Replacement for Watts 70A Tempering Valve

Reply

  #1  
Old 11-07-16, 11:48 AM
K
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: United States
Posts: 2
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Replacement for Watts 70A Tempering Valve

Hi All,


I have some hot water supply problems at my house. When the shower is first turned on the water is somewhat hot however fairly quickly it becomes just lukewarm. Also faucets, while they do not seem as bad as the shower, they are not running as hot as they used to.

The hot water is supplied by a Burnham boiler (model 83WFH) which supplies heat and hot water. The hot water passes through a Watts 70A tempering valve which was installed when the house was built (almost 20 years ago). The valve itself looks a bit rough. It has a slow leak, also has green stains from the leaking water and the adjustment wheel no longer turns.

From what I have read on these forums, the tempering valve is a likely culprit for the hot water issues so given that it is leaking and seized, I was going to replace the valve. Other posts I read suggested that there are better valves that will last longer. I was looking at this on amazon...

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Aqu.../dp/B002CWKG3U


But I am not really sure (am just a homeowner who likes to fix stuff myself). Please let me know what tempering valve you would suggest? If there is something that you think is better than the Watts 70A?


Thanks,
Ken.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 11-07-16, 02:42 PM
S
Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 2,998
Received 50 Votes on 47 Posts
Ken
Although the mixing valve could be the problem, by your description of the problem I would check the tankless coil first. Over a period of time lime deposits build up in the coil and doesn't allow the boiler water to heat the water in the coil as it passes through. The fact that you get hot water to begin with is because the water inside the coil has had a chance to heat up when no water was being drawn and then once the water starts passing through the coil boiler water cannot penetrate the coil to heat the water because of the lime that has built up. It acts as insulation.
I would suggest you turn on your tub since that is your biggest draw and feel the hot water outlet on the coil before the mixing valve. I think you will find that the pipe will start cooling down as you continue to run the hot water. Since this is before the mixing valve it takes it out of the equation and will not do any good to just replace that valve.
As far as the mixing valve goes the watts probably is as good as any for your purpose. Watts also makes a replacement element you can pop in so you don't have to solder in a whole new valve.
I hope this helps.
 
  #3  
Old 11-07-16, 03:15 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 59,083
Received 1,110 Votes on 1,030 Posts
Welcome to the forums.

I have to afree with spott. It does sound like a partially clogged or mineraled up hot water coil.

What is your method of heating..... gas, oil, electric ?
Have you considered installing a water heater and giving the boiler a break in the summer.
 
  #4  
Old 11-07-16, 04:46 PM
G
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 2,981
Received 11 Votes on 11 Posts
Please answer PJ's question. What is your fuel source? If natural gas, abandon the tankless coil, and install a stand-alone 40-gal gas hot-water heater.
 
  #5  
Old 11-07-16, 05:48 PM
K
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: United States
Posts: 2
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Hi,


Thanks for the replies. Our method of heating is oil so if we were to get a water heater then it would need to be electric I guess. Is that still a preferred option compared to the tankless coil?

Spott,


The Burnham boiler is around 10 years old. Our first boiler had to be replaced due to a cracked water jacket so I assume that the coil would have been replaced as part of the boiler replacement whereas the other parts of the system are older. I imagine that 10 years would still be old enough for a decent build up of lime deposit anyway so I will test the output pipe to see if it cools during constant draw.


Thanks,
Ken.
 
  #6  
Old 11-07-16, 06:09 PM
S
Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 2,998
Received 50 Votes on 47 Posts
Ken
It all depends on the quality of water in your area and how much water you go through, if you have use water filters. I have seen them go longer and shorter.
The tankless is a very inefficient way to produce hot water because you have to maintain boiler temp. all year long just in case you want hot water. A better way to go is an indirect water heater. It's a stand alone tank but works as a separate zone off your boiler. That's another story. Electric is expensive to run.
As far as the coil being replaced, you never know. I would like to think so but Burnham is very cheap and if it was a warranty job they sometimes just send the block and you have to reuse everything else.
If it is your coil you have 2 options if you want to stay with a coil. You can replace it or get it cleaned. They can run an acid bath through the coil and delime it.
 
Reply
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: