Got a quote for a new boiler??

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  #1  
Old 12-18-15, 11:14 AM
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Got a quote for a new boiler??

Helping my daughter get some estimates for a new boiler. Below are 2 quotes from the company (very large) that has been servicing that location for years.

He came over to the house and took measurements, took pictures, noted the existing radiation and boiled it all down to the information below. No other information related to his visit. Current boiler is old and last service shows mid 60's for efficiency, but that number seems to vary with each service, same company. Current nozzle is a 1.3, I'm guessing that says it is a 180,000 btu. HVAC is not my thing. 2,000 ft² ranch, 4 zones, one is radiant concrete floor in a bedroom.

I will get more information and pictures to be sure the current piping is correct. What else should I get?

*************************
TRIO Pure Pro Oil Fired Boiler & Indirect Hot Water PurePro 100 41 gallon Indirect Tank

- Near Boiler Piping
- Circulation Pumps
- Zone Valves
- Expansion Tank
- Valves & Misc Fittings
- Permit
- Tax & Labor To Install

$6,833.00

*********************************
Then I asked what size boiler he was quoting and if he had pulled up the previous 2 years of use as he said he could. No indication on the previous use and a new quote below omitting the indirect water heater. They use very little hot water at this house so electric might be an option.

In his email he states:
"The boiler is a P4 which means it is a high fire at 140k BTU and low fire at 106k BTU’s."
But not shown in the contract.

Below is all that is stated in the contract.

TRIO Pure Pro Oil Fired Boiler615

- Near Boiler Piping
- Circulation Pumps
- Zone Valves
- Expansion Tank
- Valves & Misc Fittings
- Permit
- Tax & Labor To Install

$6,159
*******************
Some reading and I found nothing bad about that boiler. I just don't have a handle on the work scope and price. He was a salesman and it seems like they inflated the job price to accommodate anything the installer might find. Wide open basement with direct access and what looks like good plumbing. The previous owner even installed send and receive temperature gauges for the radiant floor heat manifold.

Thanks,
Bud
 
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  #2  
Old 12-18-15, 11:45 AM
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106K - 140K for 2,000 Sq feet? Holy good god that's way to big.
 
  #3  
Old 12-18-15, 12:03 PM
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It has a 180 now . Does the range of 106 to 140 have any compromise in efficiency between those two and is there a size in the middle?

I was hoping they would do a manual J, but he said they stopped doing those because no one asked for them "YA". So he went through his routine and gave me nothing. I'm a retired energy auditor that will have come out of retirement for this and collect enough additional data to get the actual size. I'm reviewing the options for getting another quote but not a lot of choices.

Thanks,
Bud
 
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Old 12-18-15, 12:45 PM
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What is the currently installed Heating System ?
 
  #5  
Old 12-18-15, 12:51 PM
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Baseboard hot water for the original 3 Br ranch and then baseboard for an addition on the back of the house and in floor radiant for an addition behind the garage. Been too warm to judge any problem areas. As for the make and model, I'll get that info this weekend, along with some pictures.

Bud
 
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Old 12-18-15, 01:26 PM
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I looked at several different sites as well as the advertising for Trio and found nothing to indicate this boiler had a modulating burner. If this is true then the salesman was flat-out lying when he told you it ranged from 106 to 140 kBTUs/hr. He probably meant that depending on what measurement protocol you used that was the range. Net input is 140k, DOE capacity is 122k and IBR rating is 106k all at an 86.5% AFUE rating.

I also found that the design is that of a Biasi, maybe even made by Biasi.

The one thing I do like is that the burner can be changed to a gas (either natural or LP) model.

As for the rest, you know the drill. Do a complete Manual J and incorporate any planned energy saving improvements. Don't even think about doing massive heating system changes or improvements during the winter months unless absolutely necessary. Consider that four zones for a 2,000 square foot ranch is probably excessive. A combustion efficiency of low to mid 60% range is atrocious for even the most ancient of oil burners and indicates that either some major (but not necessarily expensive) maintenance is needed or that the figures have been fudged.

All the data from the existing boiler nameplate might help me to make a few more observations. Pictures of the existing installation would also be helpful.
 
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Old 12-18-15, 02:01 PM
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My uneducated guess on the range he suggested is fitting it with different nozzles?? I know my oil furnace has three ratings achieved bu increasing or decreasing the nozzle size. I always associate modulating with gas. As for being convertible, that's good as i can throw a rock from her back porch and hit a nursing home which has the NG. Sent the gas company an inquiry 3 weeks ago and as usual, no reply. I'll have to stop in and see if conversion will happen in my lifetime.

Ya, the efficiency numbers were bouncing up and down. I would normally think that could be tuned up to 80%. May have to figure out how to run my combustion analyzer. Never took the time because Maine does not allow ANYONE other than a licensed tech to work on hvac.

Bud
 
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Old 12-18-15, 02:39 PM
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Here is the Trio specification sheet. (pdf) https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...brOh0g&cad=rja

Notice the P4 has a firing rate of 1.0 gph although the nozzle size varies from 0.65 to 0.85 gph depending on what burner is fitted. Regardless of the burner the BTU rating is the same depending on what rating method is used.

May have to figure out how to run my combustion analyzer. Never took the time because Maine does not allow ANYONE other than a licensed tech to work on hvac.
Work on the equipment or work on the equipment for pay? The latter I could understand but not the former. Then again, there are lots and lots of laws I don't understand. Most of them I just ignore.
 
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Old 12-19-15, 04:34 PM
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Joel, I'll be at the house for several hours tomorrow, repairing the grand kids toys, and will get pictures of the boiler, piping, and sort out how much baseboard they have on each zone.

The p4 information is interesting and you are correct (of course) it is a 140,000 unit. Now, I think I would like the p3 with lower numbers. Basically, the unit he is quoting delivers the same btu's as the current beast once you adjust for efficiency. Since I've already found some significant areas where I can reduce the heat loss and since they have both a wood stove and a pellet stove, any major cold spells would not pose a problem. Plus, with 4 zones, they could easily dial back a couple to allow a smaller boiler to maintain the important areas. To be able to argue for the smaller unit I NEED the manual J or equivalent heat loss numbers.

I'm anxious to have you folks review the current installation to be sure they make any changes while they are there and perhaps negotiate a lower price if this is a simple swap.

Thanks,
Bud
 
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Old 12-19-15, 05:27 PM
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Unless the house is a real barn you probably need less than a 70K boiler. Have a heat loss done.
Not sure what a heat loss is, here is a link to FAQ about a heat loss.
http://www.comfort-calc.net/documents/SageZoneFAQ.cfm
 

Last edited by rbeck; 12-19-15 at 05:46 PM.
  #11  
Old 12-20-15, 07:17 PM
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I have more, just want to see how these post.

Bud

Well, they made it. I am challenged.
I measured all of the baseboard heaters and will add that up. One thing I didn't get was the break down of the zones and I only see 3 circulators, so assume there are two zones on one circulator. She has 4 thermostats.

Also saw old tests with efficiency ranging from 66% to 75%
 
  #12  
Old 12-21-15, 07:11 AM
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Ok, the final sq ft came out to be 2,200 plus 1,500 ft² of empty unheated basement.

I measured 140 ft of baseboard heaters, all look to be 550 btu per foot.
One small hot water cabinet heater in a bathroom maybe 80 ft². I need an estimate on what it would produce for heat, no fan.
Then, there is 480 ft² of in floor radiant heat, slab poured inside concrete wall and I suspect there is insulation involved as he did many things correctly and so far, that area is very comfortable. The manifold is shown in the pictures.

I did a rough heat loss calculation with no extra margin added and got 78,400 btus per hour at -10 degrees design. The salesman will be sending over his numbers and I will be requesting the usage numbers from the previous owner, same heating company but they need his permission.

