Burnham ES2 error code 56?

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Old 11-01-17, 07:13 AM
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Burnham ES2 error code 56?

This morning I found my Burnham ES2 not running and showing "STA 21" and "Err 56". Those codes are not listed on the boiler or in the manual. Does anyone know what they mean?

I did a hard reset by turning off the power and the boiler came on normally when power was restored.
 
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Old 11-01-17, 08:55 AM
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Error 56

boilerfaults/errors.php?merk=6&ketel=68&storing=1779&subcode=0
 

Last edited by PJmax; 11-01-17 at 09:27 AM. Reason: repaired link
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Old 11-01-17, 09:29 AM
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Thanks for that information. Looks like a useful site that I will save a link to.

Since the boiler restarted OK I was not able to test the damper as the link directs. I will check now to see if there is a problem.
 
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Old 11-20-17, 02:00 PM
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Boiler failed to start again today with code ERR56. I followed check steps shown on BoilerFault link but had to unplug harness at first step to test voltage. Voltage is 26vac to ground. Next step says that if voltage to ground is present--replace control.

Does anyone know where or how to test voltage at P6-5 with harness connected? I suppose I could unplug the harness at the damper end and check there but it is hard to get to.

Power OFF then ON reset all and boiler fired. So I will have to watch for another failure to test again.

In the meantime I will research a replacement control. Any suggestions?
 
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Old 11-21-17, 07:01 AM
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Maybe not control but vent damper

Boiler failed on ERR56 this morning. This time I checked for voltage to ground on P6-5 at the vent harness instead of pulling the plug on P6. I got 26 vac on the bottom two terminals (4 & 3 ?) of the vent harness and no voltage to ground on the upper (1 & 2 ?) terminals. P6-5 connects to terminal 2. Then I pulled the plug from P6 and got no voltage to ground on P6-5. That indicates that the control is not the problem (today).

I noticed that the vent damper blade was slightly off vertical so I moved it to vertical (not more that a couple of degrees) and I heard the damper switch click. Still no voltage to ground on P6-5. When I replaced the T-T and DWH wires that were calling for heat, the boiler started.

This leads me to believe that the control is not the problem but the damper/damper switch is at fault.

Do I need to replace the entire damper assembly or are parts available to replace just the motor and/or damper switch?

Is it likely that both the control AND the damper switch have failed simultaneously? I'm not sure why else I would get conflicting readings on P6-5 yesterday and today. I double checked both times so I am not imagining that the readings were opposite.

BTW: I already ordered a replacement control from SupplyHouse and it is to be delivered today. Not too expensive so I can keep for spare if it turns out that the control is not the problem. About the same cost as an annual servicing that I avoid by doing my own maintenance.
 

Last edited by 2john02458; 11-21-17 at 07:03 AM. Reason: clarified "voltage to ground"
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Old 11-26-17, 10:03 AM
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I left the damper open in manual/bypass mode while I was away for 3 days and there were no errors. Now that I am back home the damper is in auto mode and I am monitoring to see if the error recurs. I did take the damper motor off and checked the operator and micro-switches. Could not see any problem there.

I tried to duplicate the problem by switching the damper from auto to manual both during start up and during shutdown. Could not get the error to occur. Even when the damper is in manual mode and closed, it opens on next call for heat and then stays open upon shutdown. Switching damper from auto to manual during shutdown, stops damper movement and then opens it again on start up.

Does anyone know how I can force an ERR56 to try and determine whether the control or the damper is at fault.

I have a new boiler control on hand if I need it.
 
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Old 12-01-17, 02:05 PM
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Opinions requested

The ERR56 has not occurred in the last week and I have not determined if one can be forced. Since it appears that the boiler control is not at fault and I will be able to bypass automatic operation of the damper to manual and allow the boiler to run if the damper faults I have the following options:

1. Replace the boiler control with the new one. Keep the old as spare.

2. Make no changes at this time and keep the new control as a spare.

3. Return the control for a credit of $143.

Your opinions are appreciated.
 
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Old 12-02-17, 10:09 AM
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2 john-

I’m not a pro nor do I have a boiler with an automatic damper. Here is a manual that actually has the error 56 (page 19):

https://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pd...51bd1f169f.pdf

20 Damper Failed Open

The damper end switch has not closed (damper end switch is open) at the beginning of
the heat cycle. An alarm message is sent but the control is not in lockout.
.....................................
21 Damper Failed Closed

The damper end switch has not opened (damper end switch is closed) at the
beginning of the heat cycle. An alarm message is sent but the control is not in lockout
..............................
I think err 20 means "Damper Failed TO Open" and err 21 means "Damper Failed TO Close". I think what they are trying to say is that when the heat cycle is starting the damper should be closed at that time and thus the end switch should be open. But if the end switch is detected closed at the beginning of the cycle then the damper is presumably stuck open, (or end switch just stuck closed?) that is, the Damper Failed TO Close (not Damper Failed Closed). At least I think that’s what they are saying (Maybe you are supposed to read it “End Switch Failed Closed” or something like that.)

Ok – I just found this on page 19 also -
.......................
Err 56 Damper Failed to Close
Atmospheric Damper End Switch failed to open (end switch contacts stuck closed).
.......................
It seems to me in post #5 you already isolated the problem to the damper. When you are stuck at Err 56 can you see whether the damper is in the closed position or open position? Maybe it just really sticks in the OPEN position (or maybe not fully closed) sometimes. Could a little manual exercise by hand loosen it up (maybe that’s impossible)?

If it were me I think I’d take a chance and return the control and buy a new damper, although I think those dampers aren’t exactly cheap. It seems you hear those dampers fail a lot (could be wrong).
 
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Old 12-03-17, 07:05 AM
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Thanks for the link to the manual. That appears to be a newer version than the original that came with the boiler. The troubleshooting section is much more detailed and contains more information about the error codes. However the terminal board layout and some of the pin assignments are different. Probably matches the new control that I have not yet opened.

I removed the damper motor assembly and found no wear on the cams or stuck switches. In fact, the problem seems to have been resolved by my giving the damper blade a slight push toward the closed position.

The entire damper assembly is not cheap but a replacement motor assembly is available for $90 at SupplyHouse.com. Having one on hand is not so critical since the damper has a switch that allows putting it in manual mode that keeps the damper open and the end switch closed allowing the boiler to operate.
 
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Old 12-03-17, 08:33 AM
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That’s good to hear!! ………………………………………………………….
 
  #11  
Old 01-24-18, 08:58 AM
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Update--Murphy's Law in reverse

"If you have the necessary parts on hand to correct the problem--it will not occur."

The problem occurred a couple of times in December so I went ahead and bought a replacement motor unit ($70 at discountplumbingoutlet.com). Before it arrived I sprayed the cam in the existing unit with dry silicone lube. I was away a couple of times during the holidays so I left the damper in "manual" mode (open) then and back on "automatic" since. The problem has not recurred after the cam was lubricated. I'll probably just keep the replacement on hand for future use.
 
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Old 01-25-18, 10:03 AM
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Wouldn't you know it! Murphy's cousin LOL. Well at least your in you shape. Good!!!!!
 
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