Riello Problems

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  #1  
Old 12-21-16, 05:58 PM
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Riello Problems

Hi guys, so I decided to try servicing my own boiler today. It's a Riello 40 burner with a Biasi boiler about 8 years old. I changed the nozzle and replaced the oil filter. I also brushed out the boiler and did some vacuuming.

I had a lot of difficulty in bleeding the oil lines. My filter is on top of the tank and it's a dual line system. I have a steady stream of oil coming out of the bleed nipple on the pump, so I think it's fully purged/bled.

The boiler will not fire now and I'm not sure what to do. I still think it's an oil delivery problem. I even installed the old nozzle thinking it may have been the new nozzle, but no dice.

Help!

Thanks.
 
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  #2  
Old 12-21-16, 07:03 PM
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If you have a 2 pipe system you do not bleed the lines. It bleeds itself. Your best bet is to follow the instructions in your riello book or go on line for a manual and follow what they tell you.

Riello is different from other burners and is difficult to explain to someone with limited knowledge. Manual would be better but I'm pretty sure it's a bleeding issue.

RIELLO 40 F5 Installation & Operating Manual Page 14

Copy and paste this and you may get your answer.

Hope this helps.
 
  #3  
Old 12-21-16, 07:37 PM
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Thanks spott. I did follow the manual for the bleeding and it only worked once. I shined the light to the photcell location, and it stayed in prepurge for a bit, then I heard the air shutter open. The boiler fired and I thought all was well.

I left the house for a bit and when I came back the reset was tripped and the bleed procedure didn't work. The burner will stay in prepurge for minutes before I decide it's just not going to bleed, and shut it off.
 
  #4  
Old 12-22-16, 07:37 AM
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69t-

I’m no expert for sure and I don’t have the Riello (Beckett AFG). I looked at the page spott referred to and I see what you are saying, it sounds like you performed the purge the way described on page 14 for a 2 line system.

I see on page 14 they say:

When the pump is sufficiently purged, the hydraulic air shutter will open.
But I wonder what happens if there is air in the line further up near the tank. Does “sufficiently purged” in their instructions mean it is certain that all air has been purged from the oil line? I don’t see how it could – but I could be wrong.

The reason I’m wondering about that is because when I’ve had to purge in the past there were times when there was some air trapped in the oil line (I have a single line) further up near the tank, where I changed the oil filter. I think because I didn’t fill the canister with oil when I put in the filter and I didn’t use the bleeder screw on the oil filter. My bad.

The burner would run for some time (I think many minutes) and then shut off, I guess when a pocket of air hit the pump and nozzle. I had to purge multiple times before the burner would stay running.

I wonder if you should continue trying several more times to see what happens. Maybe you have a lot of air in the line.

Just a thought!

(p.s. I know it's not the same as the Riello but one time i had to purge about 8x before I got the burner running)
 
  #5  
Old 12-22-16, 07:47 AM
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Thanks zoesdad. I did in fact, forget to fill the oil filter housing, so when the burner wouldn't ignite, I filled the filter housing with diesel fuel. I am getting red heating oil out of the bleed screw now, so do you think it's possible I still have an air bubble somewhere?
 
  #6  
Old 12-22-16, 08:53 AM
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69t-

Iíve used diesel many times myself. I see where you are going: diesel is not dyed red but home heating oil is.

Gee, I donít know how to tell if all air is out of the oil line. It sounds to me like that Riello procedure for two lines makes it a little bit harder to tell. But that could just be my ignorance.

I see in post #3 that the unit stays in prepurge for minutes but yet the hydraulic air shutter doesnít open. Seems like that would be enough time to purge the air from the oil line Ė but is that really true!

I know youíve seen this:

ATTENTION: It is important that the fuel line be completely sealed and free from air leaks orany internal blockages.
- but I donít see why you would have air leaks just from changing the oil filter. Or could there be a small air leak that could be causing the problem.

Iím pretty sure there is a pro around here who knows these Rielloís (at least I think so).Hope he weighs in.

p.s. just found this old thread.

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ga...-bleeding.html
 

Last edited by zoesdad; 12-22-16 at 09:33 AM. Reason: added p.s.
  #7  
Old 12-22-16, 10:37 AM
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69,
When you have a 2 line system you CANNOT bleed through the bleed port. Additions have to be made to the pump which in your case is an allen screw that goes into the return port of the pump. It is called a by-pass plug and that allows the oil to return to the tank. Without it the oil would just sit there until you opened the bleeder to remove the air. Two line setup the pump bleeds itself.

If you try to bleed through the port you are in essence creating an air leak and besides the pump never bleeding you will ruin the pump.

You must make sure all fittings are tight to be able to pull a vacuum and suck the oil from the tank. Once it fires up it should stay bled. If it doesn't you have an air leak somewhere that is letting the oil drain back into the tank and creating an air situation.

Think of your oil line as a straw filled with oil with your finger over the top of the straw. As long as your finger is there you have a vacuum and the oil will stay in. Release your finger and you break the vacuum and the oil drains out. It's the same principle with your 2 pipe system. By opening the bleeder you have taken your finger off the straw and broken the vacuum.

Another thing to consider is the amount of oil in the tank and how far down your lines go. Most times they will stop about 6" from the bottom so you still might have oil but it could be too low for the lines. Just a thought. With gravity you can use it down to the end but top tank fed you cannot.

Depending on how long a run you have you can still feed from the top and make it a single line system and eliminate the return line. If you do though you will have to remove the by-pass plug in the return port.

You can also make it a single line and install a tiger loop so it will act a 2 pipe system and is a much better set up. You can google TIGER LOOP to get the specifics if interested. Well worth the money if having air problems.

That sight I gave you also has the whole manual that you can access and is worth reading. Most of what you need you will find on pages 12 & 13 but there may be more.
 
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