When I plugged in the anticipated improvements from air sealing and foundation insulation, the heat loss per hour dropped to 56,000. Again, no added margin and again, they do have wood and pellets for cold spells that exceed the design. But the P3 from the specification sheet you linked Joel should be more than enough even before improvements.

Hoping all of that plumbing is good and doesn't need to change, but it is all Greek to me.

Opinions welcome, and I have more pictures, just didn't want to flood the thread.

Bud
 
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Old 12-21-15, 09:14 AM
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Bud, do you have high definition pictures that you can host on a different site such as photobucket or imgur? These pictures are a bit small for me to see any detail.

Are you planning on doing any of the work this winter?
 
  #14  
Old 12-21-15, 10:27 AM
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LOL. I worked hard to shrink those so they would load. I tried one at full resolution and it wouldn't load. Photobucket is probably better as I can add many more pictures without overloading the thread. The picture of the boiler tag is hard to read so I will copy and retype that info right from the boiler.

As for installing the new boiler, not me. This is my daughters house and when started she will want it done in a reasonable time frame, I'm too slow. No, these quotes include all the labor. and I assume will come with some type of warranty.

As for when she will make the change depends upon pulling together all of the details and for that I really appreciate the help.

Thanks,
Bud
 

Last edited by Bud9051; 12-21-15 at 10:30 AM. Reason: addition
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Old 12-21-15, 01:57 PM
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That was a pain, hopefully I have the right link. Here are the pictures I have so far.

Bud Poll's Recent Uploads | Photobucket

Bud
 
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Old 12-21-15, 05:05 PM
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Before you put in an oil boilerand chance of getting natural gas there?

2200 sq ft dictates 55k btu heat loss

If a drafty home on the high end would be 77 k btu

Now your baseboard more or less from your 140 ft measurment ( Element only right????) would also dictate 77k btu..

77K btu is all the heat you will get out of the baseboards @ 180F boiler water... There is no reason to go bigger.. even if indirect is installed.. You could put a 300K btu boiler in but will only get 77K out of the baseboards for example.. period!!!!

And with oil boilers there is a limit to the smallest you can go. Probably the burnham 74 DOE is about the smallest they come...

Example": With that said IMO the MPO burnham with the 3 pass desigh is 87% eff. A 6 nozzle and 74K btu should serve you well...

I would remove what ever micro zones you have and make probably 3 zones. 65 ft of baseboard is the max for each zone. You should be able to break p the 3 into two and leave the radiant on its own..

Im wondering if the radiant works well. Possible it wasnt done right and the boiler may struggle with that zone. ( Its low temp zone remember. 140F or less.)


https://file.ac/RPLC0KQp6es/MPO-IQ%2...ta%20Sheet.pdf


Ill wait for others to respond to my notes here... And a post back about the zones and how they are laid out...
 
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Old 12-21-15, 05:15 PM
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Also note the trio smallest boiler p3 is 91 k btu and holds only 3 plus gallons of water... The burnham is 74K as stated and holds almost 8 gallons of water...

You may need the more water due to the high mass of the radiant in floor tubing...

Last I would also go with an electric water heater...

Last , last the burnham can accept return temps as low as 110F... Ideal for outdoor reset and that in floor heating...
 
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Old 12-21-15, 08:25 PM
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I'm checking on availability of gas, but probably several years at best.

I measured basically the cover over the baseboard less a few inches but did not subtract for corners, so if anything, the total capacity of that 140 feet is somewhat less. All covers had fin tubes under them, but exact length, no. Hard for this old guy to crawl around on the floors. I have asked the salesman for his numbers to compare. He is listed as an energy adviser so not just a salesman (I hope).

Electric hot water vs indirect: Would electric allow her to turn the boiler off during the warm season, or is that not necessary with these new boilers?

I suspect the current 4 zones were created to satisfy different comfort levels, but I will sort out where those zones are located and how much baseboard and other are on each. What are the penalties for having limited baseboard on a zone?

I see I didn't get all of the pictures i wanted loaded to photobucket so will have to find them, ARGH!

Thanks,
Bud
 
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Old 12-21-15, 09:38 PM
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Electric hot water vs indirect: Would electric allow her to turn the boiler off during the warm season, or is that not necessary with these new boilers?
Yes turn off boiler during summer... I do every year..

I suspect the current 4 zones were created to satisfy different comfort levels, but I will sort out where those zones are located and how much baseboard and other are on each. What are the penalties for having limited baseboard on a zone?

Short cycling of the boiler...

This is all just mt suggestion so far... Just giving you a heads up is all on whats out there...
 
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Old 12-22-15, 02:18 AM
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I haven't yet looked at the pictures but I wanted to second Mike's suggestions. On the electric water heater I always recommend an 80 gallon model because electrics heat so slowly. Contrary to what a lot of people believe a larger storage tank does not significantly increase the operating cost. The frequency and lengths of power outages, however, may skew the decision.
 
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Old 12-23-15, 02:45 PM
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I agree with Furd. The 80 gallon tank will cost a bit more when first installed but everyday use should be cheaper.
If it were high efficiency gas I might argue the point.
 
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Old 12-23-15, 02:50 PM
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Lawrosa,
just a quick correction. The 110f return temp is for the gas boilers with the G3 Block, pretty much anything other than the Series 2. The MPO oil is actually 100f
 
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Old 12-23-15, 06:02 PM
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Lawrosa,
just a quick correction. The 110f return temp is for the gas boilers with the G3 Block, pretty much anything other than the Series 2. The MPO oil is actually 100f

Good to know But I see no documentation anymore regarding that...


Troop says its just a trough to wick the condensate to the burner...
 
  #24  
Old 12-23-15, 07:08 PM
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Got a look at the current zoning. 4 zones:
*One handles the three bedrooms, small bath in master BR and possibly the main bathroom (45').
*The second zone handles kitchen, DR, and LR. I'm thinking the main bathroom could be with this zone but (I'm sorry) I assumed rather than following the pipes. Will do better next visit (56').
*Third zone is the large family room added to the back of the house (32').
*And the 4th zone is the addition on the back of the garage, the in floor radiant. This area is connected to the rest of the house with a short hall and well sealed door so will have to remain on its own zone (8' bb plus 3 loops in concrete floor).

I will try to create a basic sketch of where the heat is located in each zone. Fortunately, it is a wide open basement with most of the pipes readily accessible.

At this point we can definitely go down from the P4 he proposed, but may be able to go below the P3 option. I will ask when he gets back to his office, on the road now.

BTW, 55°, 48°, 43°, next 3 days.

Bud
 
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Old 12-23-15, 08:13 PM
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BTW, 55°, 48°, 43°, next 3 days.
Highs or lows?

My next three days according to Weather Underground from the station just down the street at the middle school are: Thursday, 41/33, Friday, 39/30 and Saturday, 41/33. Very slight chance of snow (less than an inch) Christmas morning.
 
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Old 12-23-15, 08:30 PM
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Highs or lows, that's funny.
Some extra data.
Electricity here has not benefited from the abundance of gas and oil, $0.17 a KW.
Oil is currently on par with NG at about $1.79 per gallon for oil. Although still going down, who knows what the future will be. Bangor Natural Gas delays Lincoln expansion a year — Business — Bangor Daily News — BDN Maine

Bud
 
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Old 12-26-15, 06:08 AM
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Oil heat best!!

That being said, the any quality cast-iron 3-section oil boiler with the indirect HWH is my professional recommendation.

Electricity cost in CT is 3x the cost of oil.....and I've never seen an electric hot water heater last very long, whereas a stainless steel indirect hot water tank lasts a long long time.

That first quote with the indirect HWH was a good price (~$6,800) but have the company go with a 3-section instead, so save fuel and installation cost.

