Hot water tank Taco cartridge circulator constantly running

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Old 12-25-17, 06:58 PM
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Hot water tank Taco cartridge circulator constantly running

Greetings, just moved into a new house with a three-zone forced hot water system (see pictures attached). The circulator for the hot water tank runs continuously (that zone is constantly calling) and the hot water coming out of the faucets is scalding. Very difficult to mix the cold/hot, since the hot is way too hot. I measured with a thermometer at the faucet and it was over 140F. I thought perhaps the thermostat on the tank was set incorrectly, but it was set at 120F. That made me think perhaps something was wrong with the thermostat or signal going to the controller, so I turned the thermostat down to indicated 110F and detected no changed in water temperature, and the zone was still continuously calling, and the circulator continuously running.

Note that the boiler seems to mainly only fire when the other two zones (first and second floors) call for heat. Most of the time the tank circulator is running the boiler is off.

Any suggestions? Was it set up by the previous owner to run this way in the heating season? Not being familiar with the electronics on these systems, is it possible to change this? Or is it a faulty thermostat? Something wrong at the control board (not sure what they're called)? Not an emergency, but any advice will be appreciated.
 
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Old 12-25-17, 07:09 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

Nice pictures! Looks like two heating zones plus the DHW loop.
Open the green Taco zone box. Each circulator is controlled by a thermostat connected to it's input. You will need to locate which zone the DHW is and see if the zone active LED is on.

A picture of the inside of the zone controller would be good.
 
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Old 12-25-17, 07:50 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I've attached a picture of the controller. In the first picture I posted you can see the hot water zone is calling. When I took the picture of the interior of the controller, the hot water zone red LED was also lit. It basically never goes off, like it's constantly calling. Zone 1 is the hot water tank.

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Last edited by PJmax; 12-25-17 at 07:59 PM. Reason: reoriented picture
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Old 12-25-17, 08:02 PM
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Ok. So what you need to do is to remove the red wire from the zone 1 TT terminals to see if zone 1 stops calling for heat.

If it does stop...... you need to reconnect it and then go to the aquastat on the storage tank and disconnect the red wire there. If the heat call stops.... the aquastat is defective.
 
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Old 12-25-17, 08:31 PM
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Did both, just as you said. Disconnect at controller, heat call stopped. Reconnected, heat call started up again. Disconnected at tank, heat call stopped. Reconnected, heat call. Are the aquastats easily replaceable? A do-it-yourself job, or does it get messy?

BTW, thanks a bunch for your assistance!
 
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Old 12-25-17, 08:34 PM
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Should be very easy to replace. The model number will be on it for a replacement.
 
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Old 12-26-17, 05:15 AM
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Hi, depending on what the model # of the aqua stat is you may be able to pull it out and clean the probe.
Just a thought
Geo
 
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Old 12-26-17, 09:16 AM
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Never having worked on a water heater tank before, is there any risk I'll wind up dumping scalding water in my basement? I have no idea how the tank is constructed, does the temp probe sit directly in the water? Any schematics or diagrams or other resources I can be pointed to?
 
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Old 12-26-17, 09:35 AM
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Pull the cover off the aquastat and post the full model number so we know what you have. The aquastat probe sits in a well that sits in the hot water. It can be changed without loosing water.
 
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Old 12-26-17, 01:53 PM
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Here are some pictures with part information. Thanks.
 
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Old 12-26-17, 02:37 PM
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Loosen set screw in this pic... A stat comes off. Simply install new a stat... ( But try cleaning the bulb and put some dielectric grease in there....)

 
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Old 12-26-17, 02:44 PM
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Thanks, I'll give that a try. If I replace the stat, what is the part number: L4080B 1360 (2)? Could you share a link to where I can purchase?

Edit: The below link shows the L4080B 1360 is obsolete. What should I order as a replacement? The Honeywell website doesn't indicate a direct replacement.
https://customer.honeywell.com/en-US...th=1.2.16.6.13
 

Last edited by bmw111; 12-26-17 at 03:11 PM.
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Old 12-26-17, 03:31 PM
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TheL4080B-1352 should be ok for your application.

Honeywell-Hi-Limit-Aquastat-L4080B-1352
 
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Old 12-26-17, 03:42 PM
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Thats a close range a stat 120-160f... and a 15f diff... that one will be expensive... Hmmmm.. let me look around...
 
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Old 12-26-17, 03:57 PM
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TheL4080B-1352 should be ok for your application.

Honeywell-Hi-Limit-Aquastat-L4080B-1352
8 f diff too close for me... Id want at least 15... But thats me...
 
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Old 12-26-17, 04:10 PM
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is that a vaughn indirect?

Just leave it disconnected unless you need hot water...
 
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Old 12-26-17, 04:20 PM
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Old 12-26-17, 06:35 PM
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When you say "Just leave it disconnected unless you need hot water..." — In a house with three kids we need hot water all the time.
So what's the recommendation, the Ranco or the Honeywell? Will I need to change any settings to the Taco controller or just plug and play?
 
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Old 12-26-17, 07:16 PM
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Just plug and play..

You can get whatever A stat you prefer... ETC even makes a digital unit...

Thing is how long do you wait...


Ummm I would leave it disconnected. Why have scalding 180f water.. Have the kids take navy showers.. That tank should last 10 showers...

( Hmmmm I guess not all are taught navy showers. I camped all my life and take my kids camping... We all can be in and out of the shower with a 6 gallon HWH, 50 gallon water supply, family of 4 in less then 10 minutes. All using less then 15 gallons of water...LOL )

If ya need hot water connect the wire for 20 minutes...
 
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Old 12-26-17, 07:38 PM
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Thanks for all the info, glad I found this site. You've all been really helpful. I'll see which unit I can get soonest.
Hey, I agree with you on the shower thing. Five minutes and I'm done. I use lukewarm water anyway. But the ladies, they try and make the bathroom a sauna. Ridiculous. I will disconnect the wire.
 
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Old 12-26-17, 07:47 PM
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Pretty sure the ETC's run on 120v which means that will be an additional wiring step.
 
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Old 12-26-17, 07:52 PM
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They have 120v 24 volt or 0-10v units I believe...
 
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Old 12-28-17, 06:13 AM
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Thanks to everyone who replied. I purchased and installed the Honeywell unit and all is well. This website is a great resource.
 
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