Taco 406 & indirect water heater wiring guidance

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Old 05-23-16, 06:17 AM
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Taco 406 & indirect water heater wiring guidance

Hi,
I am looking for some guidance in adding a Taco 406 control and an indirect water heater. This is my first house, and I have done a ton of reading and researching to learn about how my heating system works. Im fairly mechanically inclined, but just wanted to check in with some experts like NJTrooper, to see if my thought process is correct.
My current setup is:
I have a Burnham V8H Oil fired boiler with a Honeywell L7224C-1004 Aquastat.
I have 5 heating zones in the system they all run off of one circulator pump and have the 3 wire taco zone valves for each of the 5 zones. The current wiring has the single circulator pump running off /getting power from the L7224C aquastat.

My DHW is currently delivered via a tankless coil in the boiler. The tankless coil gasket looks in rough shape, and leaks if the boiler is cold, the aquastat is set to maintain temp and not give a cold start, so thankfully the boiler does not leak because it is normally warm. The tankless would only leak if there was a power outage, or extended service on the boiler. Long story short, im in the process of finishing my basement, so I do not want the liability of water damage if the tankless gives out. We also have a growing family, and will need the increased DHW capacity in years to come. Im going to hire a plumber to install an indirect SuperStor tank, but looking to save by doing the wiring myself. The plumber would remove the tankless coil and put a blank plate to prevent issues in future.

With all the background info being said . Adding the Taco406 supplying 120v, removing existing 2 transformers, and wiring the existing zone valves and tstats seems pretty straightforward. I also go from the "isolated end switch" on the 406 to the TT terminals on my honeywell aquastat (correct?) I plan to do all that before the plumber comes to install the indirect tank.

I researched that I should use a separate circulator pump for the new indirect zone. It will also need its own control or aquastat correct? So the wiring would go from the new indirect water heater aquastat to the 406's zone 6 priority tstat connection. The I believe i need to jumper the zone valve 3&4 for zone 6? and connect 120V from the new pump to the 406's zone 6 pump end switch? this is where I start to get a bit confused and would love some guidance. Also are my current assumptions and plan correct?

Thank you!
 
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Old 05-23-16, 09:02 AM
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That's a great control,I use the same one ,you are on track with your wiring, my hot water tank is set up as separate zone with zone valve just like the other zones,be aware that you have to rewire the zone valves back to the 406.
 
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Old 05-23-16, 06:23 PM
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What are the tail numbers on your control and the serial number on the boiler. You may not need the new zone panel. Some of the V8 controls can be wired for two pumps which means even though the circ for heat is wired to the panel the indirect could be wired to the boiler.
Also make sure the indirect water heater is piped in 1" to and from the boiler.
 
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Old 05-24-16, 05:29 AM
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Hi Thanks for the feedback!
I actually already have the Taco ZVC406 and have completed most of the wiring, so we have already gone to far down that road. I also like the peace of mind of the 406's indicator lights for diagnosing, and that I know the built in transformers will handle the load of the 6 zones.

So i did some further research. It looks like I will connect the new pump's black wire to the N/O (normally opened) zone 6 end switch contact. And connect the pumps neutral and ground into the 406's power supply. And then pig tail a black from the 406's power supply to the Middle common terminal of the zone 6 end switch.
Does that sound accurate? That should only allow the indirect's circulator pump to come on when the control on the indirect calls for it. And the system circulator will still be controlled by the aquastat on the boiler.
 
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Old 05-24-16, 07:10 AM
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No, if you check the drawings ,the zone 6 relay gets fed through the pump end switch.
 
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Old 05-24-16, 09:39 AM
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But what if i am not using the pump end switch. I only have one circulator for the heating zones. And that is controlled/powered by my honeywell aquastat connected to the boiler. The honeywell aquastat is connected to the "isolated end switch" on the 24v side of the board.

I dont have anything connected to the pump end switch.....
 
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Old 05-24-16, 11:32 AM
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Got it, then your method should work fine, if you should encounter a prober contact Taco CS they are quite helpful.let us know the out come.
 
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Old 07-13-16, 06:24 AM
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Best Way To Run Thermostat Wires

I have added a superstor indirect water heater to my burnham boiler, you guys were super helpful during my initial post about how to wire. As a quick background: My system has one circulator and 5 zones. The plumber ended up running a 1" 6th zone for the IWH using a taco 4 wire fast opening type zone valve (ELB i think?). Everything is working great, i did the wiring to the taco ZVC406 that i installed earlier this month. Very simple to run the 4 wire zone valve to the priority zone on the ZVC and the supersor aquastat to the 6th priority zone RW on the ZVC.
I just ran the wires temporarily so my family would have hot water and I am now in the phase where i would like to clean it up and make it look nicer.
The basement ceilings are about 8ft high and I have the ZVC mounted to the ceiling. The zone valve is about 5ft up and the the aquastat for the IWH is about 3 ft or so from the floor. My question is how do most folks run the thermostat wire. I dont like the idea of wires just hanging in space.

1. Can i zip tie them neatly to the existing copper zone pipe running from the boiler, i can piggy back on one of the pipes up to the ceiling and run to my ZVC. Any concerns about those pipes getting too hot and melting the thermostat wire insulation?
2. I can use MC/Flex type conduit however there is not 1/2 knockout type fitting for the taco zone valve. How is this normally terminated for a zone valve?

Would appreciate any insight as to how this is typically done.

Thanks again!
 
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Old 07-13-16, 08:04 AM
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The installation went well. Everything is working great. Taco CS was very responsive to say they received my question and asked a followup question to me (which i promptly replied), but then never actually answered me back... kind of strange. But anyway - From a best practices standpoint, my boiler aquastat is set to i believe 160-180. What should my indirect water heater aquastat be set to? I think my mixing valve is set to around 120 degrees.
 
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Old 07-13-16, 08:38 AM
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Since both threads were on a similar topic.... they were combined.

There are a lot of ways that can be handled since it's low voltage. Maybe you could post a picture or two of what you have there so we can come up with some ideas. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
 
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