Kudos on that old system in there now!!!.....lots of all parts still goin strong, typical quality oil system
 
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Old 12-26-15, 06:41 AM
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Hi ct,
The history of that old boiler is interesting. The house was originally built as a basic 3 BR 2 bath 2 car garage over a full 1,350 ft² basement with only one radiator in the basement so basically unheated. For that, this 1.3 gallon per hour monster boiler was installed. Back then oil was probably $0.50 or below per gallon. This is the oversizing approach we see all too often. The living space was increased to the current 2.200 ft² and still that boiler is oversized.

But, given its age, the internal coil for hot water, lower efficiency, and size the time is right to be changing it out. Natural gas will be available (maybe) at some point in the future, but NG up here is still expensive and as you say, electric is terrible.

I'm not very good at HVAC so explain "but have the company go with a 3-section instead," if you would. We will probably be going with the Trio P3 but I don't see "3-section instead," as an option.

Currently waiting for more information from the salesman and I have some more pictures to get some help on what will be needed for the install. His quote says, circulation pumps, zone valves, expansion tank, valves and fittings. If those are already included in the quote but not needed, then they need to be subtracted from that quote. looking at the jungle of plumbing it looks like everything is there. The additional pictures will help those here identify what I have.

Thanks for the comments and hope your holiday was a good one,
Bud
 
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Old 12-26-15, 06:55 PM
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I'm not very good at HVAC so explain "but have the company go with a 3-section instead," if you would. We will probably be going with the Trio P3 but I don't see "3-section instead," as an option.
Sorry about that plumber-lingo, 3-section means the total number of cast iron sections a boiler is assembled with. Typically, the model number will have a '3' in it, so I would think your P3 model is just that. Since a typical 3-section boiler supports approximately 100k BTU, its plenty for your size home. Give the Buderus or Biasi boilers a good look/consideration if you can find an installer that puts those brands of boiler in. Do note, both of those boilers don't even offer a tankless coil, so an indirect tank is mandatory, but well well worth it.
 
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Old 12-27-15, 10:42 AM
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Lawrosa,
The MPO-iQ has and still does say 100F return temp. No trough to burner, that would be a lousy application as it would rust out the burner tube. It is about flow.
Following this chart
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will give you about a 33f delta-T in the boiler.
This will give additional savings with OD reset if applied.
Just putting a lid on a bad rumor. There was another manufacturer that tried to do that for a few years but did not work well for them.
The MPO-IQ is still rated as one of the best oil boilers on the market by Consumer Reports. With the 87% efficiency, the self troubleshooting the control can do and the plug in cards for ODR and LWCO makes for an easy installation.US Boiler is now offering the wireless OD sensor at no addition charge when purchased with the ODR card.
 
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Old 01-06-16, 06:12 PM
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Time to update. The salesman took a couple of weeks off at year end, take it or lose it with the vacation. He's back now and we have compared my heat loss calculations to his. Some things he measured better than I did, window area, and others I did better then he, wall area. Neither evaluation was done under a microscope, but I feel very good that we have enough information to go with the Burnham MPO-IQ84 at DOE 74,000 BTU. We will also go with the indirect hot water but not sure what mfg he will recommend. First quote included a PurePro 100 41 gallon tank.

Rating the house as leaky (0.5 ACH) with no basement insulation, walls or rim joist, the heat loss came in at 88,000 BTUs at design temp. With air sealing and insulation in the basement and a few other infrared targeted areas that can be improved, the heat loss dropped to 49,000. Those improvements have already started as they are needed regardless of whatever other choices are made. Basically, I'm comfortable with the Burnham at 74,000.

I have asked for pricing and warranty/service coverage. Not sure what is covered being a new boiler with old plumbing and don't know what they may offer for a service contract.

Also, not sure whether a Burnham is more or less expensive than the TRIO P3 we were quoted.

I will let you know what they offer.

BTW, the old boiler was installed in 58.

