Boiler not firing


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Old 10-21-15, 08:29 AM
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Boiler not firing

I have a hot water baseboard heat. The boiler is not firing. I have jumped both thermostats an the boiler still doesn't turn on. I then jumped the zone valve for the 1st zone and the boiler fires. Anyone have any ideas?
 
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Old 10-21-15, 08:37 AM
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could a moderator please move this thread
 
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Old 10-21-15, 08:50 AM
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these pics show what I did to jump the zone valve
 
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Old 10-21-15, 10:11 AM
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these pics show what I did to jump the zone valve
Tired old eyes... you've got the clip lead on the ES (ENDSWITCH) terminals?

Sounds as if the zone valves aren't opening, or BOTH of the endswitches are bad.

Valves not opening could be a bad transformer.

Do you own and know how to use a multimeter?
 
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Old 10-21-15, 10:25 AM
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I own a multimeter. if you tell mehow to set it I can use it.
 
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Old 10-21-15, 10:34 AM
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Set it to measure AC VOLTS.

Find the transformer that runs the zone valves. It may be on the wall or on the ceiling near the valves. There should be two screws on it. Check to see that you have 24 VAC (as high as maybe 28.5 is OK) on those two screws.
 
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Old 10-21-15, 10:35 AM
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Before you do that though...

You should be able to HEAR if the valve is opening when a helper turns up the thermostat. You should hear the motor running and the gears whirring.
 
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Old 10-21-15, 11:41 AM
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I did the thermostat. no noises from the valves
 
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Old 10-21-15, 11:45 AM
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I also have 24 volts off the transformer
 
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Old 10-21-15, 12:28 PM
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If neither of the valves are responding to their respective thermostat then when the thermostat is turned all the way up, check for 24VAC on the TH and TR terminals of the zone valve.

There is a terminal labeled TH/TR, you don't need to measure that one.

Start looking for broken wires. If there are wire nuts connecting all the wires, remove them one at a time and make sure none of the wires are broken inside the wire nut.
 
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Old 10-21-15, 01:00 PM
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this is what I did. when I touched the two probes to the end switch screws I got 27 volts. along the top from left to right the screws are labeled th, tr, and I don't know what the third screw was labeled. when I connected screw 1 and 2 I got nothing. when I connected 1 and 3 I got 27. when I connected 2 and 3 I got 27.
 
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Old 10-21-15, 01:16 PM
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I tried every combination on the th and tr screws. I even probed them with the end switch screws and only got 27 volts when I paired them to the 3rd screw in their row.
 
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Old 10-21-15, 01:21 PM
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when I connected screw 1 and 2 I got nothing
And this is with the thermostat calling for heat? All the way up?

Can you identify which of those brown cables are the thermostat wires?

I've got a further test if you can.

Is this the first time you've tried the heat this year?

Are your thermostats battery operated? Have you put fresh batteries in them?

No voltage on TH and TR is telling us that the thermostat signal is not getting to the zone valve.
 
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Old 10-21-15, 01:38 PM
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Right now I have the thermostats off the wall and the wires jumped together. My thermostats are not battery operated. This is the first time I have tried to turn on the boiler this year. I can try to identify which wire is from the thermostat. there are three going to the zone valves I think.
 
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Old 10-21-15, 01:42 PM
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when I pair the th and tr screw together I am supposed to get 24 volts?
 
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Old 10-21-15, 02:23 PM
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when I pair the th and tr screw together I am supposed to get 24 volts?
I don't understand what you mean by "pairing them together".

Do NOT put a jumper lead across them if that's what you mean.

If the thermostat is calling for heat you should see 24VAC between TH and TR
 
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Old 10-21-15, 02:50 PM
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by pair I mean I put one lead of my meter on th and the other lead on tr. I get zero when I do that. But you say I should get 24
 
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Old 10-21-15, 02:54 PM
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what do I do if I can identify the wire from the thermostat?
 
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Old 10-21-15, 03:03 PM
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But you say I should get 24
Yes. When the thermostat is calling for heat. ZERO when the thermostat is NOT calling for heat.

what do I do if I can identify the wire from the thermostat?
You can test for CONTINUITY of the wires between the thermostat and the zone valve.

This webpage has more than I can write:

http://www.ladyada.net/library/metertut/continuity.html

You would set your meter to read OHMS. (or if as that webpage shows, you have that special feature on your meter... some meters do NOT have that feature, and OHMS works just fine)

Do this and touch the two meter leads together to verify the meter works. It should read very low resistance if you do this, not more than 1 ohm. Separate the leads and you should see "OL" or something similar, I'm assuming this is a digital display meter. If it's ANALOG with a needle, when you touch the leads together it should swing all the way to the right.

OK, so if meter is good, you need to disconnect ONE of the thermostat wires. No need to disconnect them both... touch one meter lead to one thermostat wire, and the other meter lead to the other thermostat wire. Since you have them connected together at the thermostat base leave them like that.

When you touch to thermostat wires with the meter leads, you should read no more than a couple/few ohms on the meter. This indicates that the wires are not broken somewhere... or a mouse chewed through them... it happens...
 
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Old 10-21-15, 04:17 PM
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problem fixed. continuity test did it. started tracing wire and realized some really stupid idiot cut the thermostat wires during a basement renovation when he thought he was cutting an old phone line. I didn't cause any damage by jumping the endswitch screws together did I?
 
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Old 10-21-15, 04:28 PM
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problem fixed.
Great! Easier than I thought it was gonna be!

realized some really stupid idiot
hahaha! and who would that be? hmmm? Seriously, we've all been there, go easy on yourself!

I didn't cause any damage by jumping the endswitch screws together did I?
No, not at all. The Endswitches do the exact same thing as the jumper.
 
 

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