water hot to circular pump but not in line to radiator

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  #1  
Old 11-16-15, 03:44 AM
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water hot to circular pump but not in line to radiator

Hi - moved into a new old home and have hot water heat for the first time. I have 6 zones that have circulator pumps and a seventh zone that feeds an air exchanger that blows forced hot air into one of the rooms. I just replaced all the Tstats with programmable ones and In the morning the heat goes on in all the zones to get the house warm for the day.

This morning the first four zones and the heat exchanger were kicked on. However the 4th zone and heat exch zone were cold to the touch and the air blowing was cool. I went downstairs and the pipe is hot and the bottom of the 4th zone circulator pump but not above it in the line to the zone. The line to the air exch was also cool.

Could I have really blown 2 pumps near the same time coincidentally? Both zones have worked so far this season but it's not super cold so they could have gone out over the past week or so.

Circulator and control system are taco and I beleive they are about 7 years old.

Any suggestions for diagnosis? Can I replace these myself or is this a something that will need a professional plumber?
 
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Old 11-16-15, 04:11 AM
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Hi..

What the psi and temp read on the boiler gauge?

It sounds more like a wireing issue if it stopped working after you changed t stats..

If its a taco panel possibly a relay went in the panel..

You can try switching relays from a working zone to a non working zone to check..

Could be an air issue too and/or pressure issue..
 
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Old 11-16-15, 04:55 AM
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Well in the time it took to post this thread and cook my kids breakfast the 2 zones kicked in. The rest of the zones had come to temp and shut off as they should have. Seems like when I have too many zones going that the zones further down the manifold don't get any hot water?

At this point psi is 20 and temp is about 165f.

Don't think its a thermostat issue since the red indicator lights on the relay controller seems to be in sync with what the Tstats are telling me. When I wasn't getting heat to the 4th zone the indicator light was definitely on. However, call me crazy but the air handler doesn't seem to be connected to the relay controller and it looks like it is fed from the return manifold. So not too sure how I check that one.

Any ideas?
 
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Old 11-16-15, 12:45 PM
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Your boiler pressure gauge can be off. They are known to be unaccurate..

Could be air in the lines too but often things just dont start working due to air..

As I said low boiler pressure kind of sounds like your issue..

There are stickys at the top of this forum to read.. "How to verify your pressure gauge..."
 
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Old 11-16-15, 03:05 PM
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Thanks - it will take a few days for me to put together a test gauge kit as described.

Dumb newbie question for you - the entire system should maintain consistent pressure throughout the system right? So if there are multiple places where I can attach the gauge it should reflect what the permanent system gauge reads?

Thanks for your help....
 
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Old 11-16-15, 03:29 PM
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the entire system should maintain consistent pressure throughout the system right? So if there are multiple places where I can attach the gauge it should reflect what the permanent system gauge reads?
That is basically mostly true... the exception is:

For every foot of elevation difference HIGHER, the gauge will read 0.432 PSI LOWER.

If you're within a few feet of the level of the boiler it will be close enough.

You're looking for GROSS errors, not differences of 1-2 PSI
 
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Old 11-18-15, 01:28 PM
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Mr. NJT - I've been working on assembling what I need to make a test pressure gauge and something crossed my mind. These gauges aren't too expensive. Why not just pay the 20 bucks and swap in a new gauge for my boiler? These go out anyway so it's kinda like preventive maintenance.

Or to better diagnose my problem is confirming the gauge is off the right thing to do?
 
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Old 11-18-15, 02:54 PM
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Well... that's a good question actually.

Those boiler gauges for 20 bucks are the same crap that was on the boiler when you bought it. It probably was bad after 2 years. If you want to be replacing the gauge every two years, then sure, go for it!

If you don't feel like that, then just put one of the test gauges together and only use it when there's a question. It shouldn't stay 'on-line' all the time.
 
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Old 11-18-15, 04:00 PM
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Or you can buy a higher quality gauge (pressure only) and remote mount it away from the boiler and connect it up with 1/4 inch copper tubing. Get a digital thermometer off of Ebay for about ten bucks and use that for the temperature. They aren't real accurate but they DO have a high degree of repeatabilty which is far more important than absolute accuracy.
 
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