Bud
 
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Old 01-06-16, 06:29 PM
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If your heat loss is down to 49k why are you considering a boiler rated at 88k? Those heat loss programs already have a fudge factor of about 20% included. I'd be looking for a boiler rated about 50k maximum.
 
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Old 01-06-16, 06:58 PM
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I'd be looking for a boiler rated about 50k maximum.
I don't think you can find an oil boiler lower then the 74K btu range...


Rating the house as leaky (0.5 ACH) with no basement insulation, walls or rim joist, the heat loss came in at 88,000 BTUs at design temp. With air sealing and insulation in the basement and a few other infrared targeted areas that can be improved, the heat loss dropped to 49,000. Those improvements have already started as they are needed regardless of whatever other choices are made. Basically, I'm comfortable with the Burnham at 74,000.
And as I stated in my first post here 2200 sq ft dictates 55 k btu.. The simple multiplication is always pretty darn close.. sq ft x 25.. For drafty home as you stated x by 35..


We will also go with the indirect hot water but not sure what mfg he will recommend. First quote included a PurePro 100 41 gallon tank.
I would do a HT super store.. contender. Lowest BTU rating. This alone should save you oil and have faster recovery.. Compare specs to any other indirect..

SuperStor Contender Indirect Water Heater

Read here.. The SC 35 which is a 40 gallon only needs 53k boiler output.. That puts you ahead of the game for fast recovery. Also they only need a pump @ 8 gpm with only 6 ft of head or so..

http://www.htproducts.com/literature/lp-65.pdf

Plus they are only about 700 bucks.

Superstor Contender, SSC-35, Glass Lined Indirect Water Heater
 
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Old 01-06-16, 06:58 PM
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I don't use a conventional heat loss program, just raw calculations built into a spreadsheet. The 88 is the current estimate of the heat loss and the Burnham is DOE 74. As an energy auditor we are not allowed to advise to deeply in the hvac direction so I have never spent a lot of time sorting things out. This is family so I'm taking the opportunity to learn. Is the DOE rating the right one to use? I had always looked at the input rating.

The new boiler will be half the size of the old one and it would scare me to go any lower. Questions I will be asking will be about return temperatures and that jungle of plumbing. I can identify the circulators, 3 newer ones and one old beast, but I don't know what all of the devices are that have a birds nest of wires for each. Have to say they weren't very neat in that aspect.

The, ODR, is that something I should consider. Also, since we will be increasing to 5 circulators, should I change the plumbing to use more control valves and switch to more modern circulators. If I don't specify, what circulator is he apt to price out?

Bud
 
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Old 01-06-16, 07:10 PM
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Is the DOE rating the right one to use? I had always looked at the input rating.
Yes DOE almost always...


The, ODR, is that something I should consider
Yes . But the curve settings need to be fine tuned most likely..

Also, since we will be increasing to 5 circulators, should I change the plumbing to use more control valves and switch to more modern circulators. If I don't specify, what circulator is he apt to price out?

This is a bit complicated and it depends on the money you want to spend. Depending on the head of each zone you can maybe go with taco 007 or 3 speed tacos, or variable speed pumps based on delta T or head.. It depends on how competent your guy is...

Plus youll need flow contols and such.. Or he may use some zone valves if you have micro zones. If micro zones now is the time to combine them maybe...into one zone..
 
  #36  
Old 01-06-16, 07:17 PM
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You beat me Mike,
Their supplier is FW Webb, so if Webb carries the Superstore they should be able to quote it. I will ask.

After doing many energy audits I realized I could guess my results with limited information, similar to the 25 btus per ft² ballpark number.

Doing this audit was my first chance to really look for places that could be improved, like the two crawlspace windows that have an open/close feature and are now OPEN. Built in 58 they had no reason to air seal, oil was probably $0.15 a gallon. I wouldn't know, I was 11 years old. But that now presents a good opportunity to improve the homes efficiency. I also took some IR photos and can see where there are some huge problems in the attic and they should be easy to fix.

