Hydronic baseboard heater not working (buzzing sound from utility room)

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Old 01-08-16, 03:12 PM
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Hydronic baseboard heater not working (buzzing sound from utility room)

My basement bedroom hyronic heater have suddenly stopped working. The pipe is cold to the touch. It is on its own line.

Each time I turn on the bedroom's thermostat, I get a buzzing sound from some silver box in the utility room connected to the line feeding the basement heaters. Sorry, I do not know what that silver little box is called (its a honeywell) but it is the 4th one to the right in the photo. Thank you.

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Old 01-08-16, 03:28 PM
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The box is a zone valve & it's not opening. Zone valves seem to have replaced individual circulator pumps probably to save money. I don't like them.

Side note. Basement bedrooms are illegal, in many places. I don't know about Canada. Keep it under your hat.
 
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Old 01-08-16, 03:33 PM
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That's a Honeywell hydronic zone valve which turns the water flow on and off to the zone based on the thermostat. It may be stuck or the power unit may have failed.

Most HW valves have a manual operating lever on one end of the box. You can manually open the valve using that lever which should give you heat in that zone. Just opening and closing the manual lever a couple times may clear the problem if it is due to a gunked up valve. If not, the power unit will probably need to be replaced, which can be done without disturbing the plumbing due to design of the valve.

If you can give us the model number from the label on the box, we can provide more information.
 
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Old 01-08-16, 03:54 PM
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Thank you folks for your responses

I moved the the lever underneath from "auto" to "manual open", however the buzzing has not stopped. I would also need to give it a bit of time to see if the heaters are now warming up

The actual 4th zone valve does not have a sticker on it however the adjoining one has one and I have attached the pic with the specs:
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Also, not sure if this matters. I noticed that the only the valves with the bump on their faces have stickers. The other two do not. Does it mean they could be different or its just a more modern verson of the same thing. You can see what I am talking about in the following pic:
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Old 01-08-16, 07:35 PM
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No, the buzzing won't stop because that is the motor trying to work.

You have a few options but here is a thread that discusses them. Not your exact valve but all the comments apply.

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...-problems.html

You have three options: You can replace the whole valve. In your case, this is fairly easy because you have manual isolation valves above and below each valve which you can shut off so you don't have to drain the whole system. Your valves have flare connections for the water that you just unscrew. You will have to swap the wires as well.

Second, you can replace the whole power unit. This doesn't replace the actual pipe or the part of the valve that actually shuts off the water flow, but it replaces the motor and other mechanical and electrical parts.

Third, you can replace just the motor. This is a very easy job.

There are videos on youtube showing all of this, just search for replacing or repairing Honeywell zone valve.

Since you have four of these, if you are up to it, you can swap parts from one valve to another to figure out what has failed.

IIWM, I'd buy the whole valve but start by swapping just the new motor for the old and see if that fixes it. If not, then I'd put in the whole new valve, given you have isolation valves and don't have to drain the system.
 
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Old 01-08-16, 10:26 PM
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CarbideTipped,
I will definity try to replace the valve. The only issue now is that I can not just walk into my local hardware store and as for part V8043G1034. Tried looking around and no one carries it around here.

Can I get an alternative valve by just matching the specs?
 
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Old 01-08-16, 11:55 PM
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Please give us a view of the top of that power head -- looking down -- so we can read what it says.
Remove the powerhead cover -- screw on top.
Pry off the round cover to the motor -- careful, it's sharp -- and observe the rotor.
If the rotor turns continuously with a call from the thermostat then the gearbox is stripped and a replacement motor is in order.
 

Last edited by HeatWorm; 01-09-16 at 12:34 AM.
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Old 01-09-16, 08:52 AM
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Something like this would come from an HVAC supply house. Depending on your area you may find that they won't sell to non-pros. Some larger appliance repair places may have it. On-line sources are another option.
 
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