New oil boiler system

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Old 12-25-15, 08:38 AM
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New oil boiler system

Hi:
I have installed a new oil boiler system in the house with an indirect water tank.
I have three zone valves, one for each level of the house.
The problem that I have is on the 2nd floor, even if I open the valve manually I cannot hear the water running and I'm starting to think that I swapped the supply and return pipes. Could that be the reason why I don't hear any water running?
Thanks in advance for the help
 
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Old 12-25-15, 08:46 AM
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I'm not an ex-spurt; but I'm not sure you want to hear water running. I have an hydronic heating system and the only time my attention is drawn to water flowing in the baseboard is when there are bubbles in the water . . . . which you do not want, as it's the oxygen in that air which allows for corrosion inside your boiler and other components.

Maybe it's the other two zones which need to be bled to eliminate the excess air still present in them . . . . and not the one you're currently concerned with.

Merry Christmas ! (I don't know why I'm here on Christmas . . . . but you may be the only one who knows)
 
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Old 12-25-15, 09:10 AM
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Thanks for your reply.
When you open the valve manually you should hear or feel the heat in that zone and I don't even when purging that zone, that is why I'm thinking that I swapped the supply and return pipes.
Thanks and Merry Xmas
 
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Old 12-25-15, 09:43 AM
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If that 2nd Floor Zone is plumbed the same as the others, then it should behave the same. Someone who knows your components intrimately should be able to chime in here (later) and clarify the possible cause.

You've bled the 2nd Floor Zone (from the bleeder valve?) so I have no idea why it might be devoid of water.

What do you have for system pressure on the Boiler. Usually, a 3 story house will require 15 to 18 PSI . . . . and it's usually the top Zone that lacks heat; not the middle one.
 
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Old 12-25-15, 10:03 AM
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Hi
It is the top floor the one that I'm having the problem
The pressure is around 18
Thanks
 
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Old 12-25-15, 08:25 PM
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Sounds like vapor lock. Keep bleeding or use the purge valves if you have them.
 
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Old 12-26-15, 11:29 AM
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What do you mean with vapor lock?
I bled that zone a few times.
Thanks
 
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Old 12-26-15, 12:31 PM
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Switching the supply and return pipes alone should not keep the water flowing. Are you trying to just use bleeders or do you have purge valves? If you are using bleeders or air vents there may be an air bubble stuck that is not moving to an area where it will come out.
Here is a drawing which will eliminate some valves and still do the job. Pay close attention to the manifolds, they are not connected together, there is a valve between them. Follow this piping for air free operation.
Comfort Calc
You would purge the air out with the pressure of incoming water pushing air and water around the loop.
 
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Old 12-28-15, 05:50 PM
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Hi:
It was pipe the right way.
Rbeck this is what I did and it was the solution "You would purge the air out with the pressure of incoming water pushing air and water around the loop"
Thank for your help and thanks to all those that help also.
I have a couple more problems but I do not know if I need to open a new thread.
 
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Old 12-29-15, 06:29 PM
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Hi:
Rbeck, how much pressure of the incoming water can I put? I was putting just 20 psi and I thought all the air was out, but it was only partial since I can get heat just in an area of the second floor. One more question, I have the zone valves installed in the supply; should I have the valve in the manual position when I'm trying to push the air out?
Thanks for all the help
 
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