When I presented the proposal to my daughter she didn't want to hear anything beyond cutting her bills by more than half, and that is with our current $1.75 per gallon. At one point I paid almost $6 a gallon, hope those days never return, knock on wood.

Bud
 
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Old 01-08-16, 10:13 AM
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OK, this is getting complicated. I just got the price quote for the smaller Burnham and the price went up $800. I know, different brand, so that is why I'm here asking.
New quote:
Burnham UMPOIQ84TB Oil Fired Boiler w/indirect Hot Water PurePro 100 41 gallon indirect tank.
$7,619
The other was : TRIO PurePro Oil Fired Boiler & Indirect Hot Water PurePro 100 41 gallon Indirect Tank.
$6,833
Both quotes include "a complete boiler/valves/pumps/expansion tank replacement. So we will take all of it out and replace with new."

So, the labor and materials should be the same (what materials to be determined), is the $800 additional price correct and is it worth that much for the smaller boiler, 74,000 Burnham vs the 91,000 TRIO, both DOE numbers. I went down in size but the price went up. I believe (my guess) both boilers would be supplied by FW Webb.

A big thank you.

Bud
 
  #38  
Old 01-08-16, 12:02 PM
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From heating help .com.. Im running out but will post more during the weekend...

The Pure Pro is a boiler that is sold by F.W. Webb a heating supply house. They do not make the boiler. I believe you are better off buying a boiler that is sold and made by a manufacturer rather than a rebadged product that is exclusive to one supply company. You will be able to get better support and there will be better research and development and better technical advice. There will also usually be better parts availability
 
  #39  
Old 01-08-16, 02:02 PM
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Thanks Mike and others.
Just to expand upon my confusion here's more on what is included in that price.
He included a huge list of parts with the boiler quote so I assume they are already part of the total as I don't want to see a whole bunch of parts added on after the install. But the list is so overboard, this install certainly doesn't need even half of it, like 500' of ¾" copper, plus 200' of 1" and 100' of ½". But then I can only identify one circulator and no control valves when he said everything we have will be removed, we have 4 zones.

I have seen on the internet some very neat and simple looking setups for 4 zones plus an indirect, almost a manifold configuration, and they use one circulator for heat and one for the indirect. If they are going to change everything, that is what I want (I think).

