Hot water not circulating

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  #1  
Old 01-21-16, 09:40 AM
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Hot water not circulating

Ok I'm almost there!

Replaced gaskets on pump, fired up with no leaks!

Pilot light on and have boiler up and running.

This system is in the basement and has basically two zones, simple layout. Hot water only seems to be flowing to the first zone, the when I reach up the pipes are not hot approximately 15 ft into the run. I did open up a bleeder valve in the rear of the basement and have cold water coming out.

Looking for your continued guidance to get me past the final step here. Assume its some type of vacuum, not sure.

Thanks

Mitchell
 
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  #2  
Old 01-21-16, 09:51 AM
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FYI....when I replaced the gaskets on the motor if I switched the power leads would that have an impact? (run backwards???).

Also have plenty of pressure 20 psi and heat at boiler is 180 degrees

Mitchell
 
  #3  
Old 01-21-16, 01:21 PM
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Probably air bound... We need to see pics of the system from several angles to tell you what to do...
 
  #4  
Old 01-21-16, 01:47 PM
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Here are the photo's...please let me know if you need additional

Thanks!
 
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  #5  
Old 01-21-16, 01:51 PM
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Sorry ......sent wrong photo's, here are the ones

Let me know if you need additional

Mitchell
 
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  #6  
Old 01-21-16, 01:59 PM
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two zones? Pics of zone valves and any valves and boiler drains on the piping. Boiler drain is a valve you can put a hose on
 
  #7  
Old 01-21-16, 08:32 PM
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Ok here are the additional photo's requested.

There is one supply line, then 2 return lines that combine in one return.

Let me know if there are other photos needed.

Mitchell
 
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  #8  
Old 01-22-16, 02:34 AM
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Here is where you bleed from

[ATTACH=CONFIG]61923[/ATTACH]


But you say two zones means you should have another set of these somewhere... I see one pump so if two zones are there zone valves somewhere?

Do you have two t stats?


Basically close that bottom valve, put a hose on the top valve , and let a gallon or two run into a backet.. Then fire the boiler and try it.

The canister on top of this tank has a cap on the top that should be loose. This lets the air out. Let me know about that.


[ATTACH=CONFIG]61924[/ATTACH]


Also watch the temp/pressure gauge on the boiler when you blled water from that valve. It should add water itself and the gauge should rise back to about 15 psi... Take a pic..
 
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  #9  
Old 01-22-16, 11:32 AM
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Can we have some information about the boiler, model number.
Your B&G Series 100 MODE OF DISCHARGE is down into the boiler, it should be up for that location.
Not too many boilers like swapping the direction of flow across the temp sensors/heat exchanger.
Then your feed line, expansion tank, and air scoop will need to move to the suction side after the boiler and before the pump inlet.
Q: Why the insulation on the water feed line.
Q: Explain what the two pex lines connect to.
 
  #10  
Old 01-24-16, 09:16 AM
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Past owner had insulation everywhere!

Boiler Model: Peerless MMW-115

Pex lines: Orange lines are both for supply and return for the baseboard heaters.

I may have misspoken, there are not two zones. One pipe off the boiler for supply, and then 2 lines come into one for the return.

Here's the image of the gauge. I did close the valve and open the spigot to bleed line. Ran till water came out with any "spitting" of air. Pressure came back as seen in gauge below:

Found that hot water ran to next set of baseboards but not through entire system.

Here is the image again of the valve that I closed then opened spigot.


I also loosen the schrader valve atop the tank and pushed down to let out water as instructed.


The next section that is not getting hot water has a bleed valve which I have opened, just getting cold water.

Please advise I assume I'm running into some type of hydro lock, air, etc..

You've been very helpful....so close!

Thanks

PS let me know if you need additional photos...or questions I can supply?
 
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  #11  
Old 01-24-16, 09:24 AM
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Here are the images of the bleed above the tank and at end of 3rd run....
 
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  #12  
Old 01-24-16, 09:27 AM
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Here is the image again of the valve that I closed then opened spigot.
Is it the same pic I posted in post # 8?

Try bleeding again but increase the pressure while blleding by lifting the fill handle here.. Get it up near 30 when blleding. You may need to take a 5 gallon bucket of more out.. Must open boiler drain full to bleed, not a trickle..

Whatch the pressure that it does not go past 30. When done close fill valve level and let pressure go down to about 12psi the close bloiler drain and open ball valve..

Try that.. If that dont work possibly the circ is not running?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]62015[/ATTACH]


Also as stated the circ is going the wrong way.. Im suprised your getting heat at all and the boiler is not Kettleing... Have that fixed..
 
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  #13  
Old 01-24-16, 09:28 AM
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Here is where I shut the valve and drained via spigot prior to firing up the boiler.
 
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  #14  
Old 01-24-16, 09:31 AM
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I would say ontop of the circ fix you should change the airvent here too..

The streaks show its probably no good and was leaking...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]62025[/ATTACH]
 
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  #15  
Old 01-24-16, 09:49 AM
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That air vent has just been replace as well as the valve to let water in. Water lines are from me bleeding.
 
  #16  
Old 01-24-16, 09:53 AM
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Yes pretty much the same photo/area.

Going to bleed it now. Do I leave everything running when doing this procedure?

Not sure I understand the "circ"...before I replaced the pipes it was running fine (heat). Could you walk me through what needs to be changed again please.

Also explain "Kettleing".
 
  #17  
Old 01-24-16, 10:12 AM
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[ATTACH=CONFIG]62039[/ATTACH]

Just to be clear, the PEX lines are either both supply or return runs from separate loops.
 
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  #18  
Old 01-24-16, 10:27 AM
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Yes that is correct one goes out and the other two loop back from the baseboards.

I just open valve to increase pressure to 30 psi, closed valve, them opened spigot ...did twice with about 4 1/2 gallons of water each time . As water comes out pressure drops to 20, and water starts to refill keeping pressure at 20 psi.

Just want to confirm when I do this procedure I leave everything running.
 
  #19  
Old 01-24-16, 07:34 PM
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Well basement is warm even though not all baseboards are working yet.

So went to the last two baseboards and opened up the bleed valve (see #11). Ran a couple gallons out and started to get hot water! Closed the bleed, checked back in 20 min's and back to cold pipes.

Look to your thoughts again

thanks
 
  #20  
Old 01-24-16, 07:45 PM
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Its air bound.... .....................
 
  #21  
Old 01-24-16, 07:47 PM
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Any valves up there on the large pipes? Or on orange pipes?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]62068[/ATTACH]
 
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  #22  
Old 01-25-16, 03:17 PM
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Yes there is a valve at the end of each of the large pipes.

In the photo the valve furthest to the left is open (which is the return run) and the other is closed (supply) side.
 
  #23  
Old 01-25-16, 03:19 PM
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In the photo the valve furthest to the left is open (which is the return run) and the other is closed (supply) side.
why is it open?

And I mean any other valves from that point to the boiler on the copper mains...?
 
  #24  
Old 01-25-16, 03:36 PM
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There should be no issues on why that line cant be bled..


[ATTACH=CONFIG]62084[/ATTACH]
 
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  #25  
Old 01-25-16, 11:48 PM
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You may be missing balancing valves where you have two or more loops in parallel.

Hydronic System Piping Alternatives[pdf]
In figure 1 their should be balance valves where the loops join the system return header.


The importance of pressure differential in a hydronic system[pdf] <-- DEAD LINK See Attachment CounterPointNovember2002-A.pdf
 
  #26  
Old 02-01-16, 01:33 PM
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Up and running.....system is hot

Thanks to all
 
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