Having problems with my heating and my Hydrostat 3250

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Old 01-23-16, 09:15 AM
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Having problems with my heating and my Hydrostat 3250

Hello all, I am having problems with my system. I set my Thermostat in the hosue to 74 and the tmep never gets above 64 on a really cold days (blizzard outside now and about 25 degrees).

I had petro come out 3 times (have a service contract) and they say the furnace is working fine.

I have the hydrostat 3250 setup on a Weil-Mclain Gold Oil furnace. The hydrostat is set up on indirect switc, jumper is removed, HL is 185, LL 175 and ECO is off. The furnace kicks on when the display shows 165 and goes up to 175 and the furnace kicks off. Even with the furnace not kicked on the number on the hydrostat rises to about 180 and then begins to drop until it reaches 165 before it kicks back on (cycle keeps repeating). I was under the assumption that the furnance should run until it reached the HL of 185 and then kick off and then come back on when it drops below 175?

There is a manual guage on the furnace that shows psi and temp and that temp gauge shows 210 when the furnace kicks off so I do not know how that relates to the hydrostat settings.

The hosue is very inefficient. There is no insulation under the house so the floors get very coold and the windows are old so they leak a bunch. I know this makes it harder to heat the house (working with the owner to get this fixed) but I just wanted to make sure that the furnace was working correctly and that the water was heating to a high enough temp to get the house warmer. Do I need to raise the water temp even more? Anything else I can look into, change or do on myend to help recify the situation? Thanks so much for any help in advance.
 
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Old 01-23-16, 09:42 AM
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Welcome to the forums.

I'm not the pro here but I'd say you have the water about as hot as you can safely go.
It would appear that you are lacking in emitters and, of course, the insulation isn't helping.
 
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Old 01-23-16, 11:21 AM
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hi Eric Ė

Iím not an expert or pro but I think that is correct for the burner to come on when the temp drops below 165 when the Low Limit is set to 175. The Hydrostat 3250 manual does not state that but I know some of the Honeywell controls work that way, that is, the burner comes on when the temp drops 10 degrees below the Low Limit. I think it has to work that way otherwise the burner would oscillate ON/OFF around a given number (e.g., 175) coming ON/OFF too much.

The figure 7 on page 6 shows how the Honeywell L7224 handles the burner, although itís just an assumption the Hydrostat 3250 works similarly. But I bet it does.

https://www.forwardthinking.honeywel...ll/69_1720.pdf

Even with the furnace not kicked on the number on the hydrostat rises to about 180 and then begins to drop until it reaches 165 before it kicks back on (cycle keeps repeating).
That seems right to me anyway. The burner will stop at 175 when bringing the temp up to the Low Limit but the temp will rise a little bit more than that, in other words the temp wonít stop on a dime since there has already been heat put into the system (there is a term for that but I canít remember what it is. In my 70ís- I forget a lot, lol). Iím pretty sure thatís OK and how it works.

However, if you read 210 temp on the boiler gauge but read something much lower on the Hydrostat display then I think maybe something is wrong there. I have a Honeywell L7224 and when I read the temp on the display it isnít very far different from the temperature I read on the boiler gauge. So if your burner stops at 185 but the temp really gets up to 210, I donít know if 25 degrees overshoot (or whatever itís called, lol) makes sense. Maybe one of the pros can clarify that.

I guess your boiler gauge may just be inaccurate. Iím pretty sure you canít count on those.

(blizzard outside now and about 25 degrees).
Are you near Philly? Iím about 25 miles NW of Philly and I thought I was getting 8-12 inches Ė haha! Itís about 25 degrees outside now, and a blizzard, and I have about 3 feet of snow with bigger drifts Ė and it wonít stop!! Itíll take me to April to dig out.
 
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Old 01-23-16, 02:35 PM
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If Eric comes back I can offer some more suggestions.
 
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Old 01-23-16, 07:23 PM
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Thanks for the help guys. I really do appreciate it!

Yeah they told us here in NYC we'd get about 6-10 and we got about 2 feet by me. lol!

I rent this house so there isn't much I can do to fix the non insulated floors that are so cold I wear shoes in the house. I know it kills me on the heating bill but i care more about the house getting to a 70-72 temp range than what i pay. I rather be warm and poor than freezing and still semi poor.

The Hydrostat was set on ECO 2 prior to me setting it to ECO off so the heat has got a bit better today since doing that but still not getting as warm as i'd like. I might have to go look into the DIY insulation and home sealing section then trying to mess with the boiler, that might help keep the cold out or the heat in, instead of trying to run the furnace at too high a temp just to get the house warm. Still i am willing to try anything
 
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Old 01-24-16, 06:43 PM
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Yeah they told us here in NYC we'd get about 6-10 and we got about 2 feet by me. lol!
I know what you mean, I actually got 32 inches - the prediction was 8-12. lol


Hope Furd stops back here. He has pretty good ideas.
 
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Old 01-24-16, 08:15 PM
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The hi and low need to be at least 20 f apart on the hydrostat for it to work properly. Your is set for 10f..

HL is 185, LL 175
Lower the lo to 165..


The hydrostat is set up on indirect switc, jumper is removed,
What do you mean? Is there an indirecrt heater or a tankless coil???

What type of heat emitters in the home? Cast rads? Copper finned baseboard???

Let us know...
 
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Old 01-25-16, 07:40 AM
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hi guys Ė


I thought 10 degrees differential wouldnít work, but this is from page 7 of the manual:


For proper operation, the low temperature limit setting should be at least 10įbelow the high limit setting.
http://www.hydrolevel.com/pages/pdf_...f?lbisphpreq=1
 
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Old 01-25-16, 07:44 AM
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I thought 10 degrees differential wouldnít work, but this is from page 7 of the manual:
Im really not liking the hydrolevel these days.... Just my opinion though...
 
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Old 01-25-16, 08:09 AM
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IMHO their manual stinks - at least compared to Honeywell. It seems to me something like the Honeywell L7224 Aquastat manual describes in detail how these limits work together, which relays close, and when, etc.

I don't see that in the HydroStat manual. Looks like you have to guess IMHO.
 
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Old 01-25-16, 12:12 PM
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Hi thanks for all the responses.

I am unsure if it is a tankless coil or a indirect heater. I am a rent the house plus I don't know how to tell either.

The house has cast iron base board radiators (not those old school tall thin radiators, but base board radiators very short very long along the wall but made of cast iron.) on the Hydro stat 3250 there is a switch that can be set to zone or indirect. That switch is set to indirect. Not sure why it set to that but it is.

I would lower the LL to 165 but then it woudl take longer to heat the hosue since the water temp would be10 deg lower and the ambient heat loss and cold getting into the house would win out.

With it being set to 175 for the LL right now the house was able to get to 69 the last two days when it was 10 degrees. Today that it is 38 my hosue is sitting at 72.
 
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Old 01-25-16, 12:54 PM
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and that temp gauge shows 210 when the furnace kicks off so I do not know how that relates to the hydrostat settings.
I would go by that gauge.. The boiler is plenty hot.. IMO there are not enough baseboard in that drafty home...

Since you are renting you really need to take it up with the landlord...
 
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Old 01-25-16, 07:16 PM
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Thanks. I tried but the landlord won't spend money to insulate under the house / floors or replace windows that are old and leak tons of air.

I tried to do all I can to keep the house warm on those bitter cold dayes 20 deg or less.
 
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