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# How to read burnham run/cycle time?

#1
01-05-18, 08:22 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: USA
Posts: 2
How to read burnham run/cycle time?

Hello all,

I have a Burnham ES2-5 140kbtu hot water boiler for heat and hot water. An outdoor reset card is also installed.

I have two questions:

1) With the ODR card, domestic hot water (DS_) is set to standard 180.

If the boiler high limit (HL_) is set lower than 180 - does the ODR override that when the DSH is calling or is it limited by the boilers high limit setting? I know it will limit the heat call (tt) but I wasn't sure if this affects the hot water as well.

2) How do I interpret the Run time and Cycle time data shown on the LED? I found a video on youtube that says multiply the run time by 60 to get minutes, then divide by cycles, but I think it was showing an older version of the IQ control board because when I pull up the run or cyc data on mine it sifts through 2 sets of numbers:

Run (ex: run - 2- 557 - hr) Cycles will show for example: cyc-23-336.

Could someone break those down for me and educate me on how to decipher it?

Thanks!

#2
01-06-18, 05:17 PM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,446
Received 1 Vote on 1 Post
you are right on the hot water question. The heating water temperature will change as OD temperature changes. when you get a demand for heat, if the DHW is wired to the OD reset card the boiler water temperature will be reset up to 180f when re-heating the hot water tank.
The reason you get two sets of numbers is there are only 3 digit spaces. Your supplied info would be as follows;
2557(HR's) x 60 = 153,420
153420/23336 = 6.57 minutes on average

#3
01-06-18, 08:52 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: USA
Posts: 2
Thank you ! So obvious now that I think about!

Long story short my wife and I purchased our first home 3 years ago and converted it from oil heat and hot water to gas. We have a 70k btu hooked up to the apartment for my fathers heat and the 140k for our heat and indirect hot water for the entire house.

I’m on my 5th pilot assembly as every winter when the first cold comes and i require consistent heat the big boiler doesn’t work because the flame sensor fails and I get error 63.

My plumber is at a loss and thinks the assembly are defective and can’t handle high water volume systems, but I finally read through the manual/internet etc and did realize that he had the boiler HL set to 140 which is obviously not wise since I have 4” pipes in the basement and 1.5” up to old cast iron radiators or cast iron baseboard throughout the house.

The boiler would simply be going 140-125 etc. cycling quit a bit and not even taking advantage of the odr because it was set so low. Oddly enough the house was kept “warm” but also always had the thermostat on etc.
Now I set it to 180 and we can’t belive how much warmer and even the house is. The odr now has set points based on temperature etc. I also noticed that now the boiler will run a solid 10-15 minutes when needed. It cycles so little now!I also set the pp to 8 to take advantage of all the heat in those pipes.

Do younthink thenHL being so low was causing thenassembly to wear?

#4
01-07-18, 03:51 PM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,446
Received 1 Vote on 1 Post
Don't think so. What was the flame signal before at the lower setting compared to now? Definitely a better setting allowing the ODR to do it's job.
If the problem continues replace the pilot with a Honeywell Q3451U pilot assy. It is a bit hotter. Also verify the gas pressure is and stays above 4.5" w.c. during the entire cycle.

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