No heat on 2nd floor after installing new zone valve


  #1  
Old 10-02-15, 12:05 PM
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No heat on 2nd floor after installing new zone valve

I apologize if my descriptions are lackluster, but I'm not the most boiler-savvy person out there lol.

I have an oil boiler that I needed to change the zone valve that controlled the heat to my 2nd floor. The issue was that the powerhead was messed up and I would have to manually turn it on occasionally for it to start working again automatically... Like the motor would get stuck. The heat on the 2nd floor would work after we did this.

This was an older Honeywell valve that required the ENTIRE fixture to be replaced... So, based off some advice from another post, I purchased the 2-way powerhead conversion kit and swapped it out.

I had to drain all the water out of my system in order to install the new conversion kit and the new powerhead. I completed the install, hooked up the wires as they were before, and tested it (worked fine).

I then reopened the water intake valve (from my well to the boiler) and the valve that brought the water back in after going through the house and ran the boiler. It turns on and heats up fine when the new zone valve calls for it.

The issue that I have is that although the boiler kicks on and the zone valve is open... The water only goes 10 down the pipe and then that's it. It goes from hot, to warm, to cold as you move down it. I bled all the air (there was a lot of it) out of the pipe until the water got warm but that was it... It never got hot.

To me, it seems like the water doesn't have enough power to make it all the way upstairs to heat my 2nd floor now since changing out the zone valve.

The heat on the first floor works fine, but the bedrooms are on the 2nd floor and I would like to get it fixed before it gets cold tonight and tomorrow. As a last resort I could call for service, but I would like to try and save some money first with your help... Let me know, thanks!

I read some other posts on here which recommends checking the pressure gauge when it's cold and see where it's at, which I'm going to do when I get home... As I didn't have time to wait for it to cool off before I left for work this AM. I just want to have a conversation started for if and when I do that.

I'm currently at work, but I can upload pictures when I get home.

I'm sorry for how long this is, but I just want to make sure I get you all the info required.


System Info
Zone Valves: 2 (1 for Upstairs / 1 for downstairs)
Expansion tank: Yes (looks like a propane tank)
Pipe Bleeders: Yes, 1 upstairs and 1 downstairs
 
  #2  
Old 10-02-15, 12:25 PM
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It is almost certain that your problem is air binding. Some systems are quite difficult to bleed the air from and others are almost impossible, requiring what is called "power purging" to remove the air.

Pictures will help, they need to be well lit and in focus. We need them to be from far enough away as to be able to see how the various components are connected. Further, we need the temperature and pressure in the boiler when cold and when at operating temperature. The approximate distance (in feet) from the bottom of the boiler to the highest piping point is also helpful.
 
  #3  
Old 10-03-15, 05:59 AM
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Just wanted to give an update, I preformed a power purge on that line and it worked like a dream. Thanks!
 
 

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