Circulation pump installation help

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  #1  
Old 11-29-17, 06:18 AM
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Circulation pump installation help

Can someone help with the following questions?

1. Is it OK to replace my old 1/8 hp TACO pump with the new TACO 1/25 hp (007-F5)?
2. What's the installation orientation? Arrow down or up?

The reason I did 1 is that's the only TACO pump available at my local Home depot store and the guy there told me it should be OK.

For 2, the old pump is placed horizontally which says "this arrow pointing to a wall", see pictures. I currently installed with arrow up.

Thanks for your helps

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Last edited by PJmax; 11-29-17 at 04:09 PM. Reason: reoriented and labeled picture
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  #2  
Old 11-29-17, 06:21 AM
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Sorry, the pictures need to be roated 90 degree
 
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Old 11-29-17, 06:37 AM
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1. More than likely ok. 2. Arrow should point down. There should have been a raised arrow on the old one on the bearing assembly. Also look at your other newer one , should have giving you a hint. American Standard Boiler?
 
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Old 11-29-17, 06:45 AM
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I'd agree (as if I know anything) because your system pulls water down and through the Boiler rather than pushing it up.

One caution is to NOT allow the pump to run dry, or without first filling the Boiler with water. It has ceramic bearings which are lubricated by the baseboard water, and those bearings will be damaged if run dry.
 
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Old 11-29-17, 06:50 AM
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Thanks for the quick reply. Really appreciated.

Yes, its American Standard and you are right. it should point down according to the assembly. So I installed it upside down. I will need to correct it.
 
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Old 11-29-17, 07:01 AM
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BTW, since I don;t have the shutoff valves on the pipe. What's the proper way to drain the system? Last time, I used the bleed pipe (see picture) and it took long time before it ran dry.
 
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Old 11-29-17, 07:21 AM
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Shut any valves you DO have. There is a low boiler drain near the floor but it might leak so you might as well do what you did before. You need to open a high system valve to atmosphere to drain quickly. You'll get the hang of it. Good luck.
 
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Old 11-29-17, 09:02 AM
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Just did the following
1. pull the furnace fuse
2. turn off all valves
3. drain water from the pipe (see previous picture)
4. reinstall the pump so that the arrow is pointing down now
5. turn on the valves
6. wait for about 20 minutes for the water to refill (untill the noise is gone)
7. plug back the fuse
8. Burner immediately starts
9. the pump starts running

The problem is there is no heat. After running for about 15 minutes, the water around the running pump is cold and the burner stopped.

What should I check next? Please help.
 
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Old 11-29-17, 09:36 AM
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What were the reasons for initially deciding to replace the old Taco Circulator ?
 
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Old 11-29-17, 09:47 AM
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Sounds like your air bound. Get the pressure up and bleed the system. You will loose pressure when you bleed so keep checking pressure after getting air out.
 
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Old 11-29-17, 10:01 AM
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Looking at your pictures again I see you have 3 zones. Maybe lower temp. on the newer 2 and shut off at stop and waste. Then concentrate on main zone bleeding first.
 
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Old 11-29-17, 10:10 AM
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well, the old pump was not working properly. Often will just start humming not running after heat is turned on.
 
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Old 11-29-17, 10:22 AM
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Yes,the pipe is turning hot now. I was able to bleed some air from one of the radiator upstairs. But other radiators have no air and water comming out.
 
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Old 11-29-17, 10:26 AM
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Also, the burner never come on again.
 
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Old 11-29-17, 10:38 AM
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Give it some time, once in awhile need to bleed a lot of water before air will come out. Try the other zones. Maybe bumped the stack control by accident?. Burner still might come on.
 
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Old 11-29-17, 12:23 PM
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Still the same. Only couple of radiators are slightly warm.
 
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Old 11-29-17, 12:34 PM
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What is the pressure reading on your gauge, should be around 15 or so hot. Maybe go to 22. Whats the temp. on the gauge did the burner ever come back on?
 
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Old 11-29-17, 02:45 PM
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See picture. pressure around 24 temp around 130. The burner came on once, maybe twice.

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Last edited by PJmax; 11-29-17 at 04:11 PM. Reason: reoriented picture
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Old 11-29-17, 04:09 PM
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So, what do you got for radiators? Baseboard, free standing, something in wall. Try going to first cold rad. in line and bleed a lot of water? Maybe your gauge is reading wrong. Try your other zones yet? All of them cranked at once might help. Maybe a touch more pressure with a bucket where it might dump. Might need to drain exp. tank when all the heat comes around.
 
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Old 11-29-17, 04:13 PM
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I corrected your picture orientations.
I also labeled your first picture with what looks like the boiler drain.
 
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Old 11-29-17, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by guyold View Post
So, what do you got for radiators? Baseboard, free standing, something in wall. Try going to first cold rad. in line and bleed a lot of water? Maybe your gauge is reading wrong. Try your other zones yet? All of them cranked at once might help. Maybe a touch more pressure with a bucket where it might dump. Might need to drain exp. tank when all the heat comes around.
Baseboard radiators. The hot ones have water come out when I open the bleed valves. Nothing happen for the cold ones, no air no water. These radiators are all on the first floor with riser pipes hot at the ceiling of the basement.
 
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Old 11-29-17, 04:38 PM
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Wow that's like magic Pete. Did not notice the other return pipe teeing below new circ. Could that be a gravity zone or is there another higher circulator?
 
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Old 11-29-17, 04:47 PM
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Yeah you need to get something out of the bleeders. Ether raise the pressure up and see if it dumps or bleeds air/water.Or replace bleeders.
 
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Old 11-29-17, 06:09 PM
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y,
This is just a thought. The 2 zones on the left look like add ons due to the 3/4 copper pipe compared to the original zone on the right with the larger steel pipe.

Since I don't see any valves to bleed that zone and you have bleeders on the emitters you may have a monoflo system which could be very difficult to bleed but must be bled at the individual emitters.

I'm seeing 3 pumps which means 3 zones. Maybe the new zones are loop system zones and can be bled from the basement but not the original.

To determine what you have is it possible to take pics of the piping going to the units and especially the tees that branch off to the units. All 3 zones if possible.

Another thing to check are the tees that branch off to the units and see if there are any markings on them, like directional arrows. That will mean you have a monoflo system and all the bleeding from the basement will do you NO GOOD because the water will flow right past the units without removing the air. Bleeding must be done from the air vents on the units unless the have draw offs on the individual lines in the basemant.

It could be a very tedious and long task if not set up properly.

Pics of the whole system and piping would be very helpful at this point.

Hope this helps a little.
 
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Old 11-30-17, 06:04 PM
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I was finally able to bleed the cold radiators using a wrench. The bleed holes are plugged so the way I was doing using a screw driver couldn’t get any air or water out. Using a wrench to slowly loosen the valve itself did trick. Thanks everyone.
 
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Old 12-01-17, 05:52 AM
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Now that you have the pump working fix the electrical properly. It won't be long before vibration will cut through the insulation on those wires and short out your pump - never mind the shock hazard that exists.
 
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