn it?

If you CAN turn the handle, and find that it is not turned FULLY CLOCKWISE, then DO SO until it stops. This will put the valve in the 'automatic' position if it is not already.

Let us know what you find...
 
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Old 02-27-15, 05:07 PM
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After you get this problem sorted out, you are going to need to COMPLETELY drain that large tank in the ceiling, but one thing at a time... we'll get to that later.
 
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Old 02-27-15, 08:06 PM
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I'm digesting these responses at the moment. My mum is against my tampering with the electrical only because it's so old and we aren't sure how faulty it may or may not be. What I *can* tell you is that the wiring from the tstat to the panel on the boiler is fabric covered. Was examining it from the outside a short while ago and can even see from a hole on the top where the wire goes in where it screws on as you were describing. I'm honestly not sure how it's safe to even though this thing cause the wire isn't covered and touches the metal.

This is the valve in question, correct?
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What does this one do?
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This is the aquastat, correct?
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This is what the tstat looks like under the cover.
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Before bed I thought the tank had gone empty cause it was starting tog et cold in here but then I heard it go on a couple times and the baseboards warmed up again. We got more oil today and it's not as hot as it has been. it's about 70 and set on 60. I tinkered with the anticipator thing on the thermostat which yes, I agree, should be replaced by a new one. I don't know if that helped at all. It has the mercury thing inside, even.
 
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Old 02-27-15, 08:22 PM
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I doubt you have a thermostat problem. Those things are old and just about bulletproof.

However.... that flo control valve looks to have seen better days. That will need to be replaced.
The other red device is the water fill reducing valve.

Very easy way to check the thermostat for accuracy. Turn the lights off in the room. Turn the thermostat up slowly until you see a small spark in the mercury tube. The setting should be near the room temperature.
 
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Old 02-27-15, 08:28 PM
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This is the valve in question, correct?
Yes, that is correct. It looks as if it's been leaking around the stem, and that someone has had pliers on that shaft *(which USED TO HAVE a knob on it)*. So there is suspicion that it has been turned and might be set for GRAVITY FLOW which is what we (I) suspect is overheating the home.

What does this one do?
The other red valve is a PRESSURE REDUCING VALVE and it is what drops your city water pressure down to that which the boiler requires. (12-15 PSI when the boiler is COLD, higher when hot)

This is the aquastat, correct?
Yes it appears to be so.

I tinkered with the anticipator thing on the thermostat
Set it back to where it was, it's not part of the problem you are having.

I agree, should be replaced by a new one
Why? it still works, right? Yes, I'm sure it does. Leave it alone.

I'm honestly not sure how it's safe to even though this thing cause the wire isn't covered and touches the metal.
Those thermostat wires are LOW VOLTAGE and not 'unsafe'. Missing the fabric covering is no big deal because the wires themselves have insulation on them... probably plastic, probably fine.
 
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Old 02-27-15, 08:46 PM
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I just did it. The temp is SET to 60, the temp of the room according to that says 70. I turned the lights off but didn't even need to, I turned it up slowly and when it reached 70 it clicked and the recirculating pump went on and it sparked and went off when I turned it below 70 so I guess it is working.
 
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Old 02-27-15, 08:50 PM
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When I turn that valve, its on the top, do I just use a wrench to turn it or is there a specific wrench I'd need for it? I've not seen any sort of leaking in that spot, it may have and I wasn't around when it happened and maybe happened previously but it looks dry to me, now. Replacing is pretty much out of the question, it's not something I would be able to tackle but will try closing it. Is it possible that he opened it on purpose, if it's open?

Wondering if it's possible if the guy opened it because some other issue was causing the lack of heat we were dealing with last week and that was his cheap quick way of getting the heat back up without fixing anything even though it's now causing this problem. Just to give you an idea... he put a little electric space heater, the kind that blows hot air, in the crawl space under the kitchen where the pipe froze and left it plugged in and on. He's not really a professional I don't think and have no idea what he did or didn't do. Wishing I had now.
 
