honeywell R7284U setup problem

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  #1  
Old 10-13-16, 07:29 PM
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honeywell R7284U setup problem

I have changed out my R8182D aquastat to the L7224U and added the R7284U oil primary control. Aquastat setup went fine, works properly but I can not get the R7284U to work. It is wired exactly per the manual. TT is jumpered on the 7284. I can complete the installer setup but nothing happens. Aquastat calls for heat, B1 / Limit sends 120 volts to 7284, nothing. L1 supplies constant 120 volts to 7284. I can wire motor, igniter and valve directly to the red limit wire while unhooked from the 7284 and the gun fires right up when aquastat calls for heat but none of the delays from the program work. What have I overlooked ? Also, I have read all of the old posts about the 7184/7284 and there are several comments about combining the L1 and Limit wires together. How is this done and what does it accomplish ? Boiler is used as single zone unit. Thanks
 
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Old 10-14-16, 11:06 AM
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Deezul –

I don’t have the 7284 but from what I read and what you are saying, I assume you are seeing “STANDBY” on the 7284 display - but you never see the display change to “CALL FOR HEAT” even when the Aquastat applies voltage (120v) on the Limit wire.

I think the 7284 manual says the control won’t move from STANDBY if it detects a bad CAD cell. This link explains how to check that out.

https://www.beckettcorp.com/support/...-the-cad-cell/

Also, IMHO, the setup menu item “TT Configured ON” seems really clumsy to me. You say YES if you want external TT ON or NO if you want it OFF and OFF means TT is jumpered internally. But anyway, I think if you accidentally have that set to “YES” the 7284 won’t assert the internal TT jumper and I would assume the control would not change to “CALL FOR HEAT” when Limit is asserted. But I’m not sure - yet that’s easy to check.

Just a couple of things you could check. Otherwise it sounds to me like the control could be bad. Hope one of the experts jumps in.
 
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Old 10-14-16, 02:02 PM
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Thanks for the info.

The LED readout on the 7284 shows the cad cell at 200 ohms in the dark. Good or bad ? Cad cell is almost new - less than 10 hours of use. I thought the 7284 might be a dud so I bought another - it does not work either - I now have 2 duds or 1 spare. I will pick up a couple of new cad cells and see what happens. I re-checked the TT settings and is in the NO position with a external jumper on the 7284.
 
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Old 10-14-16, 02:19 PM
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Read the link Zoe's dad posted. Cad cell 200 ohms in the dark is definitely not right. Steve
 
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Old 10-14-16, 03:04 PM
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I read the link - cad cell cannot be tested by the procedure in the link because the "call for heat" is locked out and the motor/gun does not operate - I will have new cad cells first of the week.
 
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Old 10-14-16, 06:24 PM
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Deezul –

What I was thinking is that if you look at page 9 of this manual-

https://customer.honeywell.com/resou...0s/69-2467.pdf

where it says “.

Safety Period (5 seconds) internal and external check for flame or light. If flame or light is detected, control remains in the Standby Mode.”
then it seems to me that the test labeled “Symptom #1” on that CAD test from the prior link, would tell you whether the CAD is the problem. That test for Symptom #1 is right up front so I don’t think you need the motor running to test that part. At least I don’t think so. I think the motor would start running if the CAD was the problem and you followed the test procedure for Symptom #1. And as sdodder says it would seem 200 ohms in the dark is not right.
 
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Old 10-15-16, 06:26 AM
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Does the R7284 display anything?

Wired correctly the R7284 when powered on display should read "Software Version" then "Standby" until call for heat 120 V on Red limit starts the cycle.

If no display check voltage between Li and L2.

One common problem on R7284 with spade lug terminals is poor connection. If they slip on too easily, or the wire to them is not crimped properly then no or intermittent connection.

Recently at season startup my motor would not start. Before removing it I disconnected the motor leads from the controller. Applied 120 volts and motor ran. Cause poor crimp on white ground wire female spade.

The female crimp is often the problem. If loose, or slips on too easily when mated, gently with pliers close up either side of the "c_c" female connector to partially reduce the gap in them. Sometimes I replace the female or solder the wire to it.

The red "Limit" can also be thought of as "Start." It should only go the the aquastat or call for heat source. Connected to L1 limits some of the R728U features. On older models that could be done but not on R7284U
 
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