What does this list tell you, if it will post? Not too bad.
Bud

2 * NIP 1-1/2x4" BLK STL STD S40
2 * ELL 90DEG 1-1/2x1-1/4" BLK MI
1 * ELL 90DEG 1-1/4" BLK MI
1 * NIP 1-1/4x36" BLK STL R-CUT STD S40
2 * NIP 1-1/4x7" BLK STL STD S40
1 * AIR PURGER EXTROL 1-1/4" 444
1 * NIP 1-1/4x3" BLK STL STD S40
2 * B/V ISOLTR UNIFLG FBRS 1-1/4" IPSxFLG
1 * NIP 1/2xCLO BLK STL STD S40
1 * TEE 1/2" BLK MI
2 * NIP 1/2x4" BLK STL STD S40
1 * B/V PUREPRO BRS 1/2" THD PTFE FP
1 * B/V PUREPRO BRS 1/2" COP PTFE FP
2 * B/V PUREPRO BRS 1" THD PTFE FP
1 * B/V PUREPRO BRS 3/4" COP PTFE FP
1 * B/V PUREPRO BRS 1" COP PTFE FP
2 * HDR 2 ZONE 1-1/4 X 1 STL
2 * CAP BLK MI 1-1/4" NPT
1 * ADPT WROT COP 3/4x1" COPxMNPT RED
1 * ADPT WROT COP 3/4x1" COPxFNPT RED
1 * ADPT WROT COP 1" COPxMNPT
1 * ADPT WROT COP 1" COPxFNPT
2 * NIP 1-1/4x6" BLK STL STD S40
2 * B/V PUREPRO BRS 1-1/4" COP PTFE FP
2 * TEE 1-1/4x3/4x1-1/4" BLK MI
20 TUBE COP M HRD 1"x10'
8 * ELL 90DEG 1" COP 607
1 * ELL 90DEG 1" COP 607
1 * NIP 1-1/4x12" BLK STL STD S40
1 * BU 3/4x1/8" BLK CI
1 * B/V BLR DRN DRAWOFF PUREPRO 3/4" BRS
2 * B/V BRS 1/8" FxM 2PC MINI VIT FP
2 * AIR VNT HY-VENT 1/8" NKL PLTD BRS 400
6 * NATICK HNGR 1x12" COP PLT CS
6 * NATICK HNGR 3/4x12" COP PLT CS
1 * WTR HTR PUREPRO PRO100 41GAL INDIR
5 * ADPT WROT COP 3/4" COPxMNPT
2 * B/V BLR DRN DRAWOFF PUREPRO 3/4" BRS
40 TUBE COP M HRD 3/4"x10'
2 * UN 3/4" COP CxC 733
12 * ELL 90DEG 3/4" COP 607
4 * ELL ST 90DEG 3/4" COP CxFTG 607-2
1 * TEE 3/4" COP 611
1 * ADPT WROT COP 3/4" COPxFNPT
2 * CPLG WROT COP 3/4x1/2" 600R
1 * RLF VLV BRS 3/4" VAC
1 * RLF VLV BRZ 3/4x8 MPTxFPT 150PSI 0066
1 * ADPT WROT COP 3/4" COPxMNPT
1 * TEE 3/4" COP LF CxCxF 712-LF
1 * EXP TNK THRML 2GAL 150PSIG 3/4"NPT
1 * CIRC ALPHA 15-55F 1/16HP 115V
1 * AUTO FILL VLV AUTOFILL W/BFP 1/2" NPT
1 * ZONE VLV BRS 3/4 SWT 3.5CV 125PSI 2 P
1 * TRANSF UNIV MNT 40VA 120VAC 24V 60HZ
2 * SQ BX RND EDG 4" GSTL 1/2-3/4" KO
2 * ADPT WROT COP 3/4" COPxMNPT
10 TUBE COP M HRD 3/4"x10'
10 TUBE COP M HRD 1/2"x10'
1 * ADPT WROT COP 1/2" COPxMNPT
2 * ELL 90DEG 1/2" COP 607
1 * EXP TNK HYD 4.4GAL 100PSIG 1/2"M
2 * SPLT RING HNGR GALV MI 3/8 1-1/4"
2 * CEIL PLT 3/8" GALV
6 * ROD ALL THD ZN PLTD 3/8"
10 * CNDT EMT STR 1/2" MTL 10'
1 * CUTOFF THERMAL RND 165 DEG
1 * STRAP CONN 3/8" 2SCRW NM TO BX 5PK
1 * STRAP CONN 3/8" 2SCRW CBL TO BX 5PK
1 * CONN 3/8" 90DEG FLEX TO BX 5PK
1 * HNDY BX CNDT 4x2x1-7/8" GSTL 1/2" KO
1 * TGLE SWTCH 1P GROUNDG IVY
1 * HNDY BX CVR OIL BNR SGL TGLE MTL RED
1 * NIP ZN 1/2" MPT OFFST
3 SMK PIPE RND 6" 2'L 24GA GALV
1 * DRFT CTRL FIELD 6" 02722701
1 * VLV FUSBL 3/8x1/4" BRS FLRExM 1-5/8"
1 * FLRE UN 42 BRS 3/8x3/8"
1 * OIL LN PUREPRO FLEX FLRE 3/8x36"
 
  #40  
Old 01-08-16, 06:19 PM
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Whats the total on that price list????

I say find another estimite.. That guy is counting beans.... Most stuff is on the truck and consumibles IMO..


But that me.... I would not be able to give you a break down like that....

Looks automated for a higher price tag
 
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