Wrong time to be asking but it's cold out and I wonder what I should check

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  #41  
Old 02-15-16, 09:40 AM
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For those of you helping me with this, again, thank you very much.

I am on the list for PSE&G to come out today to check the pressure. Based on what you guys have been saying and me not able to leave things, I keep playing with things. Last night, I turned off the on/pilot/off switch on the Honeywell VR8200A 2421, let things cool, turned to pilot, held the button and lit the pilot. THen released the red button after a minute. The pilot got a little smaller. and when the burner flames came on, their height wasn't any differfent than before.

Then turned it off again, took the exit port off of the Honeywell VR8200A 2421 (with 4 hex cap screws) that feeds the pipes in the burner and blew compressed air in there. A fair amount of 'red' dust came out (and some likely went in farther into the unit?).

Put it back together, lit the pilot and the burner flames were larger, but more yellow than before. this morning (with it a bit warmer outside) the water was 170 degrees and house was up to upper 70s.

So yeah, that valve / regulator? controller Honeywell VR8200A 2421 is liekly the culprit? Yeah, still waiting for PSEG to confirm house pressure is OK.

But now:

1) do you just take the gas connections off the Honeywell VR8200A 2421 and blow compressed air in there to get rid of dust that's clogging things / causing pressure drop?
2) or do you replace the Honeywell VR8200A 2421?
3) if I'm replacing, do I just get that same item? I see it available on the web, but is there a superceded item? A 'better' one?
4) is this user replacable part? it's dealing with gas. A water leak, I get a towel. A gas leak... can get messier : )
5) Can I just sign up for PSEG worry free plan maintenance plan (8.50 / month for at least 12 months) and get PSEG to replace it? Is that a part covered under that plan? Or do they just blow out the dust in the existing one?
6) is this a pre-existing condition for the worry free plan and not covered?

thanks!
 
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  #42  
Old 02-15-16, 09:41 AM
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Unless it is a cold start hydronic system the minimum temperature when the burner has just stopped running should be over 140F and not more than 180F.

Even if PSE&G gas pressure was low the burner would just run longer to reach set temperature.

Since the temp boiler gauge can be wrong, find some other way of measuring temp.. If gauge reading is verified then most likely cause is the L818E controller. The dial on L818E is not accurate and should not be used as an indicator of water temp. Use it only or reference to move temp up 5 or 10 degrees but not as a temp indicator.


Th L818E is what controls system temperature. One simple way to monitor it is to wire a pilot light to the switch that will show "call for heat" status. If that is on and the burner is not running then the problem is else where. If off when water temp dial is under 140F something is wrong with it.

If the controller is bad, consider replacing it with modern efficient Out Door Reset unit for a few dollars more. They make for far more comfortable home and save 5% + on heating costs.
 
  #43  
Old 02-15-16, 09:52 AM
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Gas valves are never cleaned or rebuilt..... they are replaced. Technically, I don't consider the gas valve a DIY replacement job. You may inquire with PSE&G. They will give you a fair price.
 
  #44  
Old 02-15-16, 09:55 AM
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Doughass - thanks. You are talking about the aquastat, right? My last post has moved to the gas valve at the base of the boiler.

It would seem at this point that there's some sort of low pressure / flow restriction issue. even with the unit running continuously, there's not enough gas to produce enough heat to heat water enough to overcome the heat loss from trying to heat the house (at least when the outside temp was 10 like it was this weekend.).

can you check my last post #41 and share your thoughts on that if you have the time?

thanks!
 
  #45  
Old 02-15-16, 10:01 AM
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PJ. Thanks. good to know how they will handle it.
 
  #46  
Old 02-15-16, 10:42 AM
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Unless it is a cold start hydronic system the minimum temperature when the burner has just stopped running should be over 140F and not more than 180F.

Even if PSE&G gas pressure was low the burner would just run longer to reach set temperature.

Since the temp boiler gauge can be wrong, find some other way of measuring temp.. If gauge reading is verified then most likely cause is the L818E controller. The dial on L818E is not accurate and should not be used as an indicator of water temp. Use it only or reference to move temp up 5 or 10 degrees but not as a temp indicator.

Th L818E is what controls system temperature. One simple way to monitor it is to wire a pilot light to the switch that will show "call for heat" status. If that is on and the burner is not running then the problem is else where. If off when water temp dial is under 140F something is wrong with circuit controlling burner. Temporarily connect the red and blue wires on the brown microswitch and the burner should start in a few seconds. If it starts then the controller is defective.

If the controller is bad, consider replacing it with modern efficient Out Door Reset unit for a few dollars more. They make for far more comfortable home and save 5% + on heating costs.
 
  #47  
Old 02-15-16, 11:28 AM
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OH MY GOD! I really have to get over my fear of delegation / inability to rely on others / stop trying to do everything myself (and I do things myself more because I can't / don't want to delegate / rely on others than for the enjoyment. Although I DO enjoy learning / pride of doing things.... but that inability to delegate is a big part of why I do things.

Anyway, psych class is over.

The PSE&G tech just left. While we're talking after he did his work, the system got to 190 degrees (10 minutes!?) after being off / water at 120 for 1/2 hour? He tweaked the aquastat that I raised a bit.

He took apart the gas lines to / from the Honeywell VR8200A 2421, blew out a load of dust, cleaned out the built up dust good (he said if I had the service contract, he'd have replaced the unit rather than clean), blew out the line to the pilot light, put it back together and answered all my trivial questions. It SOUNDS better : )

Interesting experience. I would have played with this for weeks more or just had the whole thing replaced if not for the advice here and the PSE&G guy making feel comfortable that he knew his stuff.

Just 1 last question - so what's the 'lever' on the aquastat dial vs. the dial itself? What should the lever be set to and what does it do vs. the dial setting?

THANK YOU ALL!!!
 
  #48  
Old 02-15-16, 02:06 PM
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Take a pic of the a stat or give us the model #....
 
  #49  
Old 02-15-16, 06:10 PM
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so what's the 'lever' on the aquastat dial vs. the dial itself? What should the lever be set to and what does it do vs. the dial setting?
It is a user adjustable High Limit Dial Stop. (Figure 15) Set to the highest temperature the system and boiler should operate.

Product Data and Specifications-Product Data for L8148A, L8148E, L8148J Aquastat Relays (English) [pdf]
 
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