Zone valve sticking or bad?

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Old 01-25-16, 06:48 AM
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Zone valve sticking or bad?

This morning I stumbled downstairs to be greeted by a blast of cold air. When I first walked down the baseboard kicker fan in my kitchen was running so I thought maybe it was just heating up, but now nothing on the downstairs zone is heating.
I've swapped out the thermostats from upstairs to down to make sure that wasn't part of the problem. I switched the lever for the downstairs zone from auto to open but still nothing. I did notice that the lever moved easier than I remember it moving in the past, so perhaps it's broken? Finally I gave the zone valve a couple of light raps with a small hammer trying to get it to unstick in case of mineral build up. Zone valve is a Taco 571-2

Any other suggestions?
 
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Old 01-25-16, 06:56 AM
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Maybe the head is shot.. You should be able to open manually to get heat when the other zone calls..

Read instructions here... Just move the lever to manual...


http://s3.supplyhouse.com/manuals/13..._PROD_FILE.pdf
 
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Old 01-25-16, 07:14 AM
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With the downstairs zone set to open and the upstairs successfully calling for heat I still don't get warm water through the downstairs pipes.

If the head is shot is it a simple replace?
 
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Old 01-25-16, 07:17 AM
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I think the disk is stuck.. You may needs to replace the whole valve or disk..

With both t stats off is there resistance on the level of the valve in question?
 
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Old 01-25-16, 07:20 AM
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And I dont know about canging the guts without draining the system.. First you need to determine if the head is working electronically...

You can twist off the head and look to see if the mechanism moves when t stat activated..
 
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Old 01-25-16, 07:22 AM
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Old 01-25-16, 07:23 AM
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Just to make sure I'm following - you mean physical resistance to movement correct? If so then the answer is no, there is no resistance to moving the lever of the valve in question when both of the thermostats are off.
 
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Old 01-25-16, 07:34 AM
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And so you know check the other zone for resistance to compare.....
 
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Old 01-25-16, 07:34 AM
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I have no voltage to the valve with the thermostat on, guess that could be a problem?

I'm guessing I move up to the thermostat now?
 
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Old 01-25-16, 07:42 AM
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Check voltage on other t stat to compare...

One transformer should be powering both zonevalves, so yes can be a t stat issue maybe...
 
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Old 01-25-16, 08:24 AM
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No voltage to either valve, with both on and calling for heat. With that reading I went ahead and checked to make sure the meter was working with a power supply.
I also get no voltage reading at the transformer pictured below that I think has wires going to the thermostats.
Name:  Heater transformer.jpg
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Old 01-25-16, 10:18 AM
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Could it be that the transformer is bad?
 
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Old 01-25-16, 11:11 AM
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Yes, the transformer may be bad. Feel it, it should be noticeably warm but not so hot as to burn you. If it is room temperature then it is not working. Check for 120 volts AC on the primary side first and IF you get the proper voltage then the transformer is definitely bad.

I have to ask, you DID have the meter set to read AC voltage when you checked the transformer, correct? Also, that appears to be a 20 VA (volt-ampere) transformer and if so it should be replaced by a 40 VA.
 
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Old 01-25-16, 11:30 AM
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Also clearly that switch powers the transformer.. Its on right? Yes check for 120volts also.. Possible you have a tripped breaker in the panel...


And if both zones are not working then you original post is deceiving that it seemed you had heat from one of them....

Off topic.. ( Thanks Joel for helping out my friend Here and in other forum heating issues .. NJT has been a no show and I cant reply to all of the help request on the heating forums.. I appreciate it.. Other them NJT, you, TO heating and R beck there are not many here that can guide the members..)
 
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Old 01-25-16, 12:39 PM
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Mike, thanks for all your help! I'll have to scoot my way across the bridge and buy you a beer sometime. Of course at this point I probably couldn't find the freeway for all the friggin' snow here in the western burbs of Philly.

Back on point... I'm sorry to say that I'm the idiot who didn't read through the provided material closely enough and missed that it was converted to 24 VAC not 24VDC. So with that said lets back up -
With thermostats set to demand more heat I have 22 volts on the problem valve, 24 on the working valve.

... and I'm super glad you asked and made sure what voltage I was checking for!
 
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Old 01-25-16, 01:49 PM
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Disconnect one of the power wires on the zone valve and measure the voltage. If it rises to 24 but drops to 22 when reconnected it signifies that the motor is jammed.
 
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Old 01-25-16, 02:04 PM
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it signifies that the motor is jammed
And believe it or not I never worked on taco zonevalves. Not common here on east cost.. I believe the head just swaps out if so...


Head only...


555-050RP - Taco 555-050RP - Zone Valve Power Head (Series 570)

Seems depot has them but not sure if same model #...

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Power-Hea...50RP/202270182


Thanks Joel....
 
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Old 01-25-16, 04:04 PM
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Replaced the Power Head per instructions found here:
http://www.republicsupplyco.com/SpecSheets/102-076.pdf

Still no heat.

Any other thoughts?
 
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Old 01-25-16, 05:06 PM
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idk..IDK.. Its just a plunger that rests on a seat.

This vid may help.. Must be something thats not opening it..

Is there resistance with the new head on the lever?

Where did you get the head?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EaJmn_M7Ac0
 
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