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Old 02-27-15, 09:12 PM
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H,
There should be a rubber gromet in the hole where the tstat goes to the control.
Under that fabric is another covering so unless it's all stripped you're safe.
Although you control is powered by line voltage(110v) the TT terminals are only 24v and with the power off there is no danger and it would tell you that most likely it is the flocheck.
One thing you can check is that the tstat wire going into the aquastat isn't completely bare and touching each other.
That is just like jumping the tstat out and it will act as if the tstat is calling.
Most likely not the problem but worth a check and separate if it looks close.
If wires are that bad they'll have to be cut back and redone for good connections.
There would have been no reason for him to open it unless he wanted gravity flow temporarily to keep water running through the pipes but he should have closed it when he was done.
Before you play with it you could give him a call. If he didn't touch it there's no need for you too unless it's being replaced. There is supposed to be a red handle on that stem that's missing. I don't believe it has a slot for a screwdriver and good be difficult to move.
Good Luck,
 
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Old 02-28-15, 10:32 AM
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do I just use a wrench to turn it or is there a specific wrench I'd need for it?
There used to be a knob on there. You should be able to turn it with a pair of pliers. If it does not turn EASILY in EITHER direction, DO NOT FORCE IT!

Is it possible that he opened it on purpose, if it's open?
When he 'bled' the air out of the system after he did the work, he may have opened that and forgotten to close it again.

He MAY have also thought it would be a GOOD thing to leave it open so that there was always some GRAVITY flow which might keep the pipes from freezing again, and not realizing that it would provide TOO MUCH gravity flow and overheat the home.

Why don't you call him and ask? You probably paid him good money!

he put a little electric space heater, the kind that blows hot air, in the crawl space under the kitchen where the pipe froze and left it plugged in and on. He's not really a professional I don't think
Ummmm... isn't that a fire hazard? To leave an electric space heater unattended and turned on? Yeah, sounds like you're right, not a professional. No professional that I know would take that risk.

I think you should consider finding a professional, even though it will cost you a few bucks.

My advice is to TURN OFF AND UNPLUG that space heater immediately!
 
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Old 02-28-15, 10:37 AM
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I've not seen any sort of leaking in that spot, it may have and I wasn't around when it happened and maybe happened previously but it looks dry to me, now
The streaks and mineral deposits tell the story. Even if it's not leaking now, it was at some point.

When heating systems leak, you almost never actually see any water because it's hot and evaporates before it hits the floor.

The telltale mineral deposits are what let's us know that it was, or possibly still is, leaking.

It's an easy fix actually that doesn't require replacing the device entirely, it is probably only the 'packing' around the stem of the valve.
 
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Old 03-01-15, 12:01 AM
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When he 'bled' the air out of the system after he did the work, he may have opened that and forgotten to close it again.
This is what I was thinking.

So... it kinda seems somewhat better... but it is starting to get too warm in here, again. It doesn't seem like the heat is kicking on as much but the temp has risen to 74 and when I was testing the thermostat again, it was up near 80 maybe slightly above before it clicked.

I really wanna try adjusting that valve and am a little hesitant. Actually not entirely sure what specific part I would need to turn. It's also hot, so...

Our thinking is that if the heat won't turn off even when we set the temp down to like 0, will it keep going on like this all summer?? I want to attempt the valve issue first and see if that makes a difference but might go out and buy a new digital thermostat anyway, once I start working next week. Does the boiler have to be off when I turn the valve? It's too bad I can't do this with someone here to show me or do this on skype so you can direct me.

I thought there *might* be a correlation to having our portable oil filled space heater on in the room where the tstat lives. When I turned it on, the heat seemed to stop going on as much and it's like I've always tried to explain about space heaters, that that is warming the room temp and telling the tstat it's warming in here than it really is so it fools it into thinking it doesn't need to go on. Hence it didn't go on and the rest of the house cooled down a bit. It's very warm in here right now but we just turned the space heater off after being on for several hours.

He did bleed the pipes, he said there was air in them and I could tell cause until then, every time the heat went on it sounded like the flood gates had opened in all the rooms from the sound of the water going through. I said to my mother, perhaps this house is warmer now *because* he bled the pipes and they simply weren't heating properly before?

I'm still not 100% certain there isn't some sort of miscommunication with the tstat because if there wasn't, being set on 60 it wouldn't be going on. I'm less hesitant to try turning that valve than shutting off the power to the boiler and messing with the electric. My other thought right now, is what else could be the problem supposing the valve is closed and the tstat is not bad?
 

Last edited by handybean; 03-01-15 at 12:29 AM.
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Old 03-01-15, 12:40 AM
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Those thermostat wires are LOW VOLTAGE and not 'unsafe'. Missing the fabric covering is no big deal because the wires themselves have insulation on them... probably plastic, probably fine.
No plastic, way too old for that. This wire looks to be just frayed dusty fabric and metal wire.
 
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Old 03-01-15, 09:05 AM
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Inside that dusty old fabric should be a red and white wire covered in some type of insulation.

Many boilers are set up for cold start. That means when you call for heat.... the boiler starts to heat the water. If there was no call for heat... the boiler would get cold.

However.... in your case you have a warm start boiler since you're using the same boiler for domestic hot water. Your boiler will maintain a minimum water temperature which means it will run no matter where the thermostat is set to keep the domestic coil hot.

This continuous heating of the boiler is what makes the tankless coil such an energy waster and inefficient way way to heat water for domestic use.
 
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Old 03-01-15, 10:34 AM
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H,
You're making this worse than it has to be.
If you're nervous about removing the tstat wire you can just remove the tstat from the base by loosening the 3 small screws on there. Do not try to remove the screws, just loosen enough to remove the round part. There are no wire connected to this part. The wires are on the base on the wall.
By doing that there can be no heat call.
Now go down celler and if the pipe stays hot after that flocheck water is leaking by every time the boiler comes on for the domestic hot water.
With the tstat off that pipe should not be hot if the flocheck is working. Without fixing the problem it will do that all summer because the boiler will for hot water.
 
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Old 03-01-15, 10:56 AM
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OR, stop over thinking this and grab a pair of pliers and get hold of that brass shaft that's sticking out the top of that flow check valve and first see if it can be turned in either direction.

If it CAN be fairly easily turned, then turn it CLOCKWISE until it stops.

Speculate all that you want to, but until you know whether or not that valve is open to gravity flow or not, you are wasting time thinking about it.

It's called "Paralysis by Analysis". You think and think and think, and end up doing nothing.
 
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Old 03-01-15, 05:41 PM
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Ok so this is my third time writing this response lol. Having log in issues I guess. It gets shorter each time. Last night all I could find were needle nose pliers and went down to try turning it but they wouldn't grip the stem tight enough without slipping. If where I need to turn the stem "A" is indicted by arrow "B" than I was correct.

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Will have to look more thoroughly for the better pair of grips or just go buy a pair new. I am going to contact the manufacturer of that valve (Bell and Gossett is apparently still in business) and see if/how to get a replacement turn handle for it.

While I was down there I was listenin for a few minutes and swear I hear a consistent drip noise inside the boiler. Cannot see any water on the outside of it but it got me thinking about last year when the hot water was coming out of it. As I previously explained, my father got an old auto radiator hose and rigged it up to where the water was coming out to direct it to a bucket to be dumped as needed. The problem got remedied but before that, after the boiler ran for a long time it would come out as a trickle and there was a puddle of moisture on the floor from underneath. Fortunately I still have the web video on my computer of this and uploaded it.

Don't know that it was but could this problem have been related to the same valve? My understanding it had something to do with pressure, I was just curious though.

You can see at approx. :35 where the hose is clamped to the pipe on top where the hot water was coming from, initially.

http://youtu.be/Sx-zE9S_jHQ
 
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Old 03-01-15, 05:54 PM
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If where I need to turn the stem "A" is indicted by arrow "B"
Grab it with the pliers at " A "

I am going to contact the manufacturer of that valve (Bell and Gossett is apparently still in business) and see if/how to get a replacement turn handle for it.
Good luck with that. I'll eat my hat if they help you!

The problem with the water dripping out is that there was too much pressure in the boiler due to the expansion tank being waterlogged.
 
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Old 03-01-15, 05:54 PM
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The water comes out dangerously hot from our faucets. Which can be good like when cleaning or in need of a hot bath but it's hot enough to make a cup of tea with right from the tap. Just measured the temp of the water and it read at 190 degrees. That's very hot. Perhaps if there was a way to lower the WATER temperature that could help keep the thing from kicking on.

We hate this system but it's what we are stuck with. If there was a separate water heater it would be a much different story. Two separate services, easier to define where the problem is and minimize oil usage.
 
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Old 03-01-15, 06:02 PM
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The water comes out dangerously hot from our faucets.
Yes, I'm sure it does. You apparently do not have a 'tempering valve' installed on the hot water to the home.

Someone, and especially your parents if they are elderly, is going to end up with serious burns at some point.

Perhaps if there was a way to lower the WATER temperature that could help keep the thing from kicking on.
There may be... but not ALWAYS. There's a long explanation that I'm not going into at this time, but when the boiler is heating the home, the water will always be upwards of 180F.

The gray aquastat box shown here:



Turn power OFF to the boiler (if you know how, if you don't, then DO NOT do this!, but you SHOULD know how to turn off power to the boiler in an emergency)

There is ONE screw that secures that gray cover. I believe you will find it on the bottom. LOOSEN, but do not remove that screw.

SLIDE the cover straight off and take a picture of the inside. Clear enough that we can read the dials that are in there.

When you replace that cover, make sure that the silver end panels are INSIDE the lip of the cover as shown in the picture. It's easy to put the cover on incorrectly.
 
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Old 03-01-15, 09:53 PM
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Someone, and especially your parents if they are elderly, is going to end up with serious burns at some point.
Do doubt, it's happened to all of us a couple times, having the water on too hot and touching it. Not to mention my mom said last time we used the hot water with the washing machine it started shooting out from one of the pipes, so she said never to use it.

But... just now I was down there doing laundry and found the other pliers and gave it a go. The stem turned very easily actually and I must've turned it about 5-6 times and didn't feel like it was getting tighter. What if it's so corroded it *won't* close anymore? Like a stripped screw?

Then while doing that the washer stopped filling and the cold water shut off. This is pretty intense with regards to pressure in the pipes, I know, but one of the pipes along the side of the boiler started shaking and I got a little nervous so I turned the stem back counterclockwise out of nervousness. The pipe that was shaking is arrowed.

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Old 03-01-15, 10:14 PM
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Turn power OFF to the boiler (if you know how, if you don't, then DO NOT do this!, but you SHOULD know how to turn off power to the boiler in an emergency)
This is the only switch I can find. If there was one on the boiler, it's been disabled. When the power is turned back on, I don't need to do anything special, do I?

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Old 03-01-15, 10:29 PM
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I'd say the reason that pipe is shaking is because there is no hanger at the top of it to support it properly from the floor joist. That pipe is the domestic hot water line that feeds the house. Your washer valve closing upset it.

You can close that red valve again. That has nothing to do with that pipe.

Nothing special.... just turn the switch back on.
 
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Old 03-01-15, 10:37 PM
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Thanks PJ, that's what I was thinking, timing was coincidental. When the washer was on final spin it was shaking too so I guess it was the vibration from that.
 
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Old 03-02-15, 06:27 AM
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This comment is being made before reading all the replies... sorry if there is duplication...

I must've turned it about 5-6 times and didn't feel like it was getting tighter. What if it's so corroded it *won't* close anymore? Like a stripped screw?
NO. Turn that top shaft CLOCKWISE (looking at it from the top) until it stops turning. Yes, it will take a number of turns. Don't FORCE it when you get to the end, just turn it until it stops.

Don't be nervous.
 
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Old 03-02-15, 03:51 PM
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Well I just went down stairs and it took MANY many small turns cause there is a pipe sort of in the way and suspect maybe that's why the handle was removed at some point but eventually it stopped turning. We just turned the heat up and it went on although its 66 in here and we had to turn it to 68 for it to go on, and it went on. We heard the water start going through the baseboards, so we shall see. If this works I told my mum she can pay me back for my Chinese food the other night as payment lol. I'd still like to get a new thermostat though. Will keep you updated, not sure what to expect now. The house has not been as hot as it was last week, it's intermittent.

*UPDATE*

The boiler seems very busy, right now. Lots of water flow noise and it turned on than stopped and I heard water either going through the pump or in the boiler than it came back on again. I hope we didn't make a mistake by messing with it. Holding our breath right now to see what happens and no, when I turned the thermostat back down to 60 it did NOT turn off. So it seems to turn on with no probs now but won't turn off. Again, it's intermittent with this issue, too. Just like when it would NOT turn on despite how high we turned up the temp. I have a guy who might be able to come out and deal with the tstat pretty cheaply since I am so leery about messing with wiring, myself. Will look into it.
 
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Old 03-02-15, 04:41 PM
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I've mentioned this several times but it seems you haven't read it or understand it. The boiler may start firing, even with the thermostat turned down, because of you hot water coil. This is 100% normal. Also, if your boiler is up to temperature already when you turn the thermostat up.... the boiler may not fire right away but the pump should start running.
 
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Old 03-02-15, 04:48 PM
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I hope we didn't make a mistake by messing with it.
No, you did not.

What you did was the correct thing to do, you will find that the home no longer overheats, I'm sure.

I am also sure that you have multiple problems with that poorly maintained boiler, such as a waterlogged expansion tank for one... and probably others too.

The air you hear gurgling around is NOT a result of turning that valve to where it is SUPPOSED TO BE.

Pay attention to PJ too, he knows.

Leave the thermostat alone. It's working properly. Don't fix it, it ain't broke.